**Unofficial Tyre Thread**

Ended up buying some Dunlop Sport BluResponse as they didn't have the Goodyear Efficient Performance tyres.

I asked about rotating the rears (with 5mm tread) and they said it's better to have the new tyres on the front (as it's a FWD car) also they ended up fitting V rated tyres, this won't matter with the rears being H rated will it?

All the tyre manufacturers seem to advise fitting the new tyres to the rear.
 
VaderDSL said:
I asked about rotating the rears (with 5mm tread) and they said it's better to have the new tyres on the front (as it's a FWD car) also they ended up fitting V rated tyres, this won't matter with the rears being H rated will it?

All the tyre manufacturers seem to advise fitting the new tyres to the rear.
Click to expand...

The reason for the difference in view is because tyre manufacturers are experts in tyre performance and handing characteristics wheras tyre shops are not.
 
Some reports on the M3 forums of the PS4S having softer sidewalls affecting stability on the F80. I don't think I noticed that on my E92 but that was a different car and I didn't have them on long before I sold it.

Anyone experienced similar on the PS4S?
 
VaderDSL said:
I asked about rotating the rears (with 5mm tread) and they said it's better to have the new tyres on the front (as it's a FWD car)
Click to expand...

Never shop there again, this is terrible advice. New tyres should always be on the back. Numerous studies have shown, despite the logic being understandable on a fwd car, rear tyres are the ones that let go. 5th Gear did a video of Vicky driving in a donut and showing how blatant the differences were.
 
A good friend who worked in the tyre trade explained it like the back end being like a trailer - you've a lot less control over where it wants to go hence it's better to have more grip available back there.
 
hurfdurf said:
Never shop there again, this is terrible advice. New tyres should always be on the back. Numerous studies have shown, despite the logic being understandable on a fwd car, rear tyres are the ones that let go. 5th Gear did a video of Vicky driving in a donut and showing how blatant the differences were.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the confirmation. Rang two tyre places and dealers in my local area. My rears have about 5mm currently.

  • Place I had them fitted advised "FWD the fronts do the braking/traction, new tyres should go on the front.
  • Ford dealer advised "We would only put them on the back if the customer requests it, we normally put new ones on front"
  • Next tyre dealer "We always just swap put the fronts, no need to put them on the rear, assuming the rears don't need replacing in short order"
I imagine they don't advise swapping tyres because it takes them longer to do and they can't be bothered to spend the man hours (it'll all add up).
 
Is it normal for tyres (Conti SportContact 5) to get noisier as they wear out? My rears are going to be due for replacement in the not-too-distant future, and there seems to be quite a bit more road noise than there used to be.
 
Howard said:
Is it normal for tyres (Conti SportContact 5) to get noisier as they wear out? My rears are going to be due for replacement in the not-too-distant future, and there seems to be quite a bit more road noise than there used to be.
Click to expand...

Different tyre I know, but my Premium Contact 2s got noisier.
 
VaderDSL said:
Appreciate the confirmation. Rang two tyre places and dealers in my local area. My rears have about 5mm currently.

  • Place I had them fitted advised "FWD the fronts do the braking/traction, new tyres should go on the front.
  • Ford dealer advised "We would only put them on the back if the customer requests it, we normally put new ones on front"
  • Next tyre dealer "We always just swap put the fronts, no need to put them on the rear, assuming the rears don't need replacing in short order"
I imagine they don't advise swapping tyres because it takes them longer to do and they can't be bothered to spend the man hours (it'll all add up).
Click to expand...

If you speak to any reputable tyre place they will not stick brand new tyres on the front unless the rear are being replaced as well.

It makes absolutely no sense to put new tyres on the front and have less grip on the back.

Previously 4WD owners used to rotate their tyres and even that is no longer recommended.

If you speak to a tyre company or just check:

http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/learn-share/care-guide/ten-tyre-care-tips (See number 6)

Hope that helps!
 
Howard said:
Is it normal for tyres (Conti SportContact 5) to get noisier as they wear out? My rears are going to be due for replacement in the not-too-distant future, and there seems to be quite a bit more road noise than there used to be.
Click to expand...

Yes, without a doubt. I must have just got used to the road noise as once I had changed the tyres again on the Superb I was amazed at how quiet it was again!
 
Help me out please.

Aside from my desire to stick with OEM parts and for a premium brand why would I choose the Bridgestone W rated over the two cheaper options. (given the better ratings of the cheaper options.)

*FYI I've seen the tread pattern of the black circle option and it's actually pretty much like the Bridgestone rather than the one shown in the image. In case the V pattern is a problem for anyone (probably would be for me)

**fitted price

Untitled.png
 
( |-| |2 ][ $ said:
Help me out please.

Aside from my desire to stick with OEM parts and for a premium brand why would I choose the Bridgestone W rated over the two cheaper options. (given the better ratings of the cheaper options.)

*FYI I've seen the tread pattern of the black circle option and it's actually pretty much like the Bridgestone rather than the one shown in the image. In case the V pattern is a problem for anyone (probably would be for me)

**fitted price

Untitled.png
Click to expand...

Just because the tread pattern "looks the same" doesn't mean it is the same, the compound will also be completely different (and the two are designed to work together".

The tyre "ratings" are fairly meaningless - yes a tyre may be better on fuel economy, but that is an easy compromise that can be made, by making it "roll easier" and therefore provide less grip. Similarly it is easy to improve wet performance with a certain tread pattern, but this may compromise dry performance.
 
aSo I only raise these questions so I don't question if I should have ever bought the cheaper option..... not as an argument.

But you suggest it might "roll easier" and provide less grip, I get that.... But yet using the similar tread pattern (my words) which helps wet performance, yet the cheap option still gives better wet performance (which is very important for a road car right?)
I summarise that as, it'll give better dry performance, but worse in the wet... But it's actually the wet you need the grip?

FYI car = Z4 coupe for the road, all year use.
 
Last edited:
( |-| |2 ][ $ said:
But you suggest it might "roll easier" and provide less grip, I get that.... But yet using the similar tread pattern (my words) which helps wet performance, yet the cheap option still gives better wet performance (which is very important for a road car right?)
Click to expand...

Better performance in a specific "wet" test, that's not necessarily representative of real world driving.


( |-| |2 ][ $ said:
I summarise that as, it'll give better dry performance, but worse in the wet... But it's actually the wet you need the grip?

FYI car = Z4 coupe for the road, all year use.
Click to expand...

You need decent grip all of the time - while you do need it in the wet you generally drive more carefully anyway, whereas in the dry you may be more likely to push (especially in something like a Z4), and want as much grip as you can get.
 
For a car like the Z4, quite honestly my advice is to ditch the run flats and get something like Pilot Sport 4s. This is my plan in the future, although my current tyres are also non-runflat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom