Road Cycling

What's a good budget set of wheels for £150?

I've had my third spoke snapped this year on yesterday's ride and I just can't rely on the wheels the bike came with.

What set of wheels have you got just now, just so they're not recommended if you've had problems with them before?
 
Didnt @Roady also have loads of problems with OE giant wheels?


A mate has just bought set of prime peloton from Wiggle and he rates them. He's a good wheelbuilder too when he has time...
 
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Giant OE wheels, non carbon at least, are ******* gash. Up there with Boardman ones with their **** freehub bodies.

I've had Vision wheels come on my Orbea, they were ok but the freehub would make some weird noises even after I got a replacement wheel which then didn't last long on my winter bike.

Prime wheels seem to have pants bearings and a funny size one on the drive side at that(26x15x7 I think?). Still half the price of anything from bigger brands and better bearings aren't too expensive.

For absolute robustness the Fulcrum racing quattro seems to stay true and I've never saw a snapped spoke on loads of sets. As with other wheels bearings don't last long in the freehub bodies but they can be changed.
 
Same thing happened to my DT Swiss wheels, if I remember correctly cost about £20 per wheel to have the bearing swapped. They have been great ever since through 2 winters.

Thanks mate, I seem to remember we possibly had the same bike too? The Canyon Endurace?

I've got a local chap that is a member of my cycling club to sort them out for me. Also asked him if he could replace all my brake and gear cabling (internally routed!) as its a right pain of a job! :)
 
One of my friends is attempting to break the round-the-world record, starting this weekend in Berlin.
More info here http://road.cc/content/news/243274-scottish-cyclist-jenny-graham-aiming-set-new-round-world-record

Live tracking here: http://trackleaders.com/jennyrtw18

I'm certain that she's physically fit enough and mentally tough enough for it so as long as everything goes to plan logistically and mechanically I think we'll see a new record time.

Best of luck to her, that would be a phenomenal experience. One day.
 
Had a great ride on saturday with the usual group. Was low on mileage for the last couple of weeks so took a while and some efforts to open my legs up. When they did I felt damn good & strong! Did quite a bit of chasing to close gaps keeping our small 7 rider group together and always efforts on the climbs. Pleased with the legs, now if I can just keep them (somehow) through my week off next week so they're around for my first 100 of 2018 on the 1st July... :o

Even a spare bottle? Not very aero! Might loop round home or buy a coke somewhere.
Hydration pack? I grabbed one for MTB'ing and really found it great. Considering using it for my couple of 100 milers coming up next month so I'm not reliant on feed stations. If it's scorching hot weather I probably will, just to carry more fluids.

A couple of hours on one bottle and stuff in your pockets should be more than doable unless you take your workshop on the road like Roady. ;) :D
Pffft!

I'll just leave this here...
I think I'm carrying more spares than @Roady currently :o

First ride on the Quarq cranks, very interesting data from it for sure.
L/R balance. How close to 50/50 is acceptable? Strava showing 48/52, Garmin connect showing 45/55. The Garmin result sounds concerning.
What do I want to display on the Wahoo? Currently got current W and NP... Feel like the current W fluctuates too much, maybe that should be a 5 second average? Do I need to know NP during a ride?
Double check how the L/R is 'calculated' before you stress too much. My Powertap C1 does L/R but it's 'estimated' via an algorithm that uses power & cadence to determine the amount of power each pedal stroke, rather than directly measuring 'left' and 'right'. The cadence also from my C1 is 'estimated' (even though it's broadcast!) so I see stupid cadence spikes in my data from it. Basically I know I'm slightly stronger right legged and have a sloppy pedalling technique, so I see quite variation sometimes as low as 42/58, but I don't worry about it. The time I rode a wattbike to check it, it came out at 48/52.

For power data fields I've generally got 3s & 20s power on for pacing purposes. Will occasionally put current on for the luls.

