I had these above the bedroom doors in my late 70s build and got them boxed out/skimmed over to make it look a bit more modern.
I had these above the bedroom doors in my late 70s build and got them boxed out/skimmed over to make it look a bit more modern.
What?Plumber wanted a grand just for waste pipe
2 man lift I guess. It's a shame as he only dinged me for 220 on the rad pipework adjustment.What?
Wall or floor first personal choice... usually I set a batten on the wall to tile from first. Then tile floor, then remove batten and tile the final peices to the floor.We have soil pipe....
Just need to crack on with tiling now. First job is to get the tileboard down - do I really need to glue and screw this?
Should I tile the wall or floor first?
It's marble which I hadn't quite realised weighs so much
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Be interested to see as I'm planning on making something similar.We have a bit of a dudd space in our 4th bedroom/office which were going to turn into a nursery so I've been building a little custom built wardrobe/unit type thing for us to have as storage for when the Bambino arrives.
Built out of 18mm hardwood ply, backed it with 3mm ply. Just need to order some storage baskets along the bottom then I have a shelf to fit above them, and then hang a rail at the top to hang clothes from.
Also cut down some scaffolding board I had in the shed to make a few shelves.
Cheers - what adhesive is the best choice nowadays?Wall or floor first personal choice... usually I set a batten on the wall to tile from first. Then tile floor, then remove batten and tile the final peices to the floor.
It's all in the setting out... avoiding small cuts etc. If you tile a whole tile straight from the floor, yeah don't do that. You can get away from using battens if you cut your bottom row first and tile from that ensuring it is 100% level this way you tile the floor first.
Yes screwing and adhesive the backer board to the floor is correct.
If you look at installation guidelines for Marmox board, just screws/washers on the floor is fine for timber. Your floor should be flat/level given you've replaced it.Cheers - what adhesive is the best choice nowadays?
For the screws, I assume I'm just trying to grab the 18mm chipboard and not into joists or anything?
Yeah don't go through the chipboard.Cheers - what adhesive is the best choice nowadays?
For the screws, I assume I'm just trying to grab the 18mm chipboard and not into joists or anything?
Yeah don't go through the chipboard.
Adhesive wise I mostly use https://www.protilertools.co.uk/pro...modified-standard-set-flexible-c2te-20kg-grey
or the rapid set. Tiling is much more chilled using a standard set.
For your floor tiles you'd be better using an S2 flexi adhesive. E.g https://www.protilertools.co.uk/pro...bre-reinforced-flexible-s2-adhesive-grey-20kg
Get a paddle attachment for your drill to mix up.
Depending on your marble you may want to use a white adhesive.
Thanks chaps will go for an s2 for the floor and something white for the marble.Yeah deffo avoid rapid set if youve never tiled before.
Use a white adhesive if you're doing white or light grout.
Use an s2 flexi adhesive for a suspended floor
I am debating ATM how to tackle the plumbing. Do I tile and YOLO it or do I pressure and leak test everything prior to tiling?![]()
Its no more likely to leak at any of the prior joints after opening /connecting the ends in 2nd fix than with it capped in 1st fix is what Im getting at.Yeah I meant just leak test tbh.
This is where I'm up to up to now.Be interested to see as I'm planning on making something similar.
Plumbed in new washing machine (the feet barely touched the floor before it was stuffed full) and got a start on the floor - man do I regret choosing herringbone, if it was straight planks I would have been sat in the garden with a beer by 4pmI'll have to finish off in the morning, don't think the neighbours appreciate my mitre saw going off past 8pm.
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