What retro things have you done today?

Do I need to stop buying PCs?
Yes
Did i just pick this up for £12?
Also yes.

Includes

"EVGA Nvidia 790i Ultra Sli Motherboard

Pentium 4 (Cedar Mill) 661 HT

DDR3 Corsair Dominator GT rated for 2000mhz 8/9/8/24 @ 1.65V 2x2GB

Alphacool cpu water block

Soundblaster audigy 2 sound card

1.44mb floppy disk drive
Dvd player

Kingston 60GB SSD
Western Digital 150GB Velociraptor Enterprise Sata HDD"

I Just need to add a PSU and GPU but it was sold as working and was a local pickup so really should not be a drama.
The sticker inside it is a windows 98SE COA which is random..
 
It would have been a crime to turn down a that PC!

It's also a crime to leave that PC with such a meh CPU - but I guess it supports the idea that it was some kind of extreme Windows 98 build.

I hope you're going to tri-SLI something in it!
 
Pre-Overclocked as well?
Yep, just under 4ghz. It was under water. All the WC gear was removed except the cpu block... I have fitted my coolermaster hyper
It would have been a crime to turn down a that PC!

It's also a crime to leave that PC with such a meh CPU - but I guess it supports the idea that it was some kind of extreme Windows 98 build.

I hope you're going to tri-SLI something in it!


The case has this on it!
I am torn between making some epic tribute to the P4 (But effectively wasting this motherboard) and a C2Q tri SLI XP/vista monster. I would likely go for 3x 8800GTS/Ultra although that could be an expensive route.
All of these games installed seem to run without the CDs too... Just spent a while on HALO and Q3A :D :D
Over the moon with this one really..
 
lol what the hell is that a sticker or part of the case? You might be able to heat it up/remove it from the case and frame it :p

Ha, I still have my Halo disk dump complete with CD key, the weirdly recent official patch that removes the need for the CD and some app I must have downloaded at some point called HaloKeyRecoverer, I guess I lost my manual after I had installed the game. It installs and runs fine (and has EAX audio on XP if you're into that) like this and is still a staple in any XP build I do!

If you want really expensive you could track down a P4EE which I think was 2C/4T. I'm sure a mid range C2D would wipe the floor with it but still an interesting CPU.
 
Its just a sticker but pretty cool! I was a bit keen with my excitement on the no-cd games but halo, Q3A and UT99 all worked great.
I think I'm going to chase down a top tier quad for it, at least one thats not got the best in slot tax. I will try and remove the sticker carefully! Seems a waste of such an enthusiast board to have the P4 in it.
This has well and truly screwed up my XP build plans as I already had 2.5 machines trying for that spot!
 
I think I got the best bargain when it comes to a 775 machine! I had this off CyberMav a few years ago now for £50.

C2Q Q9650 overclocked to 3.6ghz (I think)
Some high end Gigabyte Motherboard
8gb of OCZ Reaper
MSI Nvidia GTX 560ti
SSD & removable 500gb HDD
550Watt Antec PSU

I have Windows XP on it although it originally had Win10 on it! Still have it and added a Creative XFi Fatalaty card to it ages ago which i got for a tenner!

K0rkUaAh.jpg
NuxeKSrh.jpg
wfUACeNh.jpg

Be interesting to see what you you do with that machine Lewis. I have that Same EVGA board but a PCI-E slot is busted.
 
@cee-S-dee glad its come in handy and served you well, i loved that case too, was very solid in build the metal just felt thicker than other cases iv dealt with. that cooler the sunbeamtech core contact freezer is not too bad too. dont forget if you ever pass through coventry again iv kept the lower drive cage for that case safe for you in the shed, feel free to collect it any time.

that computers home was behind my bed for may years never used, and now another interesting computer has taken its spot which will probably never end up being used too lol. dunno what it is with me and hoarding computers, i keep thinking i will use it somewhere some day but that day never comes lol.

and crazy thing is the price of a q9650 is crazy now hhahah.
 
Apple ][ PSU is currently with an old gent who lives locally to me. I think I can be confident that he knows what he's doing. :D
I do know what he used to do for work as well which reinforces that, but I can't really share.

