What causing my PC crashes?
- Thread starter Archii
- Start date
I think the thing to do here is replace the CPU. If you have tested a basic new install of Windows, ran mem tests, checked pins, tightness of CPU cooler, unplugged everything but the basics, checked device manager for rouge unknown hardware, PSU and all connections then it's going to be the CPU.
It's a bit of a bitter and expensive pill to swallow but that's what my money is on.
Overclocking is almost more dangerous these days than it used to be due to the ai and auto overclocking settings "features" on motherboards. My Z68 board with a 2600k had to be set manually due to not having these features and it is still fine running that CPU for almost 10 years now.
It's a bit of a bitter and expensive pill to swallow but that's what my money is on.
Overclocking is almost more dangerous these days than it used to be due to the ai and auto overclocking settings "features" on motherboards. My Z68 board with a 2600k had to be set manually due to not having these features and it is still fine running that CPU for almost 10 years now.
hopefully they can sort it out, just mention that you think the cooler may be too tight or that the cpu may have debris on the gold pins and the only way to know for sure it to take the chip out and check, if they do the above and your pc still isnt working then as me and @azazl187 said the cpu is most likley damaged and a new one will be required
Yeah will do.
I slackened off the cooler earlier and it still crashes. On the phone they seemed to think it's the mobo.. we'll see I guess!
i very much doubt the boad is at fault given we rolled back the bios and the issue is still there, sure if the bios roll back happened and then the pc 100% didnt post then thats a bricked board for sure and then a new one will be needed, but it didnt, the issue was the ram would not go any faster than 2133mhz and that relates to the cpu, the imc (intregtaed memory controller) was moved off the board and placed on the cpu way back in the 4/5th gen intel chips and even earlier on amd.
just be careful and dont get phobbed off, if they offer the same board again sure go ahead and see if it works but if you get the same problem on the new board 100% its the cpu at fault nothing else.
keep us updated, and just be careful
Yep I will report back with my findings in a few days time. They need a few days for diagnosis apparently.
They're very highly rated so we'll see. Fingers crossed
Update:
Pc shop has done their diagnosis and found:
CPU is faulty, needs to be returned to Intel under warranty for a replacement.
PSU connector is melted and damaged?? How??
SSD (with my OS on it) is also damaged so won't allow the pc to boot properly.
So I need to replace all of these! There goes my monthly budget..
Pc shop has done their diagnosis and found:
CPU is faulty, needs to be returned to Intel under warranty for a replacement.
PSU connector is melted and damaged?? How??
SSD (with my OS on it) is also damaged so won't allow the pc to boot properly.
So I need to replace all of these! There goes my monthly budget..
I had a similar thing with a psu and the extra 8 pin power cable, the mobo drew too much power for it and melted the plastic around the connection on an extension cable. Lesson learned, new psu, no cheap extension cable for my overclocked cpu. But I'm surprised you didn't spot the melted psu connector.
Try a reformat and a disk checking software to see if the ssd is recoverable.
At least the cpu is under warranty, and your gpu is safe
Try a reformat and a disk checking software to see if the ssd is recoverable.
At least the cpu is under warranty, and your gpu is safe
Speaking to the guy who built my pc for me (the PSU is 2nd hand), the melted connector isnt actually used, so should be ok.
The SSD is physically broken due to an installation error. I'll ask them to attempt to recover the contents, but I didn't have anything important on it, just some video games that's all. So I'm not fussed about recovering it. I've got my windows key saved separately and it's linked to my account too.
Just sucks that I got a duff CPU
nearly had a heart attack when you said about the psu cable being melted, but as its a connector not used thats better than using it, but yeah get that unit changed just to be safe, good to see the cpu has been found to be the problem, you never know that and the psu may have caused damage to the ssd as you mentioned it also was found to be miss behaving.
you going for a straight swap cpu wise, plus what are the company offering as a replacemnt psu and ssd?
Yeah I'll change the PSU just to be safe! Could you recommend one that would suit my system? I'm thinking 800w?
They haven't offered me a replacement just yet, they're going to provide me a quote later today.
I'm thinking of just replacing the SSD with the same WD black 1Tb
all depends what gpu your rocking and if you are going to have a look into overclocking the cpu and gpu?, but something in the 800-850w region will serve you well, personally look for corsair or seasonic they would be my picks but other may add
I'd like scope to upgrade to a 3080 / 3080Ti in the future, so a PSU to match that. At the moment I have a 3070.
Yes, I would like to overclock both CPU and GPU.
Should it be gold rated or anything else?
ah right with regard to the atx rating yes minimum would be gold and if you can go to platinum or titanium but be warned going past gold to the next tiers will get very expensive, i've had a look on ocuk and found a couple of units for you to have a look at
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cors...fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ca-267-cs.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/seas...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-07d-ss.html
the problem you'll have is price, as mining is still taking up supply of 800w+ psu's so the price unfortunatly is inflated, but with any high end pc the psu is a critical component so its 100% worth to spend a bit more on a decent unit that will last.
as long as you dont push overclocks too hard the above units will be ok
ah right with regard to the atx rating yes minimum would be gold and if you can go to platinum or titanium but be warned going past gold to the next tiers will get very expensive, i've had a look on ocuk and found a couple of units for you to have a look at
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cors...fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ca-267-cs.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/seas...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-07d-ss.html
the problem you'll have is price, as mining is still taking up supply of 800w+ psu's so the price unfortunatly is inflated, but with any high end pc the psu is a critical component so its 100% worth to spend a bit more on a decent unit that will last.
as long as you dont push overclocks too hard the above units will be ok
Understood, thank you
I will also see what the shop recommends tooUnderstood, thank you
oh lastly with regard to the ssd, definatly get a replacment as your boot drive, just to keep the pc and windows snappy
, (m.2 ideally)oh lastly with regard to the ssd, definatly get a replacment as your boot drive, just to keep the pc and windows snappy
Yep, I intend to get the same again, WD black 1Tb m.2
Update:
CPU
After the PC shop confirmed that my CPU is faulty, I have requested an RMA with Intel. I will update again once I get an answer from them.
Others
I have ordered a new SSD for my OS and a new PSU:
SSD: WD black 1tb sn750
PSU: cooler master 850w gold plus
Pc will live with the PC shop until the parts come in and I get the replacement CPU from Intel fingers crossed!!
In the meantime, I have posted a new thread in the Case section of the forum asking about UV light strips to work with my EK mystic fog coolant. If anyone can help offer advice that'd be great
CPU
After the PC shop confirmed that my CPU is faulty, I have requested an RMA with Intel. I will update again once I get an answer from them.
Others
I have ordered a new SSD for my OS and a new PSU:
SSD: WD black 1tb sn750
PSU: cooler master 850w gold plus
Pc will live with the PC shop until the parts come in and I get the replacement CPU from Intel fingers crossed!!
In the meantime, I have posted a new thread in the Case section of the forum asking about UV light strips to work with my EK mystic fog coolant. If anyone can help offer advice that'd be great
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