Your current Fish tank Setups!

rodo · 18 Nov 2014 at 07:32

Struggled on rocks at nearest fish store and went to Maidenhead Aquatics in Reading where they had quite a big selection of rock types. This one just seemed to fit the look we were going for.

robfosters · 18 Nov 2014 at 08:00

Brookert said:
Lovely! Where did you get that rock from?

It's called Dragon Stone rock.

arc@css · 18 Nov 2014 at 16:32

Could do with a bit of advice here.

I'm more or less certain one of my cherry barbs has a swim bladder problem; he 'hangs' around the middle of the tank head down at approximately a 35 degree angle.

So far, what I've gathered is the following. Please chip in with any thoughts.

stop feeding flake food (remove dried bloodworm the last);
could try turning up the temps to speed up his metabolism a bit (currently @ 26C);
try frozen peas with the shells removed;
use some epsom salt / magnesium sulphate;
a live meal of daphnia / bloodworm should help / prevent it from recurring;
stop feeding altogether for a few days;
temporarily lower the water level to reduce the pressure on his body;

The other thing I have noticed is that since going over to using the salifert testing kit range, the nitrate level is higher than detected on the lower quality API one. Does seachem do anything to help with this? The only product of theirs that I've got at the mo is prime.

Cheers.

robfosters · 18 Nov 2014 at 16:37

What's the nitrate reading?

arc@css · 18 Nov 2014 at 16:38

It'a little hard to be certain tbh, Rob (I find these colour tests - even the good ones like this a little vague at the best of times). I would say somewhere between 25 - 50. The previous test kit read more like 10 - 15. :/

I need to get it down to 20 or less.

arc@css · 18 Nov 2014 at 16:43

Just checking out some other info here; maybe seachem's stability might be a decent starting point?

robfosters · 18 Nov 2014 at 16:54

i don't think Stability will really help you. Why do you need it 20 or under?

If you must get it down, Seachem Matrix or Purigen is a better bet. Also, ensure you are cleaning the substrate well. Breaking down detritus and plant matter rockets nitrates. Maybe up your water change volume as well.

arc@css · 18 Nov 2014 at 17:07

robfosters said:
i don't think Stability will really help you. Why do you need it 20 or under?

If you must get it down, Seachem Matrix or Purigen is a better bet. Also, ensure you are cleaning the substrate well. Breaking down detritus and plant matter rockets nitrates. Maybe up your water change volume as well.

I've consistently read over the years that 20 or under is desirable for freshwater fish. Although I appreciate some species won't be too fussed if it's a little over, I would like to keep it in check. Maybe the vegetable matter I give to the plecs and corys is taking its toll.

I'll look into matrix and / or purigen. I currently perform two water changes a week (10 - 15% each time).

I found some interesting reading matter on the wet web :

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwnitrates.htm

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm

I've now ordered some purigen and also 'flourish' for the plants.

robfosters · 19 Nov 2014 at 14:57

Some new Sterbai's. There's three but the others have buggered off under the driftwood. All a bit quiet at the moment, but that will change when they settle in.

Caught the other 3 dudes.

King4aDay · 19 Nov 2014 at 15:49

arc@css said:
Just checking out some other info here; maybe seachem's stability might be a decent starting point?

The solution to pollution is dilution. More water changes and cleaning or less fish/food.

arc@css · 19 Nov 2014 at 16:52

King4aDay said:
The solution to pollution is dilution. More water changes and cleaning or less fish/food.

I don't think it's any of the above. I'm very careful when it comes to feeding, and I always do two 10 - 15% changes per week. However, I think I have discovered the source of the nitrate (which is also potential culprit for swim bladder problems) : the outside tap. I've just tested the water before intending to add it, and it reads a similar level. It's fine (so we're told) for human consumption, but it's not going in my tank anymore. Thankfully, my drinking water has a ceramic filter attached to it. Interestingly, after testing the tap water with the salifert kit, I also tested a sample with the less accurate API kit. That read no more than 20...

Anyway, I'm off to the store to get some R.O. water tomorrow.

robfosters · 19 Nov 2014 at 17:38

Be aware that while reducing nitrate, introducing unmineralised RO will also bring down your hardness and PH. So it's best not to switch too much. Just settle on tap or RO.

It's good to have some RO though as it's what should be used when you top up evaporated water.

arc@css · 19 Nov 2014 at 17:44

robfosters said:
Be aware that while reducing nitrate, introducing unmineralised RO will also bring down your hardness and PH. So it's best not to switch too much. Just settle on tap or RO.

It's good to have some RO though as it's what should be used when you top up evaporated water.

Yeah, I was thinking along those same lines just moments ago. I don't mind the pH lowering a little, but the hardness has been intentionally increased over the last couple of months (GH from 1 to now 6), so as long as I keep adding the minerals I should be okay. I used to use RO years ago, and I remember having nitrates good enough for a marine set up.

King4aDay · 19 Nov 2014 at 17:57

Ah yeah, fair enough on the tap nitrates then. I'm used to having tap water with <5 ppm nitrate in it.

robfosters · 19 Nov 2014 at 17:58

I use RO, but it's a case of having to really with my tapwater and soft water fish.

A good RO unit is not expensive really, and the plumbing is minimal.

arc@css · 19 Nov 2014 at 18:13

King4aDay said:
Ah yeah, fair enough on the tap nitrates then. I'm used to having tap water with <5 ppm nitrate in it.

Unfortunately, where I live I need to have a filter attached to the sink for our drinking water, so I guess it's no surprise that the outside / cold water tap water is like it is.

arc@css · 19 Nov 2014 at 18:14

robfosters said:
I use RO, but it's a case of having to really with my tapwater and soft water fish.

A good RO unit is not expensive really, and the plumbing is minimal.

I used to have an RO unit, but in hindsight, I think I probably should have spent a bit more on one. It's all such a long time ago now.

robfosters · 19 Nov 2014 at 22:46

arc@css said:
I used to have an RO unit, but in hindsight, I think I probably should have spent a bit more on one. It's all such a long time ago now.

I'm not sure how big your tank is, but a 50GPD unit should be fine.

The best place for one is www.osmotics.co.uk

Units come fully assembled with filters and media already in and tubing done. All you need to do is tap it in to your feed and waste.

This is my setup. It's in a cupboard behind the shower. I tap into the pushfit cold feed with an on/off acetal angle valve (which you can see to the bottom middle) and the black tube, which is waste, is just popped into the shower when running. There is 10m of blue tubing to run it into a big tub right next to my tank.

Works a treat.

arc@css · 19 Nov 2014 at 23:05

Very nice.

My tank is only a four footer...210 litres...so 46 gallons?

robfosters · 19 Nov 2014 at 23:12

arc@css said:
Very nice.

My tank is only a four footer...210 litres...so 46 gallons?

50GPD plenty. You only change maximum 84 litres a week. The unit will knock that out in about 8 hours as long as your water pressure is around 50psi. Water pressure is a massive factor. Mine's only 40psi and it drops it to around 25 litres every 6 hours. But that's still plenty.