I have them on the speaker side but the Yamaha unit doesn't take them. Maybe I need to use some cable crimps...
Yamaha RS202D & Dali SPEKTOR 2 - need Bass
- Thread starter Dirk Diggler
- Start date
I have them on the speaker side but the Yamaha unit doesn't take them. Maybe I need to use some cable crimps...
I didn't realise it was so small
Anyway, space isn't an issue any more so a larger unit would be fine - but white is out, unfortunately.
Soldato
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Use spring clip connectors they're a rod with groove so the cable clamp slips into the groove
Look at the bk xls400 and monoprice 10" ported
Look at the bk xls400 and monoprice 10" ported
Any decent sub that includes high-level (speaker level) connections should also include a low level (line/LFE-level) input on single or stereo RCAs, so all your "now & future" bases are covered.
That's no good for your right now as it doesn't include speaker-level connections. It only has Line/LFE on RCA. You don't have a subwoofer output on an RCA on the Yamaha amp, so you can't marry up the Dali sub unless you change the amp. TL
R don't buy the Dali sub, it won't work for you.1) Why are you thinking that you'll connect the sub to
?
Your music signal is stereo. That means two channels; a left and a right. Subs may well be a mono speaker, but it still needs a stereo signal summed down to mono so that the bass from both channels is represented. The summing is either done in the source amp with a single sub out socket on RCA, or it's done inside the sub's pre-amp circuit where the sub gets either a stereo hi-level signal or a stereo low-level signal.
It's going to sound flipping weird if you only give the sub a signal for one channel rather than both. Are you even bothering to pay attention to what you're doing or are you just wasting everyone's time?
2) You don't need thick speaker cable for the sub.
The hi-level connection for the sub isn't pulling any appreciable current from the amp, so it doesn't need to use a thick cable. You only need thick cables when there's a lot of current moving about. I'll give you a direct and applicable example.
Your speakers are rated at 6 Ohms. Your amp is rated at 85W/ch at 0.2% THD. If you run the volume loud enough to generate 85W/ch in to a 6 Ohm load, then ignoring any additional power losses due to phase angle, and treating the speaker as a straight DC resistance, then the current flowing through the speaker wire is given by 85/6 = I^2. So the square root of 85/6 is 3.76. This means there's 3.76 amps of current flowing when the volume is high. If you're running at a lower volume then the current will be lower too, but it gives us a number to work with.
In the case of the BK XLS200 (£350), the hi-level input isn't 6 or 8 Ohms. It's 100,000 Ohms. The same calculation for 85W of power gives us 85/100,000 = I^2. The result is 0.03 amps, or 30 milliamps. This is the equivalent of your 6 Ohm Dali speakers drawing 0.05W of power from the Yamaha.
I realise that this is a lot of numbers to get your head around. The bottom line here is that you could flow 30 milliamps through a bit of copper wire the the thickness of some cotton. you don't need fat speaker wires to run the sub's hi-level connection.
If you went for the BK or a similar sub with a Speakon connector, then the cable and connection to your amp looks like this:
The bare wire diameter is about 1~1.5mm across. That'll fit in the same spring clip terminal holes on the back of the Yam as your speaker wire. You don't need to change your current speaker wire.
Also, did you pay attention to the wires? There are three; a yellow, a red and a black. The yellow and the red are the signal left and signal right connections - you know, for stereo - and the black is the common ground. This means the sub is summing the stereo signal to mono inside its pre-amp circuit.
Ok, you've been really helpful and I do appreciate it. However, you'll need to understand that if you want to assist people who are clearly at novice level then it'll take some patience.
The reason I thought I had to connect the sub with one of the Spektors was due to this exchange earlier in the thread.
So, going by the image you posted of the connecting cable, I can see that I need a single +ve cable connection to each speaker with a common ground from any one of them, hence the 3 core connection to the sub.
By the way, I'm an approved electrician therefore I understand the current explanation regarding cable size.
Anyway, thanks for the time you've taken to respond and genuine apologies if you think I was ignoring your advice.
