Your current Fish tank Setups!

Euro_Hunter said:
Eheim supply Vaseline with their filters so I wouldn't think it would be too bad:confused:
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Nope. What Eheim supply is silicone based, not petroleum. Over time the petroleum product will destroy seals.

If you've put vaseline on it, I'd suggest buying new seals and replacing them.
 
gillywibble said:
Tetra Goldmed contains Malachite Green which is excellent for treating whitespot.

The time it takes to clear up depends predominantly on water temperature, because the parasite Ich has a several stage life cycle.

When I have had outbreaks of white spot in the past, I have raised the water temperature gradually, added the treatment and then re-added the treatment again on day 4. The systems have always cleared within one to two weeks.
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Thanks gillywibble,

I did a water change (about 20%) and dosed again on day 4 and today when I checked the spots certainly seem to be clearing up. I shall dose again in 4 days time and hopefully that will be the last dose, although I may dose again after that.

I'm now noticing some blood in her tail though, and she seems to be having a spot of bother with her swimbladder. Is it likely that this will all clear up as well or will they require seperate treatments?
 
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This is what came with my filter

WP_20130830_004_zps760a7853.jpg
 
I can't find anything through Google that would suggest there is a silicone based Vaseline. Pretty sure the one they supply is petroleum based. And there is no mention of a silicone based one in the manuals. :confused:
 
NorthstaNder said:
Thanks gillywibble,

I did a water change (about 20%) and dosed again on day 4 and today when I checked the spots certainly seem to be clearing up. I shall dose again in 4 days time and hopefully that will be the last dose, although I may dose again after that.
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I presume you have removed your carbon filters, just something I forgot to mention in my last post?

NorthstaNder said:
I'm now noticing some blood in her tail though, and she seems to be having a spot of bother with her swimbladder. Is it likely that this will all clear up as well or will they require seperate treatments?
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Blood in the tail could be an ammonia issue, unlikely to be related to white spot.

What tank size, number and age of fish? What are your ammonia, nitrite and PH levels?

Regarding the swim bladder, is it a constant problem or worse after feeding? Many young fish gulp air during feeding which can cause floating.
 
gillywibble said:
I presume you have removed your carbon filters, just something I forgot to mention in my last post?



Blood in the tail could be an ammonia issue, unlikely to be related to white spot.

What tank size, number and age of fish? What are your ammonia, nitrite and PH levels?

Regarding the swim bladder, is it a constant problem or worse after feeding? Many young fish gulp air during feeding which can cause floating.
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Only sponge in the filter so that's no problem.

Tank approx 5 weeks old, housing one young fantail. Tank size is 20 litre hence only one fish (try telling a 4 year old we can only get one, lol!) But I have a larger tank in the loft which I'll set up when I have the time so Rapunzel (let your kids name a fish at your peril!) can have a bigger home! She (he?) has been in the tank just over a week.

I don't have any test kits at the moment. Will be getting one this week, but in the meantime I'm doing small but frequent water changes.

The blood in the tail and swimbladder seem to be improved this morning. Looks like Rapunzel will pull through! :)
 
NorthstaNder said:
I don't have any test kits at the moment. Will be getting one this week, but in the meantime I'm doing small but frequent water changes.

The blood in the tail and swimbladder seem to be improved this morning. Looks like Rapunzel will pull through! :)
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Most likely due to the water not being completely cycled. Definitely get a test kit to check and continue your small water changes.

Good luck :)
 
gillywibble said:
Most likely due to the water not being completely cycled. Definitely get a test kit to check and continue your small water changes.

Good luck :)
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I will, thank you mate.

Just been having a look at her again and I've noticed that when she stops swimming she very slowly rises to the top of the water. A couple of days ago she was bobbing around like a cork!

So things are definitely looking up :)
 
NorthstaNder said:
Just been having a look at her again and I've noticed that when she stops swimming she very slowly rises to the top of the water. A couple of days ago she was bobbing around like a cork!
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This is most likely due to air in the stool. Protein is difficult for young fish to digest.

The solution is to feed your fish a pea occasionally (or once a day as I do, they love them!) which aids bowel movement.

Take a frozen pea and microwave it for 30 seconds. Cool and remove the outer shell, then feed. Cooked broccoli is also excellent.
 
I've just bought a 120l tank on Saturday, set it all up and am adding the filter start every day to start the cycling.

Crappy Paint of the setup.
iRLifw8.jpg


The filters (green) outlet is directed over towards the heater (red) and the thermometer is the orange blob.

What temperature should I be aiming for at the thermometer? I'm guessing that if I go for 25C there, then the area round the heater will be a lot more.

When should I start testing the water for the ammonia, nitrates and nitrites? (I've probably those the wrong way round).

I can down this morning and the water is a bit cloudy, is this normal?

So many questions!! :D
 
nst68 said:
What temperature should I be aiming for at the thermometer? I'm guessing that if I go for 25C there, then the area round the heater will be a lot more.
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Your heater should be at a 45% angle, not horizontal. What fish are you planning to keep as that will affect the required heat setting?

nst68 said:
When should I start testing the water for the ammonia, nitrates and nitrites? (I've probably those the wrong way round).
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It's ammonia, nitrites, then nitrates. You will get an initial ammonia spike, then your nitrites will go up before everything settles. I wouldn't test the water for about four weeks. It should have cycled between four and six.

You need to get ammonia and nitrites as close to zero as possible. Nitrates are not as important as they are not particularly harmful to fish in low doses. I have nitrates in the tap water so it is never less than 40 ppm but doesn't cause any problems.

Are you planning to add live plants? These feed on nitrates so assist in the bacteria cycle.

nst68 said:
I can down this morning and the water is a bit cloudy, is this normal?
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Wouldn't worry about it.
 
gillywibble said:
Your heater should be at a 45% angle, not horizontal. What fish are you planning to keep as that will affect the required heat setting?
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Am thinking of tetras, guppys etc, nothing too big.



gillywibble said:
It's ammonia, nitrites, then nitrates. You will get an initial ammonia spike, then your nitrites will go up before everything settles. I wouldn't test the water for about four weeks. It should have cycled between four and six.

You need to get ammonia and nitrites as close to zero as possible. Nitrates are not as important as they are not particularly harmful to fish in low doses. I have nitrates in the tap water so it is never less than 40 ppm but doesn't cause any problems.

Are you planning to add live plants? These feed on nitrates so assist in the bacteria cycle.
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No live plants planned.

This is a pic of it atm.

tibtzVX.jpg
 
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