What have you done to your car today?

Wasn't me doing anything, but approaching 2 years now, so got car detailed again. New car protection was showing it's age a bit.

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Been tweaking the boost a bit getting it stable prior to installing a few performance mods.

This is stock (or there about) levels of boost but using an profec spec 2 rather than the oem boost controller which fail miserably at the best of times.
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Taken with a pinch of salt of course!
 
In past few weeks Mini Cooper S 59 Plate 68,000 miles.

MOT, New Clutch, Front Break Pads, New Battery, New Powering Steering Motor and Tracking.

Painful. :(

Now it needs a Service! :mad:

Next change of car! haha :D
 
LizardKing said:
Been tweaking the boost a bit getting it stable prior to installing a few performance mods.

This is stock (or there about) levels of boost but using an profec spec 2 rather than the oem boost controller which fail miserably at the best of times.
Taken with a pinch of salt of course!
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With the right vehicle data and a decently flat road Virtual Dyno is surprisingly accurate, comparing real dyno pulls on the MX5 vs VirtualDyno
 
Frozennova said:
With the right vehicle data and a decently flat road Virtual Dyno is surprisingly accurate, comparing real dyno pulls on the MX5 vs VirtualDyno
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So im led to believe :) But my butt says otherwise :D the road was perfect and i did a few 3rd gear runs and they all came out similar or there abouts to this figure, the data is correct for the car as well, added a more realistic weight for my lardy ass and the whp figure went up!.... :o
I'd love a ~80bhp gain over the last dyno but i cant see the mods its had giving those gains :confused:

Edit - i suspect the final drive ratio is not correct even though its listed in the software.
 
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Booked the M3 into Redish for Con Rod bearings, inc replacing the engine mounts. Also asked them to have a look at the noise when braking from the rear. Could be a diff plate issue :(
 
Replaced the battery in the wife's Audi S4. Went reasonably well, it's a very tight fit though, and a hell of a heavy thing to insert into a very tight gap right at the back of the engine bay.

We've been struggling for a while with occasional flat batteries, and I believe the old battery was underspecified for the car. On top of that, I think that having flattened several times, it was not holding as much charge when full as previously.

All this compounded by the car doing very low mileage (1500 last year) and mostly quite short journeys.

If the problem persits with a new battery, then I think we've got a drain somewhere. (Although that has theoretically been ruled out by a garage quite some time ago when we first started having the issues.)
 
Put the track day disks and pads on for Donington on Saturday. Decided to try out DS1.11 as heard good things about them.

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Also replaced the 2 bumper to wing fixings as they were absolutely knackered, been on the car since 1999 I suspect.

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Pretty sure i broke the alternator, i was running the datalogger at the time as well.

The mrs is sure it calling out mummy in graph form before dying? :D
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LizardKing said:
Pretty sure i broke the alternator, i was running the datalogger at the time as well.

The mrs is sure it calling out mummy in graph form before dying? :D
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It didn't look happy before it flatlined.

Not sure what you are using to view logs at the moment, but this will become your new best friend if you're willing to spend the £30 or so for a license

https://www.efianalytics.com/MegaLogViewerHD/
 
MSTRBKR said:
You should probably have the battery connected to a CTEK or similar, with the car being used very little. Flattening it several times will kill it over time, but a proper battery conditioner would sort it out.
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Yeah, not a bad idea. Although there's not really anