What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Finally got it sanded and undercoat on -It's only a wheelbarrow so it's not car body quality.
It was bloody cold out there over weekend - So waiting for Hammerite to turn up and paint it black -Also got SS lock nuts and bolt's coming this week.
Still got to do barrow bed but will finish frame first.
It was bloody cold out there over weekend - So waiting for Hammerite to turn up and paint it black -Also got SS lock nuts and bolt's coming this week.
Still got to do barrow bed but will finish frame first.
Soldato
- Joined
- 9 Dec 2009
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- 5,332
- Location
- Bristol
Finally got it sanded and undercoat on -It's only a wheelbarrow so it's not car body quality.
It was bloody cold out there over weekend - So waiting for Hammerite to turn up and paint it black -Also got SS lock nuts and bolt's coming this week.
Still got to do barrow bed but will finish frame first.
You'll be scared to get it dirty once it's finished.
Yeah but obvs he'll have a work barrow, and this'll become his "best" barrow.
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Nov 2002
- Posts
- 7,711
- Location
- Under the Hill
Lifted some floorboards
What's the plan?Lifted some floorboards
I can't even remember exactly when we started on this bathroom, some point during the summer of 2022. Life got in the way someone and efforts were focused elsewhere in the kitchen.
Not entirely sure when I removed the towel radiator, can't seem to find my original post.
Chased the walls and had the entire floor up at one point to put down ply to save around 10mm for floor level and to also put down tileboard. A very small room as you can see.
Marble tiling
MDF bath panel not really suitable but Mrs's place and on a budget. Some fielded panels have been added, not pictured.
Spend about 2 hours on Friday night fitting the toilet and swearing at the generic fitting kit which wasn't really suitable. There's been no upstairs loo for over a year which means navigating stairs in the dark half asleep to sit on the coldest throne. Removed the cast iron stack and moved it a few inches to the left a while back.
Washstand will make an appearance once a marble top has been sourced. Recessed wall cabinet which I need to find a solution to hinge a mirror on.
(temporary loo-seat)
Also prepped the pipework for the shower mixer ahead of next weekend. This is the same wall as the radiator which is only around 9-10cm thick, a cupboard in an adjacent bedroom houses the boiler.
Bent around the boiler cover so it can be removed easily without having to disconnect the shower. State of some of the electrics in this house
I would have liked to have teed in with copper but you can see the push fit where the builders mutilated things for the extension. I fully expect the shower mixer to need some attention after a water test so being able to easily remove the assembly is no bad thing. Mixer has 22mm couplings in and 15mm out.
Not entirely sure when I removed the towel radiator, can't seem to find my original post.
Chased the walls and had the entire floor up at one point to put down ply to save around 10mm for floor level and to also put down tileboard. A very small room as you can see.
Marble tiling
MDF bath panel not really suitable but Mrs's place and on a budget. Some fielded panels have been added, not pictured.
Spend about 2 hours on Friday night fitting the toilet and swearing at the generic fitting kit which wasn't really suitable. There's been no upstairs loo for over a year which means navigating stairs in the dark half asleep to sit on the coldest throne. Removed the cast iron stack and moved it a few inches to the left a while back.
Washstand will make an appearance once a marble top has been sourced. Recessed wall cabinet which I need to find a solution to hinge a mirror on.
(temporary loo-seat)
Also prepped the pipework for the shower mixer ahead of next weekend. This is the same wall as the radiator which is only around 9-10cm thick, a cupboard in an adjacent bedroom houses the boiler.
Bent around the boiler cover so it can be removed easily without having to disconnect the shower. State of some of the electrics in this house
I would have liked to have teed in with copper but you can see the push fit where the builders mutilated things for the extension. I fully expect the shower mixer to need some attention after a water test so being able to easily remove the assembly is no bad thing. Mixer has 22mm couplings in and 15mm out.
