What "man jobs" have you done today?

Second question - is 18mm chipboard good enough to replace floorboards? Sick of these 1930s T&G things that get destroyed on the way up. I need a bunch for the loft anyway, so thinking I can get a load of these and have a much nicer draught proof floor/perfectly level surface for the new sub-floor?

 
Second question - is 18mm chipboard good enough to replace floorboards? Sick of these 1930s T&G things that get destroyed on the way up. I need a bunch for the loft anyway, so thinking I can get a load of these and have a much nicer draught proof floor/perfectly level surface for the new sub-floor?

That basically is classed as floorboard these days isn't it?
 
Second question - is 18mm chipboard good enough to replace floorboards? Sick of these 1930s T&G things that get destroyed on the way up. I need a bunch for the loft anyway, so thinking I can get a load of these and have a much nicer draught proof floor/perfectly level surface for the new sub-floor?


Boards in my O/H's semi were 22mm.

We've actually had to use 12mm ply to correct the floor level, though there will be 14mm engineered hardwood flooring on top so should be plenty strong enough.

18mm should really be the minimum thickness though without adding extra joists or noggins to avoid any flex.
 
Boards in my O/H's semi were 22mm.

We've actually had to use 12mm ply to correct the floor level, though there will be 14mm engineered hardwood flooring on top so should be plenty strong enough.

18mm should really be the minimum thickness though without adding extra joists or noggins to avoid any flex.
Yeah ultimately it'll be 18mm+14mm or whatever hardwood floor. The joists are at ~300 centres.
 
I'm unsure whether OSB/plywood would be better for something with reasonable foot traffic though having said that new builds use similar to what you've linked on first floors and just have underlay and carpet on top so it'll probably be absolutely fine, especially with a laminate or hardwood over the top.
 
Chaps,

How would one tackle this bannister/stair case? It'll be painted either white or some other colour. Currently it has about 50 layers of varnish.

i9dEuFr.jpg
As others have said, assuming the varnish is sound and not already peeling key into it with sanding ( I have just done a job like this and those foam sponge sanding blocks are good for this ). Then use Zinsser bulls eye plus primer, this stuff is awesome and won't peel off. Then paint.
 
Is stuff like nitromoors no good for stripping? Pretty sure I used it successfully many moons ago.

**** sanding all that by hand.
 
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Is stuff like nitromoors no good for stripping? Pretty sure I used it successfully many moons ago.

**** sanding all that by hand.
I hate that stuff more than sanding I think. Smell, gets everywhere, hard to sanitise the area for painting again.

Consensus has been to give it a quick lick with sand paper and then use Zinsser 123 anyway, so I'm not going to be sanding loads and loads.

Main job for tomorrow:
Knock down stair cupboard
Take up stair carpet
Remove skirting board
Sand staircase
Lift existing boards
Lay PIR between joists

I'll relay new 18mm chipboard at whichever point Wickes deliver it :D
 
I hate that stuff more than sanding I think. Smell, gets everywhere, hard to sanitise the area for painting again.

Consensus has been to give it a quick lick with sand paper and then use Zinsser 123 anyway, so I'm not going to be sanding loads and loads.

Main job for tomorrow:
Knock down stair cupboard
Take up stair carpet
Remove skirting board
Sand staircase
Lift existing boards
Lay PIR between joists
Visit sigma to help with unfinished DIY projects

Thanks m8
 
Second question - is 18mm chipboard good enough to replace floorboards? Sick of these 1930s T&G things that get destroyed on the way up. I need a bunch for the loft anyway, so thinking I can get a load of these and have a much nicer draught proof floor/perfectly level surface for the new sub-floor?

You would be better off keeping your original flooring, chipboard is pony in comparison. If your swearing at taking up the boards now just wait until you have to take up chipboard, or it gets wet and turns into weetabix. Those original boards are easy to take up, just need to cut all the way along the t&g.
 
You would be better off keeping your original flooring, chipboard is pony in comparison. If your swearing at taking up the boards now just wait until you have to take up chipboard, or it gets wet and turns into weetabix. Those original boards are easy to take up, just need to cut all the way along the t&g.
You reckon? The thing is they just disintegrate when you pull them up... Even after cutting the tongue. And then I'm going to be doing 2 screws per joist per plank...

I am covering it in proper hardwood stuff. Maybe I'll use the hallway as an experiment as the boards there are absolutely battered.
 
You reckon? The thing is they just disintegrate when you pull them up... Even after cutting the tongue. And then I'm going to be doing 2 screws per joist per plank...

I am covering it in proper hardwood stuff. Maybe I'll use the hallway as an experiment as the boards there are absolutely battered.
Let me know how you go with this as our landing floor boards sound nackered under the carpet so been thinking about changing them with some solid ply/board. I would overboard them but the landing carpet is already a lot higher than the bedroom's laminate floors at the thresholds. Going even higher would be a real pain the bum.
 
Would you chaps use either of these screws for 18mm T&G?


 
Painted the dart backboard black

IMG20230106185834.jpg
 
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Would you chaps use either of these screws for 18mm T&G?



Id use these spax flooring screws for both floorboards and chipboard or any sheet flooring

Personally I tried to reuse floorboards where possible on my hallways /bedrooms and only used sheet flooring where necessary eg example below due to pipework


Example floor https://imgur.com/a/LrugfoY


What's the consensus on primers, chaps?

Zinsser 123 Bulls Eye or the B.I.N stuff?
You've reminded me ive got some BIN. I'm going to use it on my staircase. It seems quite good (I've used it briefly on another job on bleeding knots on wood) only thing to note is its very watery.
 
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