What "man jobs" have you done today?

sigma said:
I'm no expert but wont you need to drain the system, at the very least it will need bleeding, probably OK for a one off but if doing multiple doesn't it make sense to do them all in one go? Again, I'm no expert.
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If I have enough confidence to do it myself and not mess it up then yes I guess I could do them in one go

The only issue is the old style rad in the living room. It is an old.double, I would probably need to upgrade it to a new style double however I managed to break the bleed screw head on it last year with the bleed key, so the metal screw is stil in there just not the bit where the key goes at the top. so may need drilling out before I replace it. Can't you let all the water out from the bottom?

Currently Rads are singles In bedrooms and bathroom, old double in living room and old double in kitchen
 
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DJMK4 said:
If I have enough confidence to do it myself and not mess it up then yes I guess I could do them in one go

The only issue is the old style rad in the living room. It is an old.double, I would probably need to upgrade it to a new style double however I managed to break the bleed screw head on it last year with the bleed key, so the metal screw is stil in there just not the bit where the key goes at the top. so may need drilling out before I replace it. Can't you let all the water out from the bottom?

Currently Rads are singles In bedrooms and bathroom, old double in living room and old double in kitchen
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If you’re using same width you might be alright.

You don’t need to drain the system. Close the valve on the trv and other side. Undo it, if you’re brave, lift it off and flip it upside down then take it outside and drain it. Otherwise let it drain, after the first few glugs, open the bleed valve so it empties quicker.

If they’re gonna be off for a while get some end caps and put them on the flow/return pipes. Means you don’t have to rely on the valves.

After you fit the new rad you will need to bleed the new rad and add some more water to the system.
 
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Mason- said:
If you’re using same width you might be alright.

You don’t need to drain the system. Close the valve on the trv and other side. Undo it, if you’re brave, lift it off and flip it upside down. Otherwise let it drain, after the first few glugs, open the bleed valve so it empties quicker.

If they’re gonna be off for a while get some end caps and put them on the flow/return pipes. Means you don’t have to rely on the valves.
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The problem is it'll be airlocked without the bleed valve open so might be a bit annoying..
 
dlockers said:
The problem is it'll be airlocked without the bleed valve open so might be a bit annoying..
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How do you mean?

You either take it off full, by flipping it upside down.

Or you let it drain, and in that case you open the bleed valve so it drains quicker.
 
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Mason- said:
How do you mean?

You either take it off full, by flipping it upside down.

Or you let it drain, and in that case you open the bleed valve so it drains quicker.
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He said the bleed is knackered. I can't imagine lifting a full rad and flipping it however I'm normally a one man army so maybe that's why it seems near impossible!
 
sigma said:
Does the spec of the boiler need to be analysed to see if it can handle lots of double rads? Or is the difference negligible?
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I have no idea I will have to check. Unfortunately the boiler is an old potterton boiler atm...may get it replaced in future
 
dlockers said:
He said the bleed is knackered. I can't imagine lifting a full rad and flipping it however I'm normally a one man army so maybe that's why it seems near impossible!
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Depends on the size I suppose. Ah missed the part where he said it was busted. Can still just remove the whole bleed valve rather than opening it.
 
I haven't watched the video above, but when I removed a radiator a few years ago the amount of black sludge coming out the rad was terrible, not something you want to do near carpets.
 
sigma said:
Does the spec of the boiler need to be analysed to see if it can handle lots of double rads? Or is the difference negligible?
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No. Bigger rads are better because you can run the boiler at a lower flow temperature which is more efficient.

Your boiler determines how much heat can be put into the system and the radiators determine how much heat you can get out at any given flow temperature. You use the lock shield valve to make sure each radiator is not ‘stealing’ too much heat from the loop.

If you can run the flow temperature at below 50C when it’s -2/3 outside and the house stays warm, you’ll also be heat pump ready. Below 40C and you’ll have a very high performing system.
 
DJMK4 said:
I want to replace some of the radiators in the house from single to double , I want to do this where I'm going to be swapping one at a time, isolate etc , they will be the same size, and the pipework will be in the same place. Am I going to need any specialist tools or skills which will be hard ? Or is is undoing stuff swapping stuff doing stuff back up? Etc ?
there seems to be YouTube videos online about doing this isolating the radiator then swapping it out without draining your system.? I have a standard system, no combi

Any guidance on if this is a good DIY job if I take my time one at a time and get the measurements of the radiator right. Measure mine then go and find a double the same.? Try it on first small one first before I tackle the bigger ones ?
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It's a fairly straight forward job. Close the valves either side of the radiator, counting how many times you turn the lockshield valve (the valve covered with a plastic cap and not normally adjustable without removing the cap).

If your bleed screw valve has gone, then when you start loosening the nuts holding the valves onto the radiator the water will come out fairly quickly. So before you loosen the nuts, get plenty of towels, rags, jugs and buckets nearby - then make sure the OH isn't watching, ready to whinge about the flooring getting wet. :D

There are some radiators in my house that I wouldn't dream of lifting when full of water. But if your bleed valve is broken and letting air in, you might not get much of a chance to flip the radiator. I'd be tempted to bung it up with something to stop air getting in, just to get some control of the air going in, especially while you're draining the radiator into jugs and emptying those jugs into buckets.

Before replacing the radiators, you could run some system cleaner through for a few days before you start. I know you're replacing the radiators, but it will help clean the rest of radiators and pipework in the system. Once you've installed all the radiators and know they're leak free, put some inhibitor in.

Is there a reason you're doing the radiators one by one? And do you mean in one day, or over a long period? It'd make your life a lot easier to drain the system then replace the radiators in one go. This way you won't be introducing crud into your brand new radiators.
 
Eek there's slight movement in my shower tray so I'm gonna put in more silicone in one corner :X

I think will be alright once there's a glass panel and tiles etc on it. Can't really take it up as its so well stuck in!
 
Buffman said:
Got my bathroom fully boarded, and ordered a shower tray... Cost £400 but should be good...

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Mira Flight Safe Low Rectangular Shower Tray - 1500 x 700mm 0 Ups

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... Lots of packers
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I'm prepping a stud wall at the moment, hopefully boad going on next week.

I noticed on some pieces of board you don't have screw in the middle, wondering whether I can get away with this or whether I should stick some stud in, I guess it won't do any harm, just need to make sure it's in the right place. I did get a guy in to do some boarding and he only did the edges (to my dismay). Did you tape the joins?
 
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sigma said:
I'm prepping a stud wall at the moment, hopefully boad going on next week.

I noticed on some pieces of board you don't have screw in the middle, wondering whether I can get away with this or whether I should stick some stud in, I guess it won't do any harm, just need to make sure it's in the right place. I did get a guy in to do some boarding and he only did the edges (to my dismay). Did you tape the joins?
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Is it to plasterboard/plaster or tile in a bathroom you're going for? Some walls you will see are 600mm centres and some are more like 300mm so that's probably the difference.

I'm going to use waterproof tape on any shower area joints. For the areas that aren't in the shower I probably will not bother using scrim tape. I don't think it'd offer much of any benefit over the adhesive even though that's what I've done before. Each board I've used adhesive to the adjacent board also.

Ive logged it all here

Thinking about wetroom / new bathroom.

Hi I'm thinking of renovating my "spare" bathroom beside office. I will also be chasing out the office floor so I can get an outside tap to the back garden which I currently don't have. Couple questions Can you sink a wetroom former into a concrete screed (by chasing out say 30mm across...
forums.overclockers.co.uk forums.overclockers.co.uk
 
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