What "man jobs" have you done today?

Thanks - that's similar to the gold one I used - great once there.was a hole but wouldn't fancy starting off with that - there would be striations all over the wall lol

Try a piece of ply or osb with the same size hole as a template.
 
I’ve not got anything like that unfortunately.

It’s probably like 55mm long by 20mm wide. It’s just to fit around some cupboards.

If you have a jigsaw you can also get blades to cut tile. You only need to cut the 20mm bit and use the tile snapper on the longer side.
 
Thanks - that's similar to the gold one I used - great once there.was a hole but wouldn't fancy starting off with that - there would be striations all over the wall lol

I use diamond tipped bits fairly often, purchasing a drill guide makes life loads easier.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-guide/84524

Otherwise the easiest way to start off with one is by marking the hole up with masking tape and starting to drill at a 45° angle. Once the bit has started to make an impression in the tile then straighten it up and you're good to go
 
Thanks all

Totting I probably have 12 much smaller holes to drill in total maximum so will see what / if I need to buy extra - cheers
 
Incoming man job for the weekend - put this up

IMG-20210202-114444-01.jpg
 
Does anyone have tips for cutting boards straight? I've got a jigsaw or circular saw at my disposal, but feel like cutting by hand 2.4m will not be straight at all. Dumb question, can a sliding mitre saw cut things sideways (turn the saw 90 degrees from usual position) and you slide the board through?
 
Does anyone have tips for cutting boards straight? I've got a jigsaw or circular saw at my disposal, but feel like cutting by hand 2.4m will not be straight at all. Dumb question, can a sliding mitre saw cut things sideways (turn the saw 90 degrees from usual position) and you slide the board through?
My circular saw has a spacer bar. You set the board up with a clamped batten/straight edge offset to one side of the cut line and use the guide to follow that edge so your cut stays straight. NB to position all your support tables/trestles etc to be out of the way of the blade when goes through the sheet!

I've also done long cuts with a jigsaw. Getting the setting right for the material in terms of speed and any rocking motion (as well as using the right type of blade!) will help. Draw a pencil line the whole way and follow it methodically without rushing and with practice you can get good clean straight edges from your cut. It's a lot easier in thicker board than thinner (<6mm) stuff which starts to try and bounce/flex a bit too much and where a circular saw does better IMO.
 
My circular saw has a spacer bar. You set the board up with a clamped batten/straight edge offset to one side of the cut line and use the guide to follow that edge so your cut stays straight. NB to position all your support tables/trestles etc to be out of the way of the blade when goes through the sheet!

I've also done long cuts with a jigsaw. Getting the setting right for the material in terms of speed and any rocking motion (as well as using the right type of blade!) will help. Draw a pencil line the whole way and follow it methodically without rushing and with practice you can get good clean straight edges from your cut. It's a lot easier in thicker board than thinner (<6mm) stuff which starts to try and bounce/flex a bit too much and where a circular saw does better IMO.

Circular looks like the best bet without using something industrial. I was just looking at table saws but they seem to be for small planks, I want to cut strips off boards 2.4mx1.2m. I've used a jigsaw for smaller bits but precision hasn't been a priority before.
 
Does anyone have tips for cutting boards straight? I've got a jigsaw or circular saw at my disposal, but feel like cutting by hand 2.4m will not be straight at all. Dumb question, can a sliding mitre saw cut things sideways (turn the saw 90 degrees from usual position) and you slide the board through?

Mark a cut line on the wood, measure the edge of saw to the blade width and draw a line that distance from the first marked line, clamp a straight edge along this line and saw away. Perfect straight cuts.
 
If it's just one or two sheets you need cutting down consider getting it precut by the supplier. Most will do this for you quite happily and they have the big rigs that will do it very accurately.
 
Or check if the saw is compatible with a purpose built track and get the track for it.

I have used my plunge saw loads for this kind of job, the track systems make them super accurate.
 
Incoming man job for the weekend - put this up

IMG-20210202-114444-01.jpg

We put up a Keter shed last weekend, was pretty easy, just make sure you have a cordless drill/screwdriver, there's LOTS of screws and it would have been a nightmare doing them all by hand.
 
Does anyone have tips for cutting boards straight? I've got a jigsaw or circular saw at my disposal, but feel like cutting by hand 2.4m will not be straight at all. Dumb question, can a sliding mitre saw cut things sideways (turn the saw 90 degrees from usual position) and you slide the board through?
As others have said, clamp a spare bit of wood on as a guide.
 
We put up a Keter shed last weekend, was pretty easy, just make sure you have a cordless drill/screwdriver, there's LOTS of screws and it would have been a nightmare doing them all by hand.

Yeah, cheers, I did read that in the reviews :)

Will make sure both batteries are fully charged :D
 
Put a few frames up

IMG-20210206-112650.jpg


IMG-20210206-112639.jpg


New fixing in place for the new Fiskars and two new fixings to straighten up the DeWalt case :D

IMG-20210206-114942.jpg


Then outside to put up the shed in a bag

Started off with the plastic grid base to raise it up a bit. Although it's composite we.do still bet some standing water there. Will also allow me to move the whole thing relatively easily until we are happy with the postion and orientation. Will fix the whole thing down once we settle on final location.

Shed base on top

IMG-20210206-132640.jpg


Sides and back up

IMG-20210207-145129.jpg


"Gables"

IMG-20210207-151720.jpg


Roof

IMG-20210207-154057.jpg


Door and window

IMG-20210207-162823.jpg


And done !

IMG-20210207-162831.jpg


IMG-20210207-162845.jpg
 
Put a few frames up

IMG-20210206-112650.jpg


IMG-20210206-112639.jpg


New fixing in place for the new Fiskars and two new fixings to straighten up the DeWalt case :D

IMG-20210206-114942.jpg


Then outside to put up the shed in a bag

Started off with the plastic grid base to raise it up a bit. Although it's composite we.do still bet some standing water there. Will also allow me to move the whole thing relatively easily until we are happy with the postion and orientation. Will fix the whole thing down once we settle on final location.

Shed base on top

IMG-20210206-132640.jpg


Sides and back up

IMG-20210207-145129.jpg


"Gables"

IMG-20210207-151720.jpg


Roof

IMG-20210207-154057.jpg


Door and window

IMG-20210207-162823.jpg


And done !

IMG-20210207-162831.jpg


IMG-20210207-162845.jpg
Looks nice, after all the issues I've had I wish I didn't have a wooden shed. Not to mention the time spent painting the bloody thin. Also the case looks good:D.
 
Thanks :) I was torn but every other wooden she's I've had has has to have a lot of ongoing maintenance with it. In fact this is to move the essentials from a large (2.5 x 3m) shed in the back garden which is close to complete collapse. Then gonna extend the base and get a gazebo installed instead.

The case was, by far, the most pleasing job of the day :D
 
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