I used sika fastfix which is really easy, wet the slabs, sweep it in, compact it and done. I've not worked with sand and cement before so this seemed like the easiest way for a small area like I had.
Please tell me you got a serious discount on that if you've only just bought it looks like someone could literally just pull the wall down to get in.Went up to the new house to investigate the exterior walls which appear to have separated from the house a bit... These are timber cross walls between the main brick walls that separate properties. It appears to be that the full length PVC windows were bolted to the brick and the wooden beams hung off those. This means that the walls above and below the window are only as wide as the PVC frames, about 10cm thick
It seems that when the windows were replaced, no reinforcement was done so the timber and/or window frames were able to sag away from the house. We'll be building stud frames, bolting those to the floor/brick walls, then bolting the saggy walls onto that frame. This way we can add ~10cm insulation and replaster. Then bolt the windows to the brick too, as whoever fitted this floor's windows didn't bother.
The existing walls appear to be 7cm air gap, then about 2cm of rockwool insulation (seriously, one inch!). Then literally felt and exterior wall tiles. Bonkers. On one floor you can actually push the walls and they flex outwards at floor and waist level.
Exterior view of house construction and wall tiles:
Window and lower wall coming adrift 2cm. This needs pulling back in with a rope I think:
Upper wall above a window - note air gap between timber and window in third pic, and timber not fixed to walls or ceiling! And also the big hole where we can fit 75mm extra insulation...
Bonus pic: Look how clean the under floor cavity is! Looking forward to running LOTS of mains, network and RF cable without cleaning 120 years' worth of fluff, debris and mouse skeletons. Right now each room has a single mains outlet.
You know how it is - we had 2x 25 minute viewings and that was it to investigate. We had a level 3 survey which flagged up the cracks but that's it I think.
I'm just thinking with cracks that big, there must have been something there when it was surveyed. Is there any ground supports to the fascia then, or is it just the windows that hold it?You know how it is - we had 2x 25 minute viewings and that was it to investigate. We had a level 3 survey which flagged up the cracks but that's it I think.
At the end of the day this is how these houses were built, I expect most of the neighbours have the same issue. you can see a lot of other walls in the row are off-kilter. It's only going to cost maybe £500 to fix it and then we will have peace of mind it's rock solid because we've done it ourselves. Plus added insulation at the same time.
I am going to read over the contract and survey again now you've said that though
I assumed he had missed a zero or two off the end at first but evidently not.
Dude wtf that looks seriously bad - and certainly not £500 worth of work?!
Unless he has his own scaffold…..or building company and only paying for materials
This is EXCELLENT
Someone explain why I need scaffolding? Nothing needs doing to the exterior (unless something changes...). Happy to have things pointed out that I've overlooked, obviously.
Step 1: Remove all plasterboard to expose the rest of the timber frame.
Step 2: Pull carpet back and construct/fix stud wall along original wall line (thus extending the wall thickness inwards).
Step 3: Remove window panes and pull the frame inwards and onto the new stud frame. Fix together, reinforce into brick where possible, etc etc. Bolt through the window frame into the brick also.
Step 4: Fit a PVC sill under the window and foam board / plaster board / plaster / paint.
Ok spelling it out, it could add up a bit but I don't think 12m of 2x4 and a sheet of Kingspan will run me over a few hundred. Bag of plaster. Plastering tools also but those are an investment.
Full disclosure I'm already a couple hundred down buying a chopsaw and multitool but again... Tools that I'll keep and use.
The thing is, these walls were never that solidly built so I'll be increasing both strength and insulation quality. I read through the survey, they acknowledged that timber frame might have issues in general i.e. dry rot/wet rot, but didn't link it to the cracks directly. TBF now I've poked around the house some more, that survey missed a few things.
I have considered the "What if you want to actually improve the existing build" angle. The thing is, it will just make you stand out as the single house that's done a ****load of work. Given it's all continuous rows like this, even cleaning the tiles would look odd.
Don't know too hard though or the windows will fall put
(sorry). I Agree, trying to do it internally, even if you're thinking of leaning out a window (please dont) is going to be hard, unless it's ground floor of course.
(oooh matron!) The barrier membrane that is 
Literally! On the middle floor it hasn't shifted because the windows WERE bolted in properly - but the centre (4m wide wall) flexesDon't know too hard though or the windows will fall put
I hope you got a mega discount post survey? Would they even mortgage it?Literally! On the middle floor it hasn't shifted because the windows WERE bolted in properly - but the centre (4m wide wall) flexes
Went up to the new house to investigate the exterior walls which appear to have separated from the house a bit... These are timber cross walls between the main brick walls that separate properties. It appears to be that the full length PVC windows were bolted to the brick and the wooden beams hung off those. This means that the walls above and below the window are only as wide as the PVC frames, about 10cm thick
It seems that when the windows were replaced, no reinforcement was done so the timber and/or window frames were able to sag away from the house. We'll be building stud frames, bolting those to the floor/brick walls, then bolting the saggy walls onto that frame. This way we can add ~10cm insulation and replaster. Then bolt the windows to the brick too, as whoever fitted this floor's windows didn't bother.
The existing walls appear to be 7cm air gap, then about 2cm of rockwool insulation (seriously, one inch!). Then literally felt and exterior wall tiles. Bonkers. On one floor you can actually push the walls and they flex outwards at floor and waist level.
Exterior view of house construction and wall tiles:
Window and lower wall coming adrift 2cm. This needs pulling back in with a rope I think:
Upper wall above a window - note air gap between timber and window in third pic, and timber not fixed to walls or ceiling! And also the big hole where we can fit 75mm extra insulation...
Bonus pic: Look how clean the under floor cavity is! Looking forward to running LOTS of mains, network and RF cable without cleaning 120 years' worth of fluff, debris and mouse skeletons. Right now each room has a single mains outlet.