7vzlyu5.jpg

OVXQ6y2.jpg

People like this, older generation with a passion and a shed... They are the most interesting people to stand and talk to.
I think I was there for an hour or so, I only intended to drop it off and leave. :p
 
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Apple ][ PSU is currently with an old gent who lives locally to me. I think I can be confident that he knows what he's doing. :D
I do know what he used to do for work as well which reinforces that, but I can't really share.

7vzlyu5.jpg

OVXQ6y2.jpg

People like this, older generation wish a passion and a shed... They are the most interesting people to stand and talk to.
I think I was there for an hour or so, I only intended to drop it off and leave. :p
Wow.. reminds me of when I worked at Toshiba (Plymouth), some of the repair techs and service engineers had that level of kit!
 
I am having some serious trouble getting a new PS1 laser to just bloody work.
I have bought several from Ebay over the years, all of which are either dead on arrival (various reasons) or just don't work.

My latest (and possibly last) new laser has arrived - Some ebay unit that was <£20. It did not read discs as it was, so I have performed some trial and error on the laser.
I just can't find a 'happy place' for it. The variable resister is so sensitive that the most minor of adjustments takes a lot of trial and error. Each time I check with a multimeter.
Most guides don't help as they have significantly different resistances. This is probably due to them being the original 1990s laser unit.

I wanted to keep the console as I did some minor work on the motherboard (I am RUBBISH at soldering!). I have a softmodded memory card that forces my PAL collection to run at 60hz, which doesn't work on the PS2 or I would give up and buy a PS2! I would expect most used PS1s to be knackered by now.

I don't have an oscilloscope to check waveforms. I wondered if anyone has any advice?

Reading (2kOhm setting)Reads genuine?Reads CDR?Comments
909​
NoNo
Stock
620​
NoNoAlmost read genuine once as audio
553​
NoNoNothing
475​
No/rarelyYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.In all instances could not run cut scene
364​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.CDR not as good as 325 was.
356​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.
Read copy boots up to cut scene.
332​
YesYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Struggled on genuine. Read copy boots up to cut scene.
325​
YesYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Struggled on genuine. Read copy boots up to cut scene.
322​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Not happy with either
318​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Struggled on genuine. Read copy OK but 325 better.
271​
NoNoCould not recognise disc but felt like it was almost there.
23​
NoNoDisc span very fast - Not even early stages of recognition
 
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I am having some serious trouble getting a new PS1 laser to just bloody work.
I have bought several from Ebay over the years, all of which are either dead on arrival (various reasons) or just don't work.

My latest (and possibly last) new laser has arrived - Some ebay unit that was <£20. It did not read discs as it was, so I have performed some trial and error on the laser.
I just can't find a 'happy place' for it. The variable resister is so sensitive that the most minor of adjustments takes a lot of trial and error. Each time I check with a multimeter.
Most guides don't help as they have significantly different resistances. This is probably due to them being the original 1990s laser unit.

I wanted to keep the console as I did some minor work on the motherboard (I am RUBBISH at soldering!). I have a softmodded memory card that forces my PAL collection to run at 60hz, which doesn't work on the PS2 or I would give up and buy a PS2! I would expect most used PS1s to be knackered by now.

I don't have an oscilloscope to check waveforms. I wondered if anyone has any advice?

Reading (2kOhm setting)Reads genuine?Reads CDR?Comments
909​
NoNo
Stock
620​
NoNoAlmost read genuine once as audio
553​
NoNoNothing
475​
No/rarelyYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.In all instances could not run cut scene
364​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.CDR not as good as 325 was.
356​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.
Read copy boots up to cut scene.
332​
YesYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Struggled on genuine. Read copy boots up to cut scene.
325​
YesYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Struggled on genuine. Read copy boots up to cut scene.
322​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Not happy with either
318​
NoYes - Cut scene crashes console and laser makes clicky noise.Struggled on genuine. Read copy OK but 325 better.
271​
NoNoCould not recognise disc but felt like it was almost there.
23​
NoNoDisc span very fast - Not even early stages of recognition

Come speak to me in my thread - I have like 10 ps1 lasers :) All tested working and pulled from consoles I did Mods on :) from experience a lot of the lasers that come "new" dont work... I went through about 6 lasers on a PS2 to find one that was remotely serviceable. I can just ship you a legit proper working original laser for postage costs :)
 
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Come speak to me in my thread - I have like 10 ps1 lasers :) All tested working and pulled from consoles I did Mods on :) from experience a lot of the lasers that come "new" dont work... I went through about 6 lasers on a PS2 to find one that was remotely serviceable. I can just ship you a legit proper working original laser for postage costs :)
Thanks - Will do!
 
