What "man jobs" have you done today?

BennyC said:
Calacatta from Starel Stones. This is all my O/H's research etc. As you'd expect these need regularly sealing.

I actually picked up a few extra packs from Southampton whilst visiting friends and they were really helpful when trying to find a good match for the existing delivery we had months earlier. I think I ended up coming away with a few extra tiles FOC as part of complete packs from the swap, which was handy from a spares perspective but not really needed.

These cut pretty well with a 4-5" grinder blade from Amazon. Mitring them around a window is difficult as you'd imagine and they are prone to crumbling but if the mitre is not too thin you can get away with it.
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I was afraid you'd say that! I have a sample of their stuff in the shed. I love it, but it's quite spenny! Thanks for confirming (but secret no thank you :mad:).

I love the edge/border bits too!
 
dlockers said:
X-post as its kind of a man job (at least for Andy, I just did the fitting):

About damn time I got some respect around here, ever since reaction-gate:




Beautiful.



(the lights are meant to go through the recess on the bracket but I already went "too far" when I first fitted the LED stick on. This works fine though, and no shadows. White ethernet to be replaced when I CBA with something about 20m shorter.


Perfect.

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The legend that is @andy_mk3 knocked me up a 3D carbon Govee TV camera mount, as my ultra ponce LG C3 is too thin for such cheapo bolt-ons. Looks wicked and does exactly what I wanted it to, thanks Andy!
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You’re welcome :D :D

Looks like it’s doing the job nicely!
 
bainbridge said:
You'll be scared to get it dirty once it's finished.
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Quite right so made a new barrow. Refurb is taking longer and costing more.

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@andy_mk3 would you be willing to share the 3d plan for that bracket you did for dlockers? I might be able to get someone at my wifes work to print one out for me (I'm still working on arguments on why we need a 3d printer in the house)
 
Sorted tray, there seems to be a bit of flex in it but hopefully that all taken out when sand/cement and silicone dries.

I forgot to take a pic of the mortar mix but I pretty much flooded it full, used a whole 25kg bag of sand and about 5:1 eyeballed if a little on the sandy side.

Used a whole tube and a half of silicone

Tray was 1500*700, 36kg and near £400 but it's one of the anti slip ones which I like (apart from the fact it picks up marks easy...)

I will need to screed the floor with the tray in but I don't think that's a big issue

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Buffman said:
Sorted tray, there seems to be a bit of flex in it but hopefully that all taken out when sand/cement and silicone dries.

I forgot to take a pic of the mortar mix but I pretty much flooded it full, used a whole 25kg bag of sand and about 5:1 eyeballed if a little on the sandy side.

Used a whole tube and a half of silicone

Tray was 1500*700, 36kg and near £400 but it's one of the anti slip ones which I like (apart from the fact it picks up marks easy...)

I will need to screed the floor with the tray in but I don't think that's a big issue







sp0VFHM.jpeg
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Flexi tile adhesive works well and I find its a bit easier to work with plus you know its mixed the right amount.
 
gingergundog said:
Flexi tile adhesive works well and I find its a bit easier to work with plus you know its mixed the right amount.
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Youre meant to avoid tile adhesive as if you bond the two surfaces if there's any differential movement it can delaminate and breakthe surface as I understand.

Really it's just something you want to fill up the "voids" so to speak and 99.99% of time I imagine tile adhesive is fine.
 
Friday, fitted coach bolts, washer and nuts to help fix my joists to my rafters. Some looked like they were separating or the joists were twisting away.


Then today started fitting the Kingspan K107:

Fitted little fillets to ensure I don’t push them too far and to ensure >50mm airflow behind.





Then cutting and fitting. Every single one was a different width and often tapering/not consistent the length of the gap… deep joy. As well I used my sliding bevel on everyone and the angle changed every time too.





Fitted the ‘easy ones’ and taped:






Will do the fiddly ones tomorrow.

Plan is to put 62.5mm K118 on the sloping part and on the walls. As well need to reboard the ceiling.


Anyone got any advice on ordering?

I was gonna do:

1. Insulation between rafters
2. Board ceiling
3. Insulated plasterboard sloped ceiling
4. Insulated plasterboard walls.
 
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Buffman said:
Youre meant to avoid tile adhesive as if you bond the two surfaces if there's any differential movement it can delaminate and breakthe surface as I understand.

Really it's just something you want to fill up the "voids" so to speak and 99.99% of time I imagine tile adhesive is fine.
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Id not heard that tbh although it could well be correct, id assumed the flexible part of the adhesive mitigates any movement between surfaces.
 
dlockers said:
Hi folks,

First time in this sub- is there a place for requests? I have a new LG tv and it is too thin for the camera. Luckily someone has made a bracket that looks quite nice.
www.thingiverse.com

Govee Immersion Wi-Fi TV Backlights-Flat tv camera support by coxmo

support for flat tv, since the camera does not hold well, place a piece of double-sided adhesive on the part that goes to the tv
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com

Or any guidance appreciated on where I can go!
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Itchytrigg said:
@andy_mk3 would you be willing to share the 3d plan for that bracket you did for dlockers? I might be able to get someone at my wifes work to print one out for me (I'm still working on arguments on why we need a 3d printer in the house)
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Link above :)
 
I want to replace some of the radiators in the house from single to double , I want to do this where I'm going to be swapping one at a time, isolate etc , they will be the same size, and the pipework will be in the same place. Am I going to need any specialist tools or skills which will be hard ? Or is is undoing stuff swapping stuff doing stuff back up? Etc ?
there seems to be YouTube videos online about doing this isolating the radiator then swapping it out without draining your system.? I have a standard system, no combi

Any guidance on if this is a good DIY job if I take my time one at a time and get the measurements of the radiator right. Measure mine then go and find a double the same.? Try it on first small one first before I tackle the bigger ones ?
 
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DJMK4 said:
I want to replace some of the radiators in the house from single to double , I want to do this where I'm going to be swapping one at a time, isolate etc , they will be the same size, and the pipework will be in the same place. Am I going to need any specialist tools or skills which will be hard ? Or is is undoing stuff swapping stuff doing stuff back up? Etc ?
there seems to be YouTube videos online about doing this isolating the radiator then swapping it out without draining your system.? I have a standard system, no combi

Any guidance on if this is a good DIY job if I take my time one at a time and get the measurements of the radiator right. Measure mine then go and find a double the same.? Try it on first small one first before I tackle the bigger ones ?
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I'm no expert but wont you need to drain the system, at the very least it will need bleeding, probably OK for a one off but if doing multiple doesn't it make sense to do them all in one go? Again, I'm no expert.
 
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No need to drain the system but you may have issues with pipework as the doubles will be further from the wall. You'll need to mount the brackets perfectly plumb too. It isn't a novice DIY job, IMHO.
 
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