Road Cycling

The modern cyclist! It's either keeping to a number or club runs that all surge up hills like it's a race but then back right off at the top as the are ******.

If you want to go that deep on the hill then be ready to be doing the speed we were doing before it over the top :D
 
And this is why the Colombians are taking over Pro cycling - https://www.strava.com/activities/2976756604

Egan Bernal. Mega elevation (21,000ft), long ride (145 miles) but stating/lowest elevation around 8400ft. Average speen over 20mph. Two of those climbs taking him pretty much to 10,000ft! :o

Some sort of 16340 700mAh. Here's the photo @Roady sent me the other day.
B5wXa1l.png
Cheers, saves me digging it out and checking if I got enough of the battery label for the rating/model! ;)
Also, what does hybrid ceramic mean? I guess it's a lot less Ceramic than CeramicSpeed's offering?
Hybrid bearings are the same as 'Ceramic' bearings in cycling circles. Technically they're all hybric ceramic - as they all (except in specific special use cases I'm not aware of) have a steel race with ceramic balls.

Good article on Hambini about it: https://www.hambini.com/ceramic-bearings-vs-steel-bearings-an-engineering-analysis/

I'm still quite unlikely to do any proper training. I just tend to enjoy the ride.
Same. Power for me on the road is for pacing on long climbs/interest more than anything. If I feel like I'm going deep it's nice to see just how (low) that is! The main thing for pacing for me is generally sitting at around a specific wattage when climbing, knowing I can sustain it/push myself to sustain it/shouldn't blow up sustaining it.

The modern cyclist! It's either keeping to a number or club runs that all surge up hills like it's a race but then back right off at the top as the are ******.

If you want to go that deep on the hill then be ready to be doing the speed we were doing before it over the top :D
Really depends on the ride/group/type of ride. Most of the clubs around here are generally social rides where some (but not all) riders will do hill efforts and then regroup at the top. Some will be semi-drop rides where you regroup at each junction/turn although there tends to be less of that now. The 'race' club runs tend to be more of a paced effort where riders/speed would be maintained over the top. But the club I'd ride them with they're also usually 'drop' rides so I don't tend to do them. They're too quick for me anyway! :o
 
Really depends on the ride/group/type of ride. Most of the clubs around here are generally social rides where some (but not all) riders will do hill efforts and then regroup at the top. Some will be semi-drop rides where you regroup at each junction/turn although there tends to be less of that now. The 'race' club runs tend to be more of a paced effort where riders/speed would be maintained over the top. But the club I'd ride them with they're also usually 'drop' rides so I don't tend to do them. They're too quick for me anyway! :o


We all look for different things out of cycling so it is best to find a group that best match your abilities.

It's part of the reason I don't go meet the fit boys through winter as it just becomes too relentless and I'm not in the mood for it. There's nothing enjoyable about being on the drops at 30mph looking at a guys hub go round and round whilst the road is passing by at what looks like Mach 2 or playing Ridge Racer on acid.

One of the best days recently was going over to Arran with a rucksack on with 4 seasons in a day. Just totally chilled out.

I don't use power to pace climbs, I tend to go as hard as possible(usually too hard) recover and then hold on for as long as possible. Lasting longer when someone is on my wheel until they aren't. If they pass me then I'll crumble :D
 
Replaced my front hub bearings today, one had gone a little gritty though suspect all the lube had just washed out of it. Lasted at least a year if not two, can’t remember if I refreshed them last year.

£20 and 30 mins of a job, nice when things are simple!

Cleaned and lubed the chain, all ready for Sunday club ride now.
 
Replaced my front hub bearings today, one had gone a little gritty though suspect all the lube had just washed out of it. Lasted at least a year if not two, can’t remember if I refreshed them last year.

£20 and 30 mins of a job, nice when things are simple!

Cleaned and lubed the chain, all ready for Sunday club ride now.

Very satisfying job to do now I know how to do it and have the tools.

That chain will be destroyed come Sunday afternoon :-D
 
Managed to get out today despite missing my alarm and waking up only 30 mins before the group ride was supposed to leave. Ended up going solo but cut it short due to a horrid wind that I didn’t fancy tackling on the top of the peaks.

still having continued problems with my vector 3 pm pedals. One of the most expensive yet unreliable pieces of kit I’ve ever bought. So frustrating!
 
We had a good bunch today. Flat but windy with a couple of climbs at the end.

I was pretty cooked by then but held on. Felt harder than last week despite less climbing, few race blokes driving the pace on the front.

Raceblade Pros need to GITS, spray comes around them and off the flap. Ended up totally splattered after riding behind people using them.
 
First day in ages down here that I've seen very dry roads. Cars outside didn't even have a layer of moisture on the windscreens. Until... I hopped on my bike, rode 6 miles and the clouds turned grey and it started raining... :D
 
Thanks @Berger & @Jonny ///M - been away so not had chance to sort properly but yes, the top cap was bottomed out on the expander. Will have time to re-assemble it all at the weekend.