Looks mega. I'm considering this style for my bathroom. Where did you get the tiles from? Would you recommend?I can't even remember exactly when we started on this bathroom, some point during the summer of 2022. Life got in the way someone and efforts were focused elsewhere in the kitchen.
Not entirely sure when I removed the towel radiator, can't seem to find my original post.
Chased the walls and had the entire floor up at one point to put down ply to save around 10mm for floor level and to also put down tileboard. A very small room as you can see.
Marble tiling
Spend about 2 hours on Friday night fitting the toilet and swearing at the generic fitting kit which wasn't really suitable. There's been no upstairs loo for over a year which means navigating stairs in the dark half asleep to sit on the coldest throne. Removed the cast iron stack and moved it a few inches to the left a while back.
Washstand will make an appearance once a marble top has been sourced. Recessed wall cabinet which I need to find a solution to hinge a mirror on.
(temporary loo-seat)
Also prepped the pipework for the shower mixer ahead of next weekend. This is the same wall as the radiator which is only around 9-10cm thick, a cupboard in an adjacent bedroom houses the boiler.
Bent around the boiler cover so it can be removed easily without having to disconnect the shower. State of some of the electrics in this house
I would have liked to have teed in with copper but you can see the push fit where the builders mutilated things for the extension. I fully expect the shower mixer to need some attention after a water test so being able to easily remove the assembly is no bad thing. Mixer has 22mm couplings in and 15mm out.
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Nov 2002
- Posts
- 7,711
- Location
- Under the Hill
Rewire, replumb every room
fit a breathable membrane
add 140mm of rockwool or earthwool
DPM on top
overboard with 22mm OSB/ply
Carpet bedrooms and lounge, vinyl tile or engineered wood hallways, kitchen/dining
Open kitchen dining wall with steel
Raise windows
close off lounge
create new front door
turn window to patio doors
plaster
paint
oak doors
new trim and skirting
air source heat pump
new bathroom
new kitchen
new wc (moving to current porch)
relay patio
level garden and fence off
sell it
build a house next door.
Rewire, replumb every room
fit a breathable membrane
add 140mm of rockwool or earthwool
DPM on top
overboard with 22mm OSB/ply
Carpet bedrooms and lounge, vinyl tile or engineered wood hallways, kitchen/dining
Open kitchen dining wall with steel
Raise windows
close off lounge
create new front door
turn window to patio doors
plaster
paint
oak doors
new trim and skirting
air source heat pump
new bathroom
new kitchen
new wc (moving to current porch)
relay patio
level garden and fence off
sell it
build a house next door.
Have you seen my thread/posts? I did sub floor insulation and used PIR and batons, absolute game changer. I've seen a few Instagram Reno stories using loft roll and they've been slammed. Worth spending the cash on 100mm if you can get it...marketplace...think I paid 500 for 50sqm. I think I'll use rockwool upstairs.
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Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Nov 2002
- Posts
- 7,711
- Location
- Under the Hill
I did see some. I am having the debate as my foundation is a concrete slab, with the timbers on air bricks. Having cleared two rooms it is bone dry and there is no access for rodents as the air vents are concrete and set into the brick well. I am therefore thinking that I will add straps to support the insulation slabs and then consider a DPM above. However if I end up fitting ply/osb with tongue and groove, by the time I add underlay with a vapour barrier for carpet/engineered wood, I can't see how it would be needed. The skirting will overlap the floorboard and be caulked and glued so there will be no airflow ingress at the edges. I can't imagine much will get through 140mm of rockwool/earthwool, interlocked floorboards, underlay with vapour barrier and then the carpet/engineered floor. Definitely will be little to no downwards movement of moisture through all that.
Have you seen my thread/posts? I did sub floor insulation and used PIR and batons, absolute game changer. I've seen a few Instagram Reno stories using loft roll and they've been slammed. Worth spending the cash on 100mm if you can get it...marketplace...think I paid 500 for 50sqm. I think I'll use rockwool upstairs.
vapour barrier and breathable membrane will cost me £700-800 so want to avoid if it is unnecessary.
