What "man jobs" have you done today?

dLockers said:
You reckon? The thing is they just disintegrate when you pull them up... Even after cutting the tongue. And then I'm going to be doing 2 screws per joist per plank...

I am covering it in proper hardwood stuff. Maybe I'll use the hallway as an experiment as the boards there are absolutely battered.
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Only going off your pics but they look pretty solid from what I can see so surprised at that, unless they are rotten? I wouldn't have thought you need to take them all up(I assume you are insulating) so would actually save you work as opposed to replacing all of it with chipboard.

Just from a maintenance point of view in the future, say you need to access a leaking pipe or whatever...much easier to take a couple of planks up than struggle with chipboard that's been screwed and glued down.
 
gingergundog said:
Only going off your pics but they look pretty solid from what I can see so surprised at that, unless they are rotten? I wouldn't have thought you need to take them all up(I assume you are insulating) so would actually save you work as opposed to replacing all of it with chipboard.

Just from a maintenance point of view in the future, say you need to access a leaking pipe or whatever...much easier to take a couple of planks up than struggle with chipboard that's been screwed and glued down.
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They are super solid, but super dry and very brittle. I don't see how I'd whack PIR down without lifting them all/the vast majority?

I'll use the hall as a bit of an experiment. The ones that did come up certainly "exploded" under the force of coming up.
 
dLockers said:
They are super solid, but super dry and very brittle. I don't see how I'd whack PIR down without lifting them all/the vast majority?

I'll use the hall as a bit of an experiment. The ones that did come up certainly "exploded" under the force of coming up.
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For some reason I thought you were using rockwool. Sounds like the boards may have a bit dry rot if they are like that, might be worth spraying the joists when you have them up.
 
No spray. No lay !

As for screws. Floor boards need a non threaded part so the board clamps to the joist. Personally don’t understand the benefit of the spax with the double thread over a plain shanked decent screw
 
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Hallway / kitchen door handle was "sticking" so dismantled it

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Gave everything a bit of a clean and spray of WD40

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Back on and smooth as butter !

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We are having another log burner installed at the end of the month, in the kitchen, right here ....

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So took the TV and mini trunking down

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Need to fill / touch up the holes and remove / wago and seal up that double socket too ....
 
Was popping out for Polyfiller and got sidetracked

Decided to process the remainder of the softwood off cuts

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Should be enough kindling to see us through to the end of the season, even with two burners :D


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Buffman said:
What you doing here? Getting rid of it? Or putting a new faceplate on?
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Effectively getting rid.

We are having a log burner installed in that corner so.non combustible brick slip panels being installed and they need to be flush against the wall
 
@{SAS}TB Presume you're just going to fill over that socket, which is a really bad idea. Some time in the future, after you've moved for whatever reason someone may just come and knock a nail into those cables as they'd have no idea they are there.
 
{SAS}TB said:
Effectively getting rid.

We are having a log burner installed in that corner so.non combustible brick slip panels being installed and they need to be flush against the wall
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Fair enough. I believe its a faux pas to box in live cables for the reason previously mentioned but at least you will know they're there and rcd protected. I will be doing similar with one redundant socket in my kitchen


FYI for your door handles I'd recommend silicone lubricant (wd40 do one) rather than normal wd40.
 
^ truth, on both counts.

Technically the term is "maintenance free", Wagos need to be in a box I think.

Not a giant issue I imagine, until you want to pull those cables for a rewire :)
 
Barrow'd 1T of very wet sand from driveway in to the garden. The builders over-ordered months ago and didn't leave it covered. It was delivered and left in the most stupid place, just a few meters backwards would have meant the drive could have still be used. Emptied the bag enough to drag it 15 meters in to the back garden and then refilled it.

Also shorted the larder cabinet I'm making for the kitchen, originally 220cm tall the design has now been changed by SWMBO. Now just under 200cm tall with another set of small cupboards planned for the top.

The supplier wouldn't make a single unit wider than 1 meter and we are limited on space, so making it (one of two cabinets 1 larder and 1 for the fridge/washing machine) myself saves extra widths of 'in-frame' and also a bit of labour, as I'm free...

Then put the back in made from T&G boards bought from Wickes that I trimmed the tongues off as they were a bit ****. Butted them up and then tacked in place. A few gaps should close up once they're stained and swell.

Still got the in-frame front to make and attach, shelves to add in and then of course the doors to make and hang :o

(Yes that is a 6ft Santa on the left).

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Ron-ski said:
@{SAS}TB Presume you're just going to fill over that socket, which is a really bad idea. Some time in the future, after you've moved for whatever reason someone may just come and knock a nail into those cables as they'd have no idea they are there.
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It's going to be behind a brick slip panel, so no chance of anyone hitting a nail through it. If they remove the panel, they will see the infill.

Any cable runs are in trunking and attached to the RCD.

If (and it's a huge if) we ever move we can tell the purchasers :D

200sols said:
Backbox should still be earthed really.
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Cheers, assuming I can loop out the wago into the earth block on the back box?

Buffman said:
Fair enough. I believe its a faux pas to box in live cables for the reason previously mentioned but at least you will know they're there and rcd protected. I will be doing similar with one redundant socket in my kitchen


FYI for your door handles I'd recommend silicone lubricant (wd40 do one) rather than normal wd40.
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Not really sure what else I can practically do ?

Cheers for the tip in the silicone lubricant - I actually have some but the WD40 was closer and appears to have done the trick :D
 
Started another project... RIP

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1930s Semi Refurb - Part 8 of ... (Edition: Hall, Stairs and Landing)

Hi folks, Me again. Priorities have shifted around a bit as we debate Part 7 (knocking the wall through into the living room). So focus has shifted to making a nice entrance way, as the new doors have been ordered (5-6 weeks they reckon). I've had to take up some of the boards for the...
forums.overclockers.co.uk forums.overclockers.co.uk
 
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