I had time to look properly on Saturday and think I've got it sorted. I don't remember expanding the, erm, expander, before putting the head cap on previously. Even having done that I still couldn't get rid of the play though, so I tried swapping the 10mm spacer above the stem for a 15mm. That made a big difference - whilst it still seemed to need a fair bit of torque, I'm happy I could remove the play. Will see how it goes but might move the spacer to below the stem to tidy things up.
 
We all look for different things out of cycling so it is best to find a group that best match your abilities.
Oh I totally agree, but if you're regularly riding it can be easy to 'plateau' and not progress - you've basically worked and gained the fitness to ride with a group, but if the group rides no harder/faster you won't progress.

For me, riding with a group is a social thing as well as a bit of a challenge. It's not really 'training'. So I'll go with friends and attack them on the hills! :D

Thanks @Lethal`

I've taken one of mine apart and it was the 16340 like you said. I've ordered a replacement battery so will be a bit of a project to see if I can fix it up.
Let us know how you get on with it! :cool:

That chain will be destroyed come Sunday afternoon :-D
Mine was woeful, my last few days of commutes before Xmas where in the wet and they'd salted the roads a couple of times. Drivechain put away wet... And then a few days later this is what greeted me :eek::
FDhx3Ml.jpg

MtOL5fl.jpg

Thankfully a bit of a scrub then a good clean with GT85 before lubing and it was back to pristine.

That filth was from only 3.5 days of commuting as I'd cleaned everything the weekend before. So around ~30 miles of wet roads... :(

Look at that crud on the downtube. My overshoes & shoes collected the corresponding water...! Front flap on the horizon...

Raceblade Pros need to GITS, spray comes around them and off the flap. Ended up totally splattered after riding behind people using them.
Still better than nothing, or the 'ass saver' type covers as they cover 50% ass and 0% of your companions.

Related note, my Spatz arrived today. Went with the Roadman V2. No expense spared (just don't tell my other half!) :cool:

First day in ages down here that I've seen very dry roads. Cars outside didn't even have a layer of moisture on the windscreens. Until... I hopped on my bike, rode 6 miles and the clouds turned grey and it started raining... :D
Yeah part of me regretted not having the time to head out yesterday, althouth wind was bitter cold. Saturday was nice here too, the sun actually felt warm and many of the club rides here posted pictures up and looked busy. While I was stuck at home with the little one while the other half worked. Grr! Maybe next weekend...

Roads actually 75% dry here this morning, ambient around 5-6 but windchill down to 1-2. Headwind to work. Still enjoyed dry roads. Saddle sore from Zwifting yesterday only slightly reducing it! :cool:
 
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Got my 4iiii fitted this morning. The frame clearance checker is fake news! I printed it off and gave it a check with a AAA battery before fitting and I couldn't slide it very well, definitely not along the whole area. Decided to take the crank off and have a better look at the fitting with the real thing and there's bundles of room.

Frame clearance check:

Actual clearance once fitted:
O39mfTr.jpg


Perhaps the thickness of the 5800 crank is thinner than 6800 though... didn't think to check that.

Decided to change my chain and cassette at the same time and now discovering that the chain is slipping off the lower jockey wheel in the higher cogs :/ One for the weekend.
 
Got my 4iiii fitted this morning. The frame clearance checker is fake news! I printed it off and gave it a check with a AAA battery before fitting and I couldn't slide it very well, definitely not along the whole area. Decided to take the crank off and have a better look at the fitting with the real thing and there's bundles of room.

Frame clearance check:

Actual clearance once fitted:
O39mfTr.jpg


Perhaps the thickness of the 5800 crank is thinner than 6800 though... didn't think to check that.

Decided to change my chain and cassette at the same time and now discovering that the chain is slipping off the lower jockey wheel in the higher cogs :/ One for the weekend.
LOADS of room there! Talk about a lot of worry/stress over nothing! :rolleyes: :D

Bolts holding on your crankarm - non-standard Shimano? I think you need to find a bigger one... #massive ;)

You could be right about the thickness, my 6800 crankarm from memory is thicker than that... Although I don't think enough to cause any clearance issue. Interesting!

'Lower' jockey wheel - the one on the 'arm'? (The tension pulley? The upper one closest to the cassette is generally the guide pulley).

The chain coming off the tension pulley is unlikely to be caused by the cassette change - it's far enough removed from it and has the guide pulley between. First port of call would be the chain routing being incorrect over the little 'tab' on the derailleur arm. This would/could cause the chain to skip off the tension pulley...

Only other thing I can easily think of is the chain being the wrong spacing for your derailleur. Like using an 8 speed chain on an 11 speed groupset but highly doubt you've made that mistake???
 
Bolts holding on your crankarm - non-standard Shimano? I think you need to find a bigger one... #massive ;)
Just the usual bolts I think. They came with the 4iiii unit.

'Lower' jockey wheel - the one on the 'arm'? (The tension pulley? The upper one closest to the cassette is generally the guide pulley).
Yup

The chain coming off the tension pulley is unlikely to be caused by the cassette change - it's far enough removed from it and has the guide pulley between. First port of call would be the chain routing being incorrect over the little 'tab' on the derailleur arm. This would/could cause the chain to skip off the tension pulley...
Yeah, I figured this but I'm pretty sure I'd have noticed it before. Quite possible I just have the wheel in slightly off.. though that would usually result in chainstay rub as that's a tight clearance too. Checked the tabs first thing. Routed fine.

