Man of Honour
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As I say, I think it's just the very latest iteration of it. Possibly 4650. Whichever version has the under-bar-tape routing.
Road Cycling
- Thread starter Zefan
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As I say, I think it's just the very latest iteration of it. Possibly 4650. Whichever version has the under-bar-tape routing.
I don't think that is a screw-on freewheel. You can see splines because I'm pretty sure that's a Shimano Uniglide hub and cassette and the bottom cog is the lock ring. You undo the bottom ring and the rest then slide off the splines as a set. You'll either need two chain whips, one to hold the cassette and the other to undo the bottom cog, or, if you put it back on the bike you can put it in 1st gear, stand on the pedal and use the chain whip to undo it.
The good news is Uniglide is awesome. Because it's a set of separate cogs and spacers you can run any combination of ratios you like. The bad news is it's rare and getting expensive. You can run up to 8 gears on that hub, the 6, 7 and 8 simply had different thickness spacers.
New 4700 Tiagra is 10 speed, same as old 4600 Tiagra, but they're not compatible. That'll cause problems.
I didn't know 11 speed stuff wasn't compatible with the rest... I knew all the rest worked the same, but not that.
I didn't know 11 speed stuff wasn't compatible with the rest... I knew all the rest worked the same, but not that.
Soldato
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What jonny said sounds like the most likely option. Had forgotten about UG. Never actually had to remove one to be fair! Have seen a few hg bodies with the UG threaded part though.
Re the 4700 tiagra. Ordered a mech for a 10spd bike and my boss worked out it wasn't compatible. Madison site says compatible with 10 speed systems....
Should have known as the cable mounts are completely different
Re the 4700 tiagra. Ordered a mech for a 10spd bike and my boss worked out it wasn't compatible. Madison site says compatible with 10 speed systems....
Should have known as the cable mounts are completely different
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Soldato
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Anyone struggling with the Garmin Connect app again? The latest update has borked everything. Can't sync, can't even view my past activities. Lots of people moaning about it.
Man of Honour
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Yup, my ride to work won't upload. Presumably it'll be back up later.
Soldato
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Same old issues with their app update! Every single time.
Man of Honour
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I don't know what you mean
It's pretty shoddy QC when it comes to their software releases - much like it is with their hardware
I think we have a winner and as luck has it I have two chain whips, it does however appear to be tighter than (insert rude simile of choice)
Might take it to LBS to see if they can get it off for me
Thanks.
Yep the crank set is a pill of wee currently.
Noob-mode\ Is it not possible to change my BB to suit whichever P2M I might happen to pick up used? if this is necessary.
A quick self education would point towards a 110BCD as you *can* get up to 52T rings on them, apparently. 50/36 has suited me fine so far, if it makes more sense to get a 130BCD and have two extra teeth on the inner ring I'm indifferent, as long as it doesn't make climbing noticeably harder
I guess the change to the ratio will be minimal...The website is down this morning which will probably have something to do with it. I think there was some scheduled maintenance this week but I'm not sure.
Ive got a Stages power meter,<snip>It was faultless for a year tho. Then the warranty ran out
See I find that pretty poor too... Something that expensive and so finely calibrated that only comes with a years warranty. I know some can be serviced so I think going that route I'd pick (and pay) for the device with the best value/turnaround/support on servicing as to me it's not something I could afford to totally replace every couple of years. If that means paying £1000 and then £100 every 2 years it's a damn sight less expensive than £600 every 2 years in the medium to long term.
I remembered I bought a Speed/Cadence sensor kit for my other bike for some reason. I've rescued the magnet off that.
Now what do I need to do with it?
Attach to a spoke so it moves within 5mm of the 'arm' or sensor for each revolution of the wheel. Depending on your S&C will depend on this position as it'll also have a magnet for the pedal it needs to pickup for your cadence. Usually the position of the pedal as it passes the chainstay will determine the location of the S&C sensor, this in turn will determine the location of the magnet on the spoke. But without knowing which sensor it is I can't give better instructions... (I also only have experience with 4 different types).
Thanksas I already have a 105 RD I just need some Brifters, FD, Calipers etc. I won't need a cassette, crank etc. So that might open up some more options too meaning I won't need to stick to strictly a 105 bundle
I guess the range of movement in the RD would determine, along with the amount of extra give in the limit screws. I mean if it's a short arm 5700 then it may struggle with a wide range 5800 cassette!
Pretty sure I read on Sheldon Brown's about 10 and 11 speed being compatible, just with 10 speed shifters you miss the top or bottom gear on the 11 speed cassette. Unsure how accurate that is now with 5700 and 5800 as it might have been talking about different combinations.
Man of Honour
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Thanks.
Yep the crank set is a pill of wee currently.
Noob-mode\ Is it not possible to change my BB to suit whichever P2M I might happen to pick up used? if this is necessary.
