Watercooling

Here is a chart I just made up with all the overclocks I'll try.

Can you tell me if this is correct so far?

overclockchart.jpg


Thanks

Neil
 
Heya, I have just switched to a laptop so I can try it out. I'll let you know when I have completed the first clock. I have put in an old HDD with XP on as well.

Thanks

Neil

UPDATE: Just clocked to 2.5! Nice and easy and I am so pleased it worked! MY FIRST OVERCLOCK!!!!! - Thanks so much for all your help!

Gonna keep going now!
 
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You should be able to get upto 3.0ghz with ease depending on how well the ram clocks and how well the case is ventilated?
 
Heya, I am still going now.

I have been increasing the FSB by 10 each time and am currently at 2880 and stable. Max Load temp is 55 degrees C so I'm quite pleased. Gonna push it up to 3ghz now.

Do you think that that temp is ok?

Also can you show me some ram which would give a noticiable difference to my pc as the V Data ram i currently have seems to be cheap stuff. What the benefit of me upgrading the ram to better stuff?

Thanks

Neil
 
:) Well done fella!!

To be honest, as long as your RAM runs fine at your overclock, which being 800mhz it should be fine up to 400FSB, I wouldn't bother changing it. You won't see much of a performance difference at all.

I'd spend the money on a better cooler, if you haven't already.

Load temps of up to about 60c I'd be comfortable with. If it went much over that, I'd be looking to cool things down a bit before I went any further.

Remember though that you won't ever stress your CPU in the real world as much as you do when stress testing...
 
So, If I wanted to take the cpu further. I won't tonight but may do sometime then are these correct:


FSB 350
DRAM Frequency 700

FSB 360
DRAM Frequency 720

Can you advise me on some coolers then? I will soon be purchasing a ZeroTherm VGA Heatpipe cooler for my graphics card:

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-002-ZT&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=787

Also if you know of any cases with excellent airflow then I would love to hear them. I love the Thermaltake Armor case but I would prefer an aluminium one. The Lian Li PC V1000+ is also a nice case but apparantly the heatpipe on the mobo won't like the inverted motherboard placement so thats a no no now!

Thanks

Neil
 
Yep, those speeds are fine.

Re coolers, I think these two are highly regarded, but the last CPU air cooler I had was the Arctic Freezer 7, so I might be out of touch!! :)

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-039-TR&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=821

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-001-SB&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=821

The folks over in the case forum will point you in the right direction of a good cooling case. I do like the Lian Li's though! Some heatpipes work 'upside down', it depends whether they are fluid filled ones or not, but I have read that the ones on your board might not work too well. You can get aftermarket motherboard cooling solutions though, if it meant you could have the case you wanted?
 
I currently have the Arctic Freezer 7 in now!

I would like a water cooling kit but the things I'm worried about with those is that

1: I spend all the money buying the water cooling stuff and get a 1 degree drop in temps!

2: What happens if I install all the water stuff and then a week later buy something else for the pc which requires the removal of a tube for something. Does that mean I have to empty the system and refill it or what?

It's these types of questions which are stopping me at the time being!

oh, minor point- Got to 3.0Ghz and all seems fine at the moment!

Thanks

Neil
 
Minor issue.

Just plugged my hard drive back in with all my data on and booted into windows (vista) and checked cpu-z and it sates that my clock speed is 2000mhz?

MY memory timings have changed to 5-6-6

my cpu multiplier has gone to 6?

Whats happened?

When I go into the bios, everythings fine and at 333 fsb and the dram frequency is as it should be!

Do I enable or diable the following:

CPU Internal Thermal Control?
Virtualization Technology?
Intel Speedstep?

Please Help

Thanks

Neil
 
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Sounds like speedstep?

With CPU-Z running, what happens when you put the CPU under load using orthos or something?

It should go back up to 9 x whatever your FSB is?
 
I havn't tried it yet as i'm sat in the bios waiting for you to respond with help :D

Erm, If it does go back up then can I leave it enabled or should i disable it?

What about the other two?

Thanks
 
Don't panic! :)

You don't need VT turned on, unless you're running a VT application of course, which I suspect you're not! Such an app would be like another operating system or similar.

I'd leave the other two turned on, I do on my system.

No point having your CPU at full chat all the time when you're just web browsing or similar. When it needs to, your CPU will switch to full speed in nano seconds, so you don't lose out performance wise.

It just helps save a bit of electricity, that's all, which is not a bad thing!

For some people, it does cause stability problems though, so you can turn it off if you're affected.
 
Ah, leave it on then!

Re the watercooling questions, idle temps might not be much lower than a good air cooler, but your load temps should be lower with water.

For me, irrespective of the performance benefits, watercooling is another thing for me to mess about with, and I enjoy it! Plus, it looks nice! :) A carefully chosen kit of components should out perform an air setup every time, although the gap isn't as big as it once was due to the more efficient thermal design of CPU's these days. Having said that, the latest generation of GPU's seem to kick out some heat, and the quad core CPU's are more of a cooling challenge, so watercooling might make more sense shortly.

A watercooling system is a closed system, so changing CPU's and/or GPU's shouldn't mean you having to drain and refill the system every time, as long as your cooling blocks are compatible with your new kit. For instance, I'm on my 3rd CPU in 5 months, and I haven't had to drain the system to change CPU's. You only need to do that if you need to change one of the blocks, the pump, or a radiator or something. Apart from that, no other components you're likely to change will need you to break the loop down, as long as the new kit fits your existing blocks. All that would be required is a clean and re-application of thermal interface material.
 
Ok, If you break the loop for any reason Ie: To add a new block in, does it have to be drained? How easy is it to drain and refill. Things like that

Thanks

Neil
 
Yes, to change blocks, you would need to drain the system.

It would depend on your exact setup, but to be honest it's pretty easy!

Just remove power to the PC, in case of spillage, and mop any spills up!

Usually, it's just a case of removing the tube from one of the barbs at the lowest part of your loop, and with the PC on the edge of a desk or something, hang the tube and barb over a bucket. A bit of rotating of the pc later, and practically everything should be in the bucket. Some folks fit an in-line tap at the low point to make this a bit easier, but that adds a bit of restriction to the loop.
 
I have now discovered that at idle my pc has a temp of about 50 degrees C so I ma in need of a new cooler I think or some water cooling. I already have an AC Freezer 7 pro in now and have also been advised to stay away from water cooling! I don;t know what to do to be honest!

thanks

neil
 
That's a bit high, yes!

Who advised you to stay away from watercooling, and did they mention why?
 
I was just told that the problems with leaks and stuff like that and that it was just not worth it. I would like to try water cooling for the "gadgety" factor and "cool" factor more than anything but I really need to find a way quickly to reduce that idle temp. Would a good watercooling kit reduce it a bit?
 
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