Soldato
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Another option is buy a sub with high pass, high level input/output.
One example is the old svs SB 12+. I had one. You wire up the sub to the amp via speaker cable. Then wire the speakers to the sub via speaker cable.
The sub diverts high frequency onto the speakers and diverts low frequencies to the sub..basically like analogue high pass.
It's good if you find speakers are attempting to eproducing too much bass, worst case example if you have Cambridge audio minx and connect to a amplifier.
One example is the old svs SB 12+. I had one. You wire up the sub to the amp via speaker cable. Then wire the speakers to the sub via speaker cable.
The sub diverts high frequency onto the speakers and diverts low frequencies to the sub..basically like analogue high pass.
It's good if you find speakers are attempting to eproducing too much bass, worst case example if you have Cambridge audio minx and connect to a amplifier.
I just bought a REL T Zero MkIII from my local Richer Sounds they price matched it with another online retailer selling it for £349 and knocked a tenner off so I got it for £339. I also have a pair of Dali Spektor 2's and they work really well together. It's amazing how much more enjoyable listening to music is with a sub, so I'd recommend it.
REL reccomended using the supplied high level cable and it's easy to cable in, this was ideal as my CA AXA35 has no sub connection.
REL reccomended using the supplied high level cable and it's easy to cable in, this was ideal as my CA AXA35 has no sub connection.
Soldato
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It's barely a sub 6.5" and 37hz at 6db? My standmounts pretty much same f3
But neither I or the OP have your standmounts. I like the OP wanted something to boost the bass of Dali Spektor 2's, I contacted REL and asked for their recommendation based on my equipment and room size and they said the T Zero would be a good choice, they did say the T5 would offer more performance but it is too big for my room. The OP has the option to buy the T Zero from Richer Sounds and return if he doesn't get on with it but I'm pretty sure he will.
Soldato
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Then get a 10" sub 6.5" is not a sub it's a midwoofer
No thanks, I'm more than happy with the T Zero, it has its own 100 watt amp and all the bass I need. REL specialise in subs, it's all they make, they know what they're doing.
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Oh they do? What do they say about how to setup a sub in a AV system?
Minimum I'd consider is 10" sealed box sub
Soldato
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£400 for 6.5" sealed box with 100w amp and light in weight
Lol ..ripped off mate
Get bk Gemini or xls200 instead. Or get two Gemini for even more even response.
Lol ..ripped off mate
Get bk Gemini or xls200 instead. Or get two Gemini for even more even response.
Yeah you're right, my personal experience of a product, my communication with the manufacturer about the right product for my needs, my time with Richer Sounds getting their recommendations and insight, my demoing different subs at the store, the fact that I was in the same position as the OP and found a solution that I can personally recommend, this is all irrelevant to the OP and he should only listen to your self opinionated posts based on nothing but personal bias. I'll go back to the hole I came from and no longer challenge your obvious superior insight, +1 to my ignore list.
Soldato
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OP don't listen to this whiney little ***** bought a expensive midwoofer rofl.
Look at BK Gemini, Double Gem, XLS 200, XLS400, SVS SB1000, Monoprice 10"
Thanks all for the help, I genuinely appreciate it. I'm going to nip into Richer Sounds this week and see if I can pick something up.
I'll post back with an update.
I'll post back with an update.
Soldato
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I have one of those. It ain't bad, but I'd say get something a bit better. It's a small ported box.
It has limited crossover adjustment, 85hz is highest position- you may want to use a lower crossover than that if you have bigger speakers.
Okay, but in post #10 I dealt explicitly with the 3-core cable connection:
I wrote that the day after the post you quoted. Also, regarding being a novice, you've been at this for a year and a half by the looks of the age of the thread.
Richer Sounds were hopeless, with no stock. I'm struggling to find any of these models anywhere, some seem quite older models now so maybe EOL or maybe this is the usual Brexit/logistics issues?
If you see any anywhere and remember to link me that would be great, else I think I'm going to end up with a soundbar!