My timbers are 140mm, should I just go for 100mm slabs/rolls, is 140mm overkill?
Imho 140mm joists is screaming for batoning and then 100mm with silver tape. Sounds like a similar cost and it'd integrate the vapour barrier. Then the edges you can fill with expanding foam for 100% seal. The better the seal at subfloor level the less your skirting will add as a cold bridge too.
My floor construction was the same but I had an issue with dpc being above floor level
My floor construction was the same but I had an issue with dpc being above floor level
Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
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- 9,232
- Location
- Beds
One day this forum will learn the difference between baton and batten
Usually recommended to have an air channel around PIR boards but, I imagine if there's air under the joists anyway then that suffices. I think 100mm is plenty of insulation but new builds require 120mm I think! I value of 0.13 WhatchamaKelvins
Usually recommended to have an air channel around PIR boards but, I imagine if there's air under the joists anyway then that suffices. I think 100mm is plenty of insulation but new builds require 120mm I think! I value of 0.13 WhatchamaKelvins
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Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Nov 2002
- Posts
- 7,711
- Location
- Under the Hill
the thing is, I can go for 0.0035/m at 100mm or 0.004 at 120mm, essentially identical performance. Baton/batten, my mistake .
I specified the heat pump assuming 100mm, but without the knowledge that we had a full concrete slab. Will see if I can get supply at a reasonable price. @dlockers, where did you find best for insulation supply?
.I specified the heat pump assuming 100mm, but without the knowledge that we had a full concrete slab. Will see if I can get supply at a reasonable price. @dlockers, where did you find best for insulation supply?
I went for dodgy builder on Facebook marketplace. He seemed more amiable to delivering smaller quantities. He couldn't tell you brand name till delivery day tho so I don't doubt some of it was half inched from local new build sitesthe thing is, I can go for 0.0035/m at 100mm or 0.004 at 120mm, essentially identical performance. Baton/batten, my mistake
I specified the heat pump assuming 100mm, but without the knowledge that we had a full concrete slab. Will see if I can get supply at a reasonable price. @dlockers, where did you find best for insulation supply?
Sounds like you've done more homework than me so don't take anything I've said as my advice or recommendation - I just had 100mm joists and had just watched the Gosforth Handyman video where he did PIR.
X-post as its kind of a man job (at least for Andy, I just did the fitting):
About damn time I got some respect around here, ever since reaction-gate:
Beautiful.
(the lights are meant to go through the recess on the bracket but I already went "too far" when I first fitted the LED stick on. This works fine though, and no shadows. White ethernet to be replaced when I CBA with something about 20m shorter.
Perfect.
----
The legend that is @andy_mk3 knocked me up a 3D carbon Govee TV camera mount, as my ultra ponce LG C3 is too thin for such cheapo bolt-ons. Looks wicked and does exactly what I wanted it to, thanks Andy!
About damn time I got some respect around here, ever since reaction-gate:
Beautiful.
(the lights are meant to go through the recess on the bracket but I already went "too far" when I first fitted the LED stick on. This works fine though, and no shadows. White ethernet to be replaced when I CBA with something about 20m shorter.
Perfect.
----
The legend that is @andy_mk3 knocked me up a 3D carbon Govee TV camera mount, as my ultra ponce LG C3 is too thin for such cheapo bolt-ons. Looks wicked and does exactly what I wanted it to, thanks Andy!
Pain this one with moving the sewer a few feet.
Calacatta from Starel Stones. This is all my O/H's research etc. As you'd expect these need regularly sealing.
I actually picked up a few extra packs from Southampton whilst visiting friends and they were really helpful when trying to find a good match for the existing delivery we had months earlier. I think I ended up coming away with a few extra tiles FOC as part of complete packs from the swap, which was handy from a spares perspective but not really needed.
These cut pretty well with a 4-5" grinder blade from Amazon. Mitring them around a window is difficult as you'd imagine and they are prone to crumbling but if the mitre is not too thin you can get away with it.