What "man jobs" have you done today?

kindai said:
If you have a scaled window it will scale the image accordingly. If you have full window it will show the full image size unless you use a width attribute eg [img width="1200px"]pichere[/img]
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Ah gotcha thank you. I normally split screen so that's why it works nice for me. I'll add the width thing in as that solves my image resizing problem.

Maybe a feature request to set image width when you insert image for our resident povvos on 1024x768
 
dirtychinchilla said:
304Q9w9.png
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Whinges about pic size but has sigs enabled. Sympathy revoked :D :o:eek:
 
dlockers said:
Ah gotcha thank you. I normally split screen so that's why it works nice for me. I'll add the width thing in as that solves my image resizing problem.

Maybe a feature request to set image width when you insert image for our resident povvos on 1024x768
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Whether on my laptop screen or external monitor (with browser set to left half), they show as massive images for me. Both screens are higher than 1024x768.
 
dlockers said:
Ah gotcha thank you. I normally split screen so that's why it works nice for me. I'll add the width thing in as that solves my image resizing problem.

Maybe a feature request to set image width when you insert image for our resident povvos on 1024x768
Click to expand...

When I post an image, I click on the inserted image and little yellow blocks appear at the corners and it allows me to drag the corners to resize it - but then I have the forum set to the "n00b" setting so I don't have to use tags like [ b] [ /b] or [ IMG] [/ IMG] etc

Like so (resized) -


0fMlVCY.jpeg
 
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Does paying the plasterer count as a man job? Now to put the radiator, tv, thermostat and pictures back on the walls!
 
skyripper said:
The paper is from the Designers Guild. It is beautiful but also crazy price.
G6jS182m.jpg

Thats two rolls up there.

I also don't recommend Zofany paint if you don't want to sell bodily organs. Unfortunately my wife has no such qualms :)

I think rigifix / corefix are the way to go, but it's the holes behind the plasterboard [in the blockwork] I need to rebuild/refill, thinking gripfill tbh, then redrill fresh to exact size after.
ZkVC3cGm.jpg

Then I can make the plasterboard good.
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skyripper said:
It was a 32in when I first put it up, and then I won a 42in at work in a charity raffle.
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WAY too big (heavy) for a tiny stand like that which is probably designed for something more like the weight of a 22”. I’m not surprised it fell off.. more than once.

Don’t bother rebuilding the blocks behind the wall. You need a bracket with 6+ fixings, probably more for a big TV to come out the wall like that. The mounting plates are normally significant to spread the load across the wall and not 3 little fixings in the middle.
 
I did check the sizes it supported on the site before I bought it, I know this isn't looking like it, but I am pretty risk adverse :) and it came from a proper TV bracket site not Alibaba. It's not like I put it up on a couple of gripits. It was 4 rigifix originally. And it's never fallen off before, but the fixings did move after 4 years which is why I wasn't happy.

Anyhow I have prepared the project manager for the probability that a bigger more manly bracket will be required and that the plasterboard isn't getting done until I'm happy the wall behind is in good order.

Going to be noisy messy and dusty but it'll get done right not quick this time
 
Is your plaster dot and dab?

I fitted a gun safe on a wall like that but drilled two or three 2" hole in plaster then filled the gap up with runny dab -let it dry and was OK -mind you I did go right into the blocks behind with bolts - it just made the plaster board solid..
 
Stripped the Stihl MS390 chainsaw I bought cheap off Ebay last week, after removing the silencer to see if it had a scored piston, which it did. Put all the parts in the grease eater and left to stew, then rinsed off and blow dried and now awaiting a new piston and barrel, little end needle roller bearing, crank oil seals and a new clutch drum. Came with two new chains! Total cost of repair parts £50.

Built a hot air exit chimney for my rebuilt generator to vent cooling radiator exit hot air into the workshop loft, where it exits via the soffit vents. The thing got the place uncomfortably toasty without the door open and I DO NOT want rodents in there again.

Now stacking the weekends cut logs by the light of the tractor headlights... Looking forward to beer and bed to be honest.


gen1.jpg


stihl1.jpg


stihl2.jpg



stihl3.jpg
 
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Had a bit of a nightmare with some plastering I had done, my front door can no longer open due to the boxing out of the arch now clashing with the door opening.

I think i only have 2 ways to resolve

1. shift /amend the door frame
2. Multi tool out the boxing and get it plastered back flush to the previous position so the door doesn't clash


Any other thoughts? Can see below how wide it can open..
There's options where I could route the door frame etc but it still won't be able to open wide enough to retain full functionality/opening

Before
41oKsTB.jpeg



After
U41R4sT.jpeg


UI1LXaw.jpeg


QKg73EC.jpeg
 
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It would be fiddly but you could remove the plaster on the interior top part of the arch between the buttresses and sand blast the whitewashed bricks as a "feature", leaving just the rest plastered.
 
Looks like the put on about 6 inches of plaster :eek:. I'm starting to see why most doors are rectangular. I think if you only multitool a bit it will look ****. I reckon if you mirror any removal on both side it will blend better, but what ^ he said might look OK.
 
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