What "man jobs" have you done today?

dLockers said:
(partially) Built a shoe cupboard (stage 1 of n):
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Smashed up a toilet and started on the wall hung thing:
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I've ordered this:
www.screwfix.com

McAlpine Push-Fit Single Socket Drain Connector Black 110mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Polypropylene drain connector with 'O' seal socket. Finned seal spigot for internal connection to 110mm cast iron, plastic or clay. Ideal for low level connections. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com

As I have a clay pipe directly out of the floor. I can then reduce to a 90mm using the Grohe included adaptor. Does that seem correct?
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Could I recommend that you screw that to a sole plate / 2x4 underneath the frame rather than into that floor; much more secure and stable.
 
Participant said:
Could I recommend that you screw that to a sole plate / 2x4 underneath the frame rather than into that floor; much more secure and stable.
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I was thinking this --- just a regular 2x4? In my main thread I was thinking CT1 under the right hand side due to pipework and one big old bolt. I have some left over 38mm x 89mm.
 
Rehung one of my doors which wouldn't close. I'd left it there while the room was plastered (over 2 months ago) but thought it would be fine as it was oiled/finished?

Anyways it wasn't and initially thought it was hinges so changed all hinges which made no difference (I have spares). Instead I chopped the upper hinge out further to tilt it and that seems to have sorted it pretty Bob on. Only concern is it may have "twisted" /pulled on door but seems OK.

Never really altered much for doors, (i got carpenters to fit them as 1940s frames) but thought I cut out the hinge quite neat.

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WD40'd a few doors.

It took them 40 attempts to get their water displacing formula to work, but on the 40th attempt, they got it right in a big way. WD-40 Multi Use Product was born. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product.
 
SideWinder said:
WD40'd a few doors.

It took them 40 attempts to get their water displacing formula to work, but on the 40th attempt, they got it right in a big way. WD-40 Multi Use Product was born. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product.
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WD-40 isn't a lubricant, it is a water displacement product. If you want to lubricate you should use lubricant.

smile.amazon.co.uk/One-Oil-200ml-Drip-Can/dp/B00QKE6ZS6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=C42PPIEV1A71&keywords=3+in+1+oil&qid=1673960234&sprefix=3+in+1+oil%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-5
 
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Chaps - daft question, I need to build a false wall/frame for my new toilet --- I'll attach a sole plate to the floor to avoid hitting where the pipes are, but then to attach the verticals - is there proper ironmongery to do this? Is that even the right term? I just need a bag of 90 degrees or something for where I can't get from behind.

Or I'll just drill diagonally, but that feels a bit caveman.
 
Fixed my combi-drill. Only working in reverse so a switch issue. £18 for a new switch or £40 for an entirely new body with a 3 year warranty...

Not the right decision on paper in terms of value but I don't like sending things to landfill if they can be repaired. 13 years old and still (now) going strong.

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We've got 3 extractor fans in our house, all seemingly fitted by clowns who are somehow worse at DIY than I am - even though they would have been done by 'professionals'. New builds for you I guess! It's been on my list for a while, the en suite seems to get damp and we get bits of mold in the shower. For the meantime I've bought a little Bosh window vacuum thing for the water in the shower and we already use a squeegee but I'm going to replace the ceiling extractor with an inline direct to roof tile vent, just need to get someone in to do the roof as there's zero hope of me doing that. Currently the duct goes up into the loft, takes an immediate 90 degree turn and then goes around 12 foot to the soffit. I don't think it's working anywhere near well enough. I cleaned it out today and it was absolutely caked in dust.

I decided to tackle the one downstairs today, it's not been used since we moved in because it sounds like a 747 taking off. After removing the cover and getting the exact model number, then checking the manual, it has three settings via a jumper in a block, 1 being the lowest and the 3rd being Heathrow. I changed it to 2, still far too loud so settled on 1. Whilst doing this whatever is holding it to the ceiling gave way and it fell down about 2cm (from the small gap that was there before). Both other extractors are like this too.

I decided to take the thing out and have a proper look.

IMG-6955.jpg


It's supposed to sit on the ceiling via these little L shaped clips which are 'spring activated'. Except they aren't; they're old, brittle and basically ****. The extractor works perfectly, so I'm going to just silicone/glue the thing on as the best I managed was to get it on with a 5mm gap at the front of it. Either that, or replace it because it's the cheapest model and has no timer and only a trickle speed, which is effectively the '1' setting that it's on. Not sure it's worth the expense though as there's just a toilet in there, sink, and washing machine and we've never had any damp issues in this room.
 
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ChrisD. said:
We've got 3 extractor fans in our house, all seemingly fitted by clowns who are somehow worse at DIY than I am - even though they would have been done by 'professionals'. New builds for you I guess! It's been on my list for a while, the en suite seems to get damp and we get bits of mold in the shower. For the meantime I've bought a little Bosh window vacuum thing for the water in the shower and we already use a squeegee but I'm going to replace the ceiling extractor with an inline direct to roof tile vent, just need to get someone in to do the roof as there's zero hope of me doing that. Currently the duct goes up into the loft, takes an immediate 90 degree turn and then goes around 12 foot to the soffit. I don't think it's working anywhere near well enough. I cleaned it out today and it was absolutely caked in dust.

I decided to tackle the one downstairs today, it's not been used since we moved in because it sounds like a 747 taking off. After removing the cover and getting the exact model number, then checking the manual, it has three settings via a jumper in a block, 1 being the lowest and the 3rd being Heathrow. I changed it to 2, still far too loud so settled on 1. Whilst doing this whatever is holding it to the ceiling gave way and it fell down about 2cm (from the small gap that was there before). Both other extractors are like this too.

I decided to take the thing out and have a proper look.

IMG-6955.jpg


It's supposed to sit on the ceiling via these little L shaped clips which are 'spring activated'. Except they aren't; they're old, brittle and basically ****. The extractor works perfectly, so I'm going to just silicone/glue the thing on as the best I managed was to get it on with a 5mm gap at the front of it. Either that, or replace it because it's the cheapest model and has no timer and only a trickle speed, which is effectively the '1' setting that it's on. Not sure it's worth the expense though as there's just a toilet in there, sink, and washing machine and we've never had any damp issues in this room.
Click to expand...

Four years after we moved into our first house I found out that the hob extractor was in place, but the bloody duct wasn't connected!
 
dLockers said:
Chaps - daft question, I need to build a false wall/frame for my new toilet --- I'll attach a sole plate to the floor to avoid hitting where the pipes are, but then to attach the verticals - is there proper ironmongery to do this? Is that even the right term? I just need a bag of 90 degrees or something for where I can't get from behind.

Or I'll just drill diagonally, but that feels a bit caveman.
Click to expand...

Parkside Metal Brackets - at Lidl UK

Parkside Metal Brackets - Material: galvanised steel Choose from: Multi-Truss Hangers - 2 pack Size: 63 x 128mm Angle Brackets - 12 pack Size: 60 x 60 x
www.lidl.co.uk www.lidl.co.uk
 
Fitted an oak rail to underside of my stairs, got an oak rail to go in the bottom and black iron bars...... It took about 2 hours to get right but never really mitred in two directions (around 39 degrees in one plane and 2 in the other, not the same on both sides.

Annoyingly I cut it very slightly short (by 0.5mm or so!) will get covered with caulk I guess.

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y3F7ufz.jpg Pretty much done. (Shower taps yes). But massive amounts of work behind the scenes pays dividend for the final outcome. Could do this for a living but would charge too much or make no money as my standard is too high for a trade.

Anyway I’m pleased with how it turned out. Many many scope creeps and other things to do
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Underfloor cranked up is lovely underfoot
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