After fixing a VIC-20 for a friend the other week, and seeing how nice/easy they are to work on, I thought I’d take a peek on eBay and get some ‘spares or repairs’ computers from my childhood, before the end of the weekend, I’d grabbed:
1. Commodore 128D - advertised as good condition, but was tripping their RCD, had been repaired by a little known YouTuber previously, looked OK in photos, not many left and probably the one I remember well as I was in my teens when we had one.
2. BBC Micro Model B - just said the PSU was making noises and might need recapping, but stated as VVGood condition.
3. C64 Bread bin, advertised as good condition and shows rolling rf output.

Two of them turned up today, C128D and the Beeb..


BBC Model B - I was amazed how clean it was, 9.5/10 and very uniform slightly yellow, but about the exact colour I remember at Junior school being let loose on one. On getting the PSU (Wong) out, everything looked OK, no obvious cap issues at all and after 30 mins of checking everything I could in-circuit, I fired up the PSU unloaded and it was spot on, so checked the main board and no shorts, all looked OK, so reassembled, turned on, and ‘beep’, looks to be powering up, and instantly noticed a noisy speaker.. checked YouTube and seems an easy fix, and I am now wondering if the seller mistook that for noise coming from the PSU!.. I’ll hook it up to a monitor tomorrow, and will order a recap kit anyway, but might have struck gold on this one!
0J8h7pJh.jpg
Doesn’t look so yellow in real, camera WB seems to be struggling.

9qOUk1ah.jpg

Commodore C128D - total opposite to the Beeb, 5/10 condition, slight damage to case tabs, corners, yellowing (patchy), and very dirty with a dose of corrosion and heavy oxidisation of metalwork..

QPPp9Zsh.jpg
(The rf module can is 100% rusty)
This is a project and is worth saving as they are medium rare and should be salvageable, it shares the main board with the regular c128, so worse case I could always swap that out, but will try to save.
The PSU was a surprise:
ChXQax5h.jpg
The ‘youtuber’ fitted a Meanwell PSU and 9V AC transformer, however, a catalogue of ‘oversights’:
1. They’d cut up some plastic cabinet corner brackets and epoxied them to the base, then half screwed in some self tappers, but 3 of them had broken away from the epoxy and the PSU was flapping around inside.
2. Being on plastic brackets, they used some ground braid and soldered two ground wires to the PSU PCBA, screwing the ground braid to the base. Unfortunately, the moment the PSU became loose, it pivoted over the ground braid (exposed copper) and shorted out quite a bit on the PSU.
3. Inexcusably they’d used some inappropriately thin wire for incoming mains to the PSU and ac transformer, certainly not rated for 13A.. I guess the rationale was that the PSU should only draw 60W max, and even less for the 9V AC, except guess what fuse was in the (poorly fitted) plug on the supplied IEC? Yup.. 13A.. had the short been on the incoming side, that would have certainly got quite toasty.

On getting the PSU out the housing, with it no longer shorted, it checked out OK, enough to power in unloaded, but doing so revealed it was dead, no DC at all.. so did some digging, the non resettable radial fuse on the incoming neutral was blown…

The plan is to:
- Get a new meanwell PSU, as this one has been shorted badly, and is not easy to work on and might get something with better protection.
- 3D print a proper holder for the PSU and put in a top mounted grounding solution to the chassis.
- I will keep the small 9V AC transformer, that’s intact, but will put a fuse inline on the primary so if anyone does put a 13A fused IEC lead, it’ll be protected!
- strip all boards, clean, clean and clean some more… then do some electrical checks and go from there.

[edit] - The PSU is a mean we’ll RPD-75A which is actually not bad, medically approved with 2 MOPP of isolation and overspecced at 75W , so applaud the choice.., so might see if it’s just that radial fuse (can bodge a link across to try it), but cant Find a schematic so fault finding is a bit limited for me.. I can take a stab at the main rail generation paths, but their is a lot if protection circuitry that I’m not familiar with.

Ive got basic electrical/electronics knowledge (degree) and years of ‘proper’ software engineering, but there is a reason I needed up doing software and not hardware.. my brain can’t handle ‘analogue’.
 
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