It's definitely an 11 speed chain :D

Most suggestions would point to it being a bent hanger / cage. Possible I guess.
 
Maybe, so the previous chain being worn had more lateral movement so didn't skip off the pulley. Although if you think it was that bad (to cause it to move so far over it comes off the side of the pulley) the indexing would be all to **** and you wouldn't be able to get it anywhere near right. Maybe 1 edge of the hanger is bent 'inwards' around the pulley so the chain rides up it or is pushed off the pulley? Although I'd expect that to be pretty obvious from sight.

Another thing - you've not taken your derailleur apart have you? Possible one of the cages is on the wrong way around? 5800 derailleur? I can take some pics of mine at home if you want to compare, think I even have a used/worn one on the shelf. It would a a medium/long. If I do I'd happily send you the cages from it.
 
Nah, not taken it apart. Thanks for the offer though. This is a new R7000 derailleur, installed in May. Maybe 6000 miles on it.

I always find it really hard to eyeball derailleur alignment.
 
Given my posh new Northwave winter boots have gone back to the shop (they broke before I even got on my bike), my choice is now between different overshoes...

- Spatz Pro 2
- Castelli Estremo

Anybody have any experience with the Estremos as they might be less sweaty?
 
Nah, not taken it apart. Thanks for the offer though. This is a new R7000 derailleur, installed in May. Maybe 6000 miles on it.

I always find it really hard to eyeball derailleur alignment.
Weird behaviour, it's not something silly like the chain you've bought is direction specific or something weird is it? What's the chain?

Without having the plates off then it really can't be that, so does point to towards alignment. It is really really hard to do by eye, you need to 'extend' the hangers surface to judge it (like the tools which screw in). LBS is probably your best bet, although the tools are cheap(ish) it's generally not something you need very often. I've never bothered to buy one. I've bashed RD's several times (my worst fall at speed the bike fell & slid RD side down) but never needed to realign a hanger. But hangers being so different across different brands that means very little... I've just been lucky with tough hangers! I think @SoliD breaks them for enjoyment! ;)

Given my posh new Northwave winter boots have gone back to the shop (they broke before I even got on my bike), my choice is now between different overshoes...

- Spatz Pro 2
- Castelli Estremo

Anybody have any experience with the Estremos as they might be less sweaty?
What broke on your Northwaves? Was it the boa? I'm sure someone else I was speaking to recently had a problem with a boa on a recent/new Northwave. Mine are the earlier ones without a boaz, just have the pullcord type laces. Possibly for the best!

The Estremo will be more like a traditional overshoe, although they're not Neoprene. I did look at them a month or two ago and decided to go the Spatz route. I previously had a pair of Tempesta overshoes and although they feature different fabrics, I would say they're probably similar as not neoprene. I found them quite a 'light' overshoe compared to the usual Neoprene types, the materials used are good at blocking cold winds and water, but then I found them quite 'boil in the bag' so would have the feeling of moist feet. Also being quite thin they don't insulate anywhere near as much as neoprene. On damp club rides I'd have feeling of damp socks afterwards without any real water, but also experience cold feet as although good at blocking wind, they still seemed to lose heat in any chill. I don't generally suffer with hot/cold/sweaty feet but found they gave me them in cold weather. I think I've generally concluded I prefer neoprene. Certainly for an 'everyday' overshoe - I tend to live in overshoes from October->March. Same with the Tempesta leg warmers... They're not 'warm' in the slightest, certainly not in rain, but good at blocking moisture... But that means a tight fit (as the lower fabric doesn't stretch) that my legs get 'wet' on the inside anyway. Regardless of any rain...

I've bought some Spatz Roadman 2 now, although a size 42 shoe I went the M/L size (43+) and I'm glad I did as they fit my legs/calves perfectly and are not 'baggy' in the slightest on my shoes. I think the S/M would've certainly been too tight for my legs, but also meant quite a stretch over my shoes so would've worn easier/higher risk of tearing. The neoprene used is a little thinner than usual overshoes, stretches more and feels quite a bit more rubbery, than fabric coated like other overshoe material. I've worn them 3 times, only once riding and not in any rain yet. I like them but think in efforts during milder weather my calfs will sweat quite a bit. Have yet to see how they deal with that, obviously if that's during rain then it's ok - still expect to feel moist to some extent (just not wet), but in dry/ more humid weather think they will not be very good (but that's not what they're designed for!). The Pro 2 are probably slightly thinner than the Roadman 2 so might not 'overheat' as such, but probably feel cooler. Good for training in the rain, less so for easy riding in the dry. :cool:

I'm still going to retain usual neoprene overshoes for cold weather and commuting, the Spatz will be used for wet club runs. I don't tend to do long wet autumn/spring training rides (preferring to ride on Zwift), but they would be well suited to them too.
 
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