Joy, tyre sidewall rubbing frame on the P3 today when out the saddle or doing more than 275w. Obviously not enough clearance for the massive watts I put out :o
Measured the rims with calipers too?

GP4000sii are quite 'fat'. I had more clearance issues with them in 25mm than Mitchelin Pro4E's on my Defy on the same wheelset.
 
Double check how the L/R is 'calculated' before you stress too much. My Powertap C1 does L/R but it's 'estimated' via an algorithm that uses power & cadence to determine the amount of power each pedal stroke, rather than directly measuring 'left' and 'right'. The cadence also from my C1 is 'estimated' (even though it's broadcast!) so I see stupid cadence spikes in my data from it. Basically I know I'm slightly stronger right legged and have a sloppy pedalling technique, so I see quite variation sometimes as low as 42/58, but I don't worry about it. The time I rode a wattbike to check it, it came out at 48/52.

For power data fields I've generally got 3s & 20s power on for pacing purposes. Will occasionally put current on for the luls.

You're right, it is indeed just an estimation which could be fooled by a number of factors... Interestingly the Wahoo showed a different L/R balance to what Connect did with the same data... I'll not worry too much, as like you, on the Watt Bike i've been consistently pretty darn close.

Do some more reading :cool: TrainerRoad or TrainingPeaks have plenty of resources. If you haven't tested your zones yet you should really do so shortly.

During the ride or interval your average power is what matters, presuming this is your target, but NP is ultimately what impacts your recovery and determines the IF score for the ride.

Two rides averaging 200w can have very different power profiles. Riding a flat 200w for 90 minutes is far less physiologically taxing than spending 90 minutes of a 1:1 ratio sprinting at 300w/100w recovery.

I have my zones from a blood lactate threshold test in April.
234w/168bpm
F0ZsxCv.jpg
 
Double check how the L/R is 'calculated' before you stress too much. My Powertap C1 does L/R but it's 'estimated' via an algorithm that uses power & cadence to determine the amount of power each pedal stroke, rather than directly measuring 'left' and 'right'. The cadence also from my C1 is 'estimated' (even though it's broadcast!) so I see stupid cadence spikes in my data from it. Basically I know I'm slightly stronger right legged and have a sloppy pedalling technique, so I see quite variation sometimes as low as 42/58, but I don't worry about it. The time I rode a wattbike to check it, it came out at 48/52.

Yeah have the same issue, the p2m crank pm uses an algorithm to work out L/R balance so I just ignore it. Currently use 5s avg power on the screen and do the rest by feel. Most of my rides I'll just had the Bolt on map view with 5s avg power at the top. Don't like seeing the speeds and distance on the screen all the time as it's a bit depressing on a longer ride.

Did the dragon ride yesterday and pretty pleased with the result, was a bit of a smashfest with some fun groups to work with although spent about half of it solo. Had to take a long stop at the last feed station as legs starting to cramp up, inner thigh adductors again, think I need to start doing Sagan's core strength routine. Still currently 70/1300 on the strava route segment. Checking out the faster guys, their stop times are down under 10 minutes, I was up at 55 minutes :(

https://www.strava.com/activities/1629960596
 
Any recommendations for tyres, it's for the Mason so used for training/winter/multi day stuff. Currently it's running gp4000s2 but their side walls are so weak I'm not keen on using them for multi-day touring stuff. Was thinking of 28mm pro4 endurance v2 but there's some comments that they are really hard to fit on some wheels, tight beads.
 
Yeah have the same issue, the p2m crank pm uses an algorithm to work out L/R balance so I just ignore it. Currently use 5s avg power on the screen and do the rest by feel. Most of my rides I'll just had the Bolt on map view with 5s avg power at the top. Don't like seeing the speeds and distance on the screen all the time as it's a bit depressing on a longer ride.

