Soldato
Chainsaw
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Soldato
I used a chainsaw but it wasn't man enough for the job, burnt out in a shower of sparks
Probably needs a big beefy petrol one.
Last edited:
Soldato
It was exactly at this moment that we realised gingergundog was a serial killer.
Let them sleep you monster
Reclaimed or those large ones you buy from a garden centre that have never had a train pass over them?
Soldato
With a electric chain saw you need the saw to do the cutting -don't force it. Another thing I found this
year is my electric one get's gummed up with oil impregnated saw dust -packed solid between cog and housing.
Neighbour came round to use my bench saw to cut a post down middle - 6" to go and smoke came billowing out of motor - I didn't realise he was pushing as hard as he could. Dope - Thats me for not doing it for him.
year is my electric one get's gummed up with oil impregnated saw dust -packed solid between cog and housing.
Neighbour came round to use my bench saw to cut a post down middle - 6" to go and smoke came billowing out of motor - I didn't realise he was pushing as hard as he could. Dope - Thats me for not doing it for him.
Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Sep 2012
- Posts
- 3,189
They are the garden centre ones 200 x 100. I've been looking at the Dewalt cordless stuff, including the chainsaws...bit of a wuss about them though.
I cut one a while back using a handsaw and it took way too long. Possibly not the right handsaw though, or just a rubbish one...was brand new.
I cut one a while back using a handsaw and it took way too long. Possibly not the right handsaw though, or just a rubbish one...was brand new.
Soldato
They will be much easier to cut than the reclaimed and with a decent handsaw it would make light work of 200x100
Soldato
Recently got the DeWalt electric chainsaw and pleasantly surprised
No major progress but necessary progress... as usual, a right faff trying to get the right combination of sink traps. I was SO close to re-using an existing hole in the wall, I probably wasted an hour or two ******* about to suit it. Sometimes I wish I wasn't so "lucky" as it isn't quicker at all in the end.
^ did a tee to an appliance valve for the dishwasher that will live to the left of this unit. I ended up having to use the old trap as the McAlpine one was a fraction too low to meet the waste. I then had to join two 135 degree angles to make it all fit perfectly.
Outside doesn't look great but it is better than before, neat and can be sorted out later quick inexpensively...(I guess I could have tee'd into the vertical waste which is actually the overflow from the boiler IIRC.
^ did a tee to an appliance valve for the dishwasher that will live to the left of this unit. I ended up having to use the old trap as the McAlpine one was a fraction too low to meet the waste. I then had to join two 135 degree angles to make it all fit perfectly.
Outside doesn't look great but it is better than before, neat and can be sorted out later quick inexpensively...(I guess I could have tee'd into the vertical waste which is actually the overflow from the boiler IIRC.
Some questions though chaps ---
1. I have gap between the walls and floorboards at the back of the units. Should I fill these in with expanding foam?
2. How TF do you plumb a tap for a Belfast sink, lol? Surely you don't have to remove the worktop should it ever need replacing? :S
3. Some DIY Kitchen oddities:
3A. The Belfast sink unit from DIY Kitchens isn't reinforced at all, and that sink weighs about 80kgs I reckon.
3B. The Belfast sink unit itself is a fraction out of square vertically, too. This is super annoying as I wanted to "cast off" from it, but now I need to mess about squaring it up.
3C. There are no fixings for the units to the wall themselves, so it is all held in place by the counter top. Odd?
1. I have gap between the walls and floorboards at the back of the units. Should I fill these in with expanding foam?
2. How TF do you plumb a tap for a Belfast sink, lol? Surely you don't have to remove the worktop should it ever need replacing? :S
3. Some DIY Kitchen oddities:
3A. The Belfast sink unit from DIY Kitchens isn't reinforced at all, and that sink weighs about 80kgs I reckon.
3B. The Belfast sink unit itself is a fraction out of square vertically, too. This is super annoying as I wanted to "cast off" from it, but now I need to mess about squaring it up.
3C. There are no fixings for the units to the wall themselves, so it is all held in place by the counter top. Odd?
Wall fittings https://www.toolstation.com/kitchen-unit-space-plug-fitting/p69084
Should be enough room behind to plumb the tap in. Long flexibitails fitted beforehand so you only need to secure the tap.
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Sep 2012
- Posts
- 3,189
EDIT: Didnt see second picture
Last edited:
Caporegime
- Joined
- 13 Nov 2006
- Posts
- 25,847
Bow saw? Too rough?
When I did mine I pre-attached the tap to the worktop before I installed it.
The way of dealing with a replacement tap from what I have seen is to unscrew the sink cabinet from the wall and adjoining units and drop it down using the legs and lifting the sink out after taking the waste off.
Figured I’d deal with it if I ever needed to at the time. I did also was cut a decent hole in the top of the unit so I could access the tap from below if needed but the cupboard is tiny so I doubt that is realistic.
The way of dealing with a replacement tap from what I have seen is to unscrew the sink cabinet from the wall and adjoining units and drop it down using the legs and lifting the sink out after taking the waste off.
Figured I’d deal with it if I ever needed to at the time. I did also was cut a decent hole in the top of the unit so I could access the tap from below if needed but the cupboard is tiny so I doubt that is realistic.
I think you're right... I had understood as much as remove sink but couldn't figure out how to remove. Dropping the legs makes sense but I'm tight to my fittings. After mulling it through overnight, luckily the unit to the left of my sink is the dishwasher so I'll have rear access.
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Sep 2012
- Posts
- 3,189
Might be an option, hasn't got to be too perfect.
Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Sep 2012
- Posts
- 3,189
Id probably make the back panel removable and also have some isolation valves in there.
Mines the same but I also have an ‘end’ panel between to support the worktop (under counter fridge and freezer follow the dishwasher). I didn’t cut an access hole into the end panel before I installed it so that would also be a tricky job!
Edit: was @Classic Blue Theme formally known as dLockers? Have I missed something there?
Last edited:
Soldato
Yep, you can click/tap on the username and there's a little clock/rewind icon to show you what the user name used to be.
Soldato
^ did a tee to an appliance valve for the dishwasher that will live to the left of this unit. I ended up having to use the old trap as the McAlpine one was a fraction too low to meet the waste. I then had to join two 135 degree angles to make it all fit perfectly.
Have you tried pouring anything down that? It will drain poorly as your outlet connection is too high (/ new sink is low relative to your old one presumably?)
Last edited: