Manchester House (cross post from Trip Advisor...)
I'd written a lengthy review before realising I'd wasted five paragraphs on the experience between entering the building and going to our table (via the bar), which lasted all of 30 minutes, and only spent two paragraphs praising the restaurant.
In short, if you're offered the chance to go for a drink in the bar while your table is readied (note: not sure what they were getting ready as we were on time for our reservation), especially on a Saturday night, politely decline and either offer to come back later or see if there is a seat available in the restaurant for a cocktail. The bar is great if you want to be deafened by middle aged (yet curiously childish) birthday parties, be side eyed by bleached blonde WAGs or confuse the staff by ordering esoteric drinks like a gin martini. Quietly confident I didn't invent that one otherwise I'd have put my name to it. Otherwise, I'd recommend arriving bang on time. It's a shame as it's a lovely room and the drinks menu is great but if it's aiming for casual sophistication then it's a fair way short of that.
I digress. We were lucky enough to have the tasting menu and wine pairing once we did sit down at our table. It was our first time in the restaurant itself and I was really impressed with the layout. It's spacious, uncluttered, with good size tables and the large open kitchen being a nice focal point. If you can, request one of the booths that face it if you're into that sort of thing.
The food was also really good - clear the place is beginning to hit its stride - and captured modern British cooking really well with influences drawn pretty widely. I liked the little riffs on what are staple flavours now: curry, tacos and sushi. They were nice homages with enough of a twist to not go too far down the deconstruction route. Other highlights were the ox cheek with garlic and bread sauce and a scallop dish with a simple Japanese style dressing. Really good stuff.
Following our main dish, we thought we would try the cheese course, having it pre-dessert in true French (the nation, not the competing restaurant) style. The cumin crackers and oat biscuits were really nicely made but I was a bit disappointed by the lack of British cheeses. Despite having a strong cheese growing heritage, we seem to be a bit embarrassed to dish it up in restaurants. Why not? I'd much sooner try something local and unusual (or at least have the choice to) than another same-y block of Manchego, Camembert or Brie. I know others have said they feel the restaurant sometimes plays it a bit safe (and looking at the a la carte mains, I perhaps agree) and this felt like one of those times.
Of the final sweet dishes, the only course that fell a bit flat for me was an gooseberry/pastry/apple sorbet dessert that just had a bit too much acid. The sorbet by itself was nicely done but just overwhelmed everything else a bit. I got what they were going for but it was a bit much, like biting into a Bramley and instantly regretting it. It was however more than made up for by the other desserts, including the Refresher which always seems to go down well in other reviews (and has more than a nod to Heston Blumenthal's influence, right down to the popping candy) and a really well balanced chocolate mousse/cherry plate to finish.
On final points, the wine pairings were really enjoyable and imaginative, and left us inspired to pick up a few bottles which doesn't often happen. The service in the restaurant was also excellent - a complete contrast to the bar - with our host for the evening (I'm sorry I didn't catch her name) being really friendly, enthusiastic about the food and wine, and knowledgeable. Within minutes of sitting down at our table we felt at ease and comfortable and it went from there. Within minutes of sitting down at the bar, we were still meerkatting around the room trying to get someone's attention and totally confused about whether there was table service or not.
To conclude, I'm not sure if MH is still pushing for Michelin recognition or not (it's far from the be all and end all), but sticking a fusty inspector in a lift with a hen party to start the evening would mean the restaurant is probably already snookered. At the prices charged, a place like this needs to be an exceptional experience and not just a great meal. Indeed, it seemed appropriate in many ways that our evening was capped off by an issue with the bill (the manager was very apologetic about the whole thing, but it was a little bit unprofessional that it happened in the first place). That was then followed by us opting to be led down the stairs to get out because the lift was full of squealing, hammered people. Your 12 courses of food have to be pretty exceptional to make up for suffering three courses of tedious lift banter (and, in my wife's case, worse than that courtesy of some odd woman's wandering hands).