Did the dragon ride yesterday and pretty pleased with the result, was a bit of a smashfest with some fun groups to work with although spent about half of it solo. Had to take a long stop at the last feed station as legs starting to cramp up, inner thigh adductors again, think I need to start doing Sagan's core strength routine. Still currently 70/1300 on the strava route segment. Checking out the faster guys, their stop times are down under 10 minutes, I was up at 55 minutes :(

https://www.strava.com/activities/1629960596

Do you think working on the splits is the answer to that cramp?
When it hits me I'm invariably in a panic stricken heap with no idea which way to go to stretch it out :(
 
Any recommendations for tyres, it's for the Mason so used for training/winter/multi day stuff. Currently it's running gp4000s2 but their side walls are so weak I'm not keen on using them for multi-day touring stuff. Was thinking of 28mm pro4 endurance v2 but there's some comments that they are really hard to fit on some wheels, tight beads.


it's a bit leftfield but I have huge love for the lifeline prime armour from wiggle. my rear did over 3k miles most of which I spent a) being fat and b) with a pannier with no punctures. it feels a bit cheap to hold in hand, but it's all forgotten when you ride it - it's far better than any £16.49 tyre has any right to be
 
Admit it, you went out and targeted hills so I wouldn't overtake didn't you?! ;)

Off topic, think I'll have to pop some cable outer to stop my FD cable eating in to my BB shell. The guide is on correctly, mech is braze (not band) on so in the intended position. Shifting is fine, just a bit bizarre.
erjd45Ul.jpg
Incorrect guide supplied since new? Find it really strange that Trek would get something as basic as that wrong with design/fitment.

You could use one of the RD cable noodle things ('tongue shields'?!) I've seen on some older city/hybrids. Although they seem expensive, try scrounging for one from the LBS.

He was meant to leave Loch Lomond at 6ish to be home before dark but a storm meant he was leaving at 9pm+ and had no lights, found in him the middle of a really foggy section of NSL road. Lucky to not be dead I'd say. He'd also lost his phone so couldn't check where he was, what a night.
That's some pretty dire planning/forethought/luck! Although he's lucky to have a friend like you! :cool:

I've got a problem with my DT Swiss rear wheel. For a while now its been feeling a bit "wobbly" when going downhill fast or when pushing out of the saddle (to the point where its pretty damned scary when cornering fast! <snip>

Bearings or loose spokes. Probably the former. Easy fix although depending on bearings/wheels/type will depend how 'easy', which tools are required and the cost of replacements.

For training with a power meter, do I want to be using normalised power during the ride or average? And if average, over what period?
I've read about the benefits to using NP, but is that only of use in terms of recovery time? or is it NP that is used to keep me in the correct zone...
Average, NP is more useful for looking afterwards at 'actual' work done (as Benny says) yet when out on the road working with averages is more than enough. NP will generally be higher, even in more controlled environments like the turbo.

What's a good budget set of wheels for £150?

I've had my third spoke snapped this year on yesterday's ride and I just can't rely on the wheels the bike came with.

Set of the cheap giant wheels that came with the bike.
The P-R2's which came with my Giant Defy 1 2015 where gash. Within 2-2500 miles I had spokes losing tension and buckled wheels. In around 4000 miles (18 months?) they'd had new bearings and been back to the shop 5-6 times to have buckles removed. I replaced them at the time with one of the go-to budget wheelsets, Campagnolo Khamsin for a little over £100. They are bombproof and probably done close to 4000 miles with no issues. I just replaced the bearings on them ready for use by the other half to replace some cheaper Giant wheels on her commuter. For a ~£100 wheelset they are head and shoulders above the factory Giant wheels which came on what was a £900 endurance orientated bike. I've never had to have them balanced, ridden all weathers and taken some serious abuse commuting. Stickers are looking pretty tatty but that's all.

Any recommendations for tyres, it's for the Mason so used for training/winter/multi day stuff. Currently it's running gp4000s2 but their side walls are so weak I'm not keen on using them for multi-day touring stuff. Was thinking of 28mm pro4 endurance v2 but there's some comments that they are really hard to fit on some wheels, tight beads.
Saytan and SoliD both swear by the Lifelines. Think even FT rated them so I'd certainly try them if I was looking for something. I personally rate the Specialized Roubaix Pro my Diverge came with. Bombproof, hard wearing, grippy, hardly any punctures, although heavy. Note: they do size up quite large, so 25/28 and 28/30 sizing (tread of 25 or 28 with air volumes of 28 or 30). Mine have done 2 winters and still got plenty of wear left, only consideration I have is the smooth surface showing cracks in the rubber, but can't see any casing and wear indicators are showing fine, maybe 30-50% worn.
 
Normally, I think the modern age of internet shopping and prompt delivery is great, but the last few days have been a series of minor disappointments and other minor setbacks...

Had my earliest Saturday work shift finish for many a year, back home well before 1300, e-mail from Hunt tells me the new wheels will delivered before 1700 but driver has been delayed. Only at ~1700 I can no longer follow the progress of the DPD driver, he's only reached drop ~45 when I'm ~65 and at ~1900, I get an update saying wheel delivery will be attempted Sunday. By that time, the early work start has caught up with me horribly and a full stomach from dinner kills me off, so massive wasted opportunity for a ride in lovely weather on Saturday.

Wheels arrive Sunday near midday, but I get side-tracked with chores and a brief outing on fatbike to Sainsburys just before they shut at 1600 suggests it's rather hot and humid, albeit this could be from the non-recorded rushed ride there and then carrying a heavy rucksack back plus 8l of diet cola cradled by my left arm! ;)
I guzzle one of the 2l bottles of diet cola and think about a non-training ride after dinner, only I experience a massive "downer" just before dinner, presumably from all the caffeine. Then after dinner, a catch up phonecall with family... So no ride Sunday.

Which leads to today, a day of mixed fortunes. I really should have just gone for a "waking up" local ride while my better half was around before her work shift, giving me some outdoor time and she would be in to answer the door for deliveries. But I lose track of time and before I know it, the rotors arrive for the new wheels just before better half leaves for work, which I easily and quickly install while expecting the van driving postie to knock on the door shortly with a non-bike related delivery (which was supposed to arrive either Sat or today). But nope, no sign of weighty second parcel, it's not been sent Tracked so I cannot follow its progress so I've waited in until gone past normal postie finish time.

And so now, I've got less than 2.5 hours before better half gets home, to go for some sort of ride which will catch the tail end of rush hour traffic on the way back... Christening new wheels, tubes and tyres on such a short ride (by the time I'm ready to go) seems like such a waste, think I'm just going to go with the old setup.

The glass most definitely feels half empty rather than half full!
 
Do you think working on the splits is the answer to that cramp?
When it hits me I'm invariably in a panic stricken heap with no idea which way to go to stretch it out :(

lol, I've really no idea but think it's related to conditioning and stress. Stretching deffo helps free them back up though, will be doing a lot of stretching and rolling this week to let the legs recover
 
Did the dragon ride yesterday and pretty pleased with the result, was a bit of a smashfest with some fun groups to work with although spent about half of it solo. Had to take a long stop at the last feed station as legs starting to cramp up, inner thigh adductors again, think I need to start doing Sagan's core strength routine. Still currently 70/1300 on the strava route segment. Checking out the faster guys, their stop times are down under 10 minutes, I was up at 55 minutes :(

https://www.strava.com/activities/1629960596

Mega ride mate, kudos! Fantastic weather for it, legs a combination of climbs and heat? Would think your training has been on point recently so that shouldn't have been a problem. :)

L'etape is one of the few UK Sportives I really want to do. Velothon is only on the list so I can say 'done it' when people ask, rather than any other real reason. :rolleyes:
 
Admit it, you went out and targeted hills so I wouldn't overtake didn't you?! ;)
Any of my normal routes, around the 20 mile mark would have kept me ahead of you but if i'm honest I just pushed it and did that route earlier than anticipated just to make sure :p

EDIT

DanF, just sent a follow request! Crazy distance by the way!
 
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