A quick self education would point towards a 110BCD as you *can* get up to 52T rings on them, apparently. 50/36 has suited me fine so far, if it makes more sense to get a 130BCD and have two extra teeth on the inner ring I'm indifferent, as long as it doesn't make climbing noticeably harder
The BB standard will depend on the frame. You can get converters for some of them but they tend to be more expensive and weigh more. If you want to switch over to a different BB standard then a new frame is probably a better choice in this case (if you already had a pro frame I'd not suggest that of course
). With regards to BCD, you can indeed get 52T and 36T chainrings on them... The way to differentiate is usually that you can't get <38T chainrings on 130BCD - so if there's a 34T on there it's definitely not going to be 130BCD. This is why I assumed 130 was more likely for your crankset but it's definitely possible that it's 110. The most common setups you'll get on a modern bike are:
53/39 - Double - 130BCD
52/36 - Double - 110BCD (See OM's post on the next page)
50/34 - Compact - 110BCD
46/36 - Compact (CX) - 110BCD
It's possible to get larger chainrings on 110BCD but I'm really just talking about the most common setups you'll get preconfigured on bikes.
Based on your love of pain and your continuing improvements I'd go 50/34 or 52/36. I ride a 50/34 at the moment and find the 34 great for the hilly rides I do but the 50 means I spin out a bit too easily on mild descents. My next crankset, assuming I'm back down to my target weight and my fitness has improved a little, will be 52/36. I ride with an 11-28 cassette btw.
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Totally possible and probably recommended. Not much point spending %large amount% on P2M and cranks when the BB is made of cheap cheese and flexing all over the place.
A quick self education would point towards a 110BCD as you *can* get up to 52T rings on them, apparently. 50/36 has suited me fine so far, if it makes more sense to get a 130BCD and have two extra teeth on the inner ring I'm indifferent, as long as it doesn't make climbing noticeably harder
You're probably better going towards 52/36 as it's a more common combo and would give you more future options. Keeping the 36 = no change to your climbing & larger 52 = faster flat/turbo top speeds!
My Defy 1 came with 50/34 and a 11-28 Cassette, I've since fitted an 11-32 cassette and I can't imagine losing my low climbing gears. I could probably happily go up to a 52 but I wouldn't want to lose my 34 as I'd then have to avoid some of the 25% or higher climbs. I can't see my power/fitness increasing enough to suddenly not need 2-3 of my lowest gears, although I would like to get to the stage of not having to use my 32 so much. Maybe if there were more alpine climbs around. They're easy in comparison! (says he who hasn't ridden one yet!)
My autosync has been rubbish since last Connect update, 50% of the time I have to go into Connect and manually sync/upload from my 810.
Anyone played much with Clusterer on Strava? Finding a few local-ish loops/routes I wasn't that aware of! I'm sure I saw a heatmap sometime before, the two combined would be awesome!
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Man of Honour
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52/36 is probably the way to go given that he's used to 36 on the back already yeah.
However, for turbo work it's often better to have something smaller on the front. I'm not suggesting Benny does this but for my dedicated turbo I kind of wish I had a 46T on the front as it would help me keep to target powers at comfortable cadences. I switched to a 12-25 cassette on it for a similar reason.
However, for turbo work it's often better to have something smaller on the front. I'm not suggesting Benny does this but for my dedicated turbo I kind of wish I had a 46T on the front as it would help me keep to target powers at comfortable cadences. I switched to a 12-25 cassette on it for a similar reason.
Soldato
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Thanks.
Yep the crank set is a pill of wee currently.
Noob-mode\ Is it not possible to change my BB to suit whichever P2M I might happen to pick up used? if this is necessary.
A quick self education would point towards a 110BCD as you *can* get up to 52T rings on them, apparently. 50/36 has suited me fine so far, if it makes more sense to get a 130BCD and have two extra teeth on the inner ring I'm indifferent, as long as it doesn't make climbing noticeably harder
Yep, you should be able to change your BB for whatever P2M you end up with. The FSA and Rotor ones are definitely compatible across all frames, you'll just need the right BB.
You can get up to 56t chainrings for 110 BCD from what I've found.
As a correction, the smallest chainring you can get on 130 BCD is 38t so a 52/36 setup will be using 110 BCD (compact). I currently use this combination as I swap my powermeter between my road and TT bike and this covers me well for both ends (use a 12-23 cassette on the TT bike and 12-27 on the road bike).
Man of Honour
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Oops. You're right. I wonder where I got my numbers from?
Don
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My first ever winter cycling get up. Full power ranger!
Gone green to match my bikes
The Mrs said she would only take the photo if I covered my gentleman's area!
Gone green to match my bikes
The Mrs said she would only take the photo if I covered my gentleman's area!
Don
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Breathing seems OK. I can drop the face cover down below the nose and/mouth if required anyway
It's a multipurpose balaclava type thingy.
I'm new to this, so trying out a lot of stuff to see what works for me.
It's a multipurpose balaclava type thingy.
I'm new to this, so trying out a lot of stuff to see what works for me.
Man of Honour
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You know you've chosen an odd outfit when janp the Christmas elf is irked
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