What "man jobs" have you done today?

Buffman said:
Whats the advantage of a forstner bit over conventional?

Ideally I want 15.5 mm but couldn't find many that size. Also as the handrail will be at an angle and I want to drill directly upwards I'm not sure if that would cause an issue (or if that lends towards using a certain type of bit)
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Forstner has proper flat bottoms so is good for holes that stop in the wood, for precise depth. Also generall cleaner sides as they're cylindrical and not fluted. But, not easy to drill at an angle. Might be worth making up a jig depending on how precise you can be.

A ⅝" bit is 15.875mm but might not be worth it for just .125mm

Edit: if you have a drill press and can fit the rail in diagonally and clamp it, that could work?
 
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"Finished" (is it ever?) Off the dart board

IMG20230112164633-01.jpg


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Obvs need some cable management on the light ring :D
 
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Buffman said:
Does anyone know a good 15mm wood drill bit for cutting clean holes into handrails not fully through. I'm fitting new spindles into my existing handrail

92gbhL8.jpeg


I wasn't sure if "speed cut" would bore through it too quick? Also slightly difficult is I want/need to get the accuracy Bob on
www.toolstation.com

Bosch Expert Self Cut Speed Wood Drill Bit

For high-speed drilling into wood, look no further than the Bosch EXPERT Self Cut Speed drill bit. Designed using Bosch Tip Technology, it drills up to three times faster than a standard spade bit.A self-feeding thread ensures quick and effortless drilling in hard or softwood, plasterboard and...
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com


Used these before so thinking about this
Bosch Professional Brad Point Drill Bit (for Wood, Ø 15 x 100 x 160 mm, Accessories Rotary Drills) https://amzn.eu/d/0VmvfO1

Im getting these base rails and spindles but I'm going to keep the existing handrail (as it seems a difficult part to replace. The post is too low to be building regs compliant, and seems solidly tenonned in and also twisted over time in 1940s house)
www.blueprintjoinery.com

Oak Base Rail for Black Iron Staircase Spindles

Refurbish your staircase with the contemporary black iron round spindles from Blueprint Joinery
www.blueprintjoinery.com www.blueprintjoinery.com
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Whatever you do don't use the Bosch expert on Oak, amazing first fix bits but will chew Oak to bits.
I had great results cutting 200 12mm holes in oak for my stairs with the Dewalt expert bits


Couldn't see them quickly but I bought the specific sizes individually and were only a couple of quid.


These are really handy as well, price is quite high at the moment normally around £15-£16.
 
LuckyBenski said:
Forstner has proper flat bottoms so is good for holes that stop in the wood, for precise depth. Also generall cleaner sides as they're cylindrical and not fluted. But, not easy to drill at an angle. Might be worth making up a jig depending on how precise you can be.

A ⅝" bit is 15.875mm but might not be worth it for just .125mm

Edit: if you have a drill press and can fit the rail in diagonally and clamp it, that could work?
Click to expand...

JRJ said:
Whatever you do don't use the Bosch expert on Oak, amazing first fix bits but will chew Oak to bits.
I had great results cutting 200 12mm holes in oak for my stairs with the Dewalt expert bits


Couldn't see them quickly but I bought the specific sizes individually and were only a couple of quid.


These are really handy as well, price is quite high at the moment normally around £15-£16.
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Hmmm what about these? (or similar from dewalt etc?) A quick Google indicated that tri cut bits are good at an angle.

Id get a forstner bit but it's the angle that would probably be an issue.


www.toolstation.com

Irwin Blue Groove Wood Drill Bit

Suitable for natural hard and soft wood, chipboard and other man-made materials.Wood boring bits offering 6 x faster drilling penetration than standard flat wood bits.Fully heat treated for extra durability. Quick change 1/4" Shank.
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com
 
dLockers said:
What is the latest thought leadership on wallpaper stripping chaps?

I asked the silly question to YouTube as I am desperate not to damage the plaster, and was surprised to learn about chemical wallpaper stripping which looks pretty epic. Worst case, I'll revert to a steamer.

What do you lot use?
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Steamer, don't attach the hose, leave it to fill the room for half an hour - works great on woodchip!
 
b0rn2sk8 said:
Why do you need the holes?

Normally spindles are just held in by the strip wood and a bit of wood glue.
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They need to be bored around 50mm "up" to allow setting /fixing them in the wood and glued. If you put it only in 11mm stripwood it wouldn't be very robust
 
Ah, I hadn’t twigged you want to use metal spindles/rods. I’ve done a banister recently and used wood spindles which is why I was confused.

To be honest, this looks like a nightmare job to do without a jig to get the angle right. But any standard 15mm spade bit should be fine, it looks like you are just drilling into pine.

To be perfectly honest, I’d cut out the existing posts and replace them with a new one so you can use the appropriate hight posts and pre-drilled handrails.

Cutting out the posts is easy and you should be able to get a transition piece to hide the join between there the existing post ends and the replacement starts from your supplier.

The new post will have a dowel built into to insert into a hole you drill into the sump of the existing post where you have cut it off.
 
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@b0rn2sk8 Aye ive seen you can put new posts on, but to be honest the height of existing is fine and I only need to drill about 20 holes at an angle (the other 15 will be on the flush handrail). Plus it removing posts takes it beyond the realms of comfortable DIY for me (I'd like sections done in a day so my dog can't fall in! ).

I was going to set up the base rail then get a laser to identify positions of the upper side of the spindles and go from there.
 
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Buffman said:
@b0rn2sk8 Aye ive seen you can put new posts on, but to be honest the height of existing is fine and I only need to drill about 20 holes at an angle (the other 15 will be on the flush handrail). Plus it removing posts takes it beyond the realms of comfortable DIY for me (I'd like sections done in a day so my dog can't fall in! ).

I was going to set up the base rail then get a laser to identify positions of the upper side of the spindles and go from there.
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It’s a lot easier than it sounds, I’m not a trader and I have only done it once. I was very hesitant at first but once the saw came out, it was fine.

To install new hand rails you can get brackets that clamp it all together so you don’t even need to attempt to put tennons in them. Very little skill is actually needed.
 
b0rn2sk8 said:
It’s a lot easier than it sounds, I’m not a trader and I have only done it once. I was very hesitant at first but once the saw came out, it was fine.

To install new hand rails you can get brackets that clamp it all together so you don’t even need to attempt to put tennons in them. Very little skill is actually needed.
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Any pics of it? I think i could probably do it but I've started it this way now so will see how it turns out! Advantage of keeping some old is that I can chop inaccuracies down to "character"
 
dLockers said:
Now you've got me thinking @MattTheTall77 ...

Can anyone recall who did the bathroom refurb and fitted a Grohe wall hung kit?

Is there a place to get the Grohe kit inexpensive?
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You may not be thinking of me, but I certainly used a Grohe wall hung WC frame and toilet in my downstairs loo and posted about it on here.

I got it all from Amazon. Sometimes the kit comes up quite cheap on there, for whatever reason.
 
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Participant said:
You may not be thinking of me, but I certainly used a Grohe wall hung WC frame and toilet in my downstairs loo and posted about it on here.

I got it all from Amazon. Sometimes the kit comes up quite cheap on there, for whatever reason.
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Good shout -- have found the slightly taller unit (1.2m versus 0.8) for £150 randomly. Just need to get a toilet now... un sure if the full kits would be cheaper.
 
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