What "man jobs" have you done today?

Just to add to the wallpaper discussion, wallpaper like that reminds me of tattoos. Seems like a good idea and cool design at the time, but there's a great chance you will eventually grow to hate it and it's a pain to remove.

I suppose if you do change your mind it's not the end of the world to strip it off and redecorate, but I just loathe wallpaper in general (and definitely that particular wallpaper). It's so twee and garish, but that kind of thing is all over photos on Houzz at the moment, so what do I know.

If he has wallpaper everywhere that normally indicates significant wife influence, so he's probably also pussy whipped just to add to his woes.
 
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Started work on the bathroom. First step, is the sub-floor suitable. For context this used to be a bedroom, which we've split in two and are now making a bathroom where there wasn't one previously.

I'm getting an engineer to come round on Monday to do the maths, but thought I'd ask here as well because I know there's some mech/structural engineers on here. The clear span is 3.71m, they are 'true' (1950s built) 2"x7" i.e. 51mm x 178mm. The bath will go across the width of the back. So the weight of the bath will span 5 joists.

I've exposed 2, the plan is to sort that side, then I'll clear the other side, doing it in halves always gives me a platform to work on.




I'm hoping either a) they don't need strengthening or b) I can strengthen them with ply sistering.

Also I was hoping to do something like this with the subfloor:


By having the plywood subfloor level with the top of the joists, it means I only have to add tile backer boards + tiles on top of the height of the joists. Which means the height difference into the hallway shouldn't be so bad. In the hallway it's 18mm floorboards on top of the joists, then 6mm ply, then ~3mm lvt.
Using the flexible adhesive to level the tile backer boards + electric ufh + tiles + tile adhesive I'm hoping they come out at similar heights.
 
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Mason- said:
By having the plywood subfloor level
Click to expand...

I'm a DIY noob so I'm asking out of interest rather than questioning, but why are you supporting the ply with more ply?

When replacing floorboards people say to essentially build a frame (to put the ply board on) using studwork timber glued and screwed into the joists, I think it's called sistering.

Like this video 4:40 onwards, although not the best video: https://youtu.be/97kOvvgqLvg?si=jciaiL2T5t9DLb0Q
 
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Mason- said:
Started work on the bathroom. First step, is the sub-floor suitable. For context this used to be a bedroom, which we've split in two and are now making a bathroom where there wasn't one previously.

I'm getting an engineer to come round on Monday to do the maths, but thought I'd ask here as well because I know there's some mech/structural engineers on here. The clear span is 3.71m, they are 'true' (1950s built) 2"x7" i.e. 51mm x 178mm. The bath will go across the width of the back. So the weight of the bath will span 5 joists.

I've exposed 2, the plan is to sort that side, then I'll clear the other side, doing it in halves always gives me a platform to work on.




I'm hoping either a) they don't need strengthening or b) I can strengthen them with ply sistering.

Also I was hoping to do something like this with the subfloor:


By having the plywood subfloor level with the top of the joists, it means I only have to add tile backer boards + tiles on top of the height of the joists. Which means the height difference into the hallway shouldn't be so bad. In the hallway it's 18mm floorboards on top of the joists, then 6mm ply, then ~3mm lvt.
Using the flexible adhesive to level the tile backer boards + electric ufh + tiles + tile adhesive I'm hoping they come out at similar heights.
Click to expand...
more diagrams


 
GarethSouthgate said:
I'm a DIY noob so I'm asking out of interest rather than questioning, but why are you supporting the ply with more ply?

When replacing floorboards people say to essentially build a frame (to put the ply board on) using studwork timber glued and screwed into the joists, I think it's called sistering.

Like this video 4:40 onwards, although not the best video: https://youtu.be/97kOvvgqLvg?si=jciaiL2T5t9DLb0Q
Click to expand...
You can sister with ply. Doesn't have to be lumber.
 
Buffman said:
Put some doors on my shed

DSaQE94.jpeg


S0cuD9f.jpeg
Click to expand...
I think you can stop calling it a "shed" now, it is a house :)
 
Fitted and connected up the new washer dryer, which was fun due to its incredible sticky non slips feet and having to slide it under a worktop.
Painted hallway ceiling and refitted downlights.
 
DXP55 said:
I put furniture polish on floor where washer was to go and it just slid in.

PS -I did tile under there first
Click to expand...
Good tip

I did briefly consider washing up liquid, but you know how it is, under a worktop in 200°c heat and bent double with a dishwasher blocking any quick escape and just giving it that last 100 pushes before you consider the washing up liquid :cry:
 

Rentokil PSW97 Wasp Destroy Foam Aerosol on the entry point where wasp have been really active, 5-6 in and out at any one point. Waited until dark and spray into the opening just under my roof....​


Defiantly not bee and I would love to co habit but these are so aggressive and I can't even walk past it to my bin area with out a few tailing me as I swiftly duck and walk pass them
 
Made a start on building the garage floor from 2x4. Cleared the rubble off the floor to try and avoid puncturing the damp proof membrane when we lay it. Cut the framing timbers to size and had to spend a lot of time correcting the wall where DPC is bridged or bricks are sticking out...

Tomorrow will be drilling the walls and cutting joists to size. Then can lay the DPM and fit all of the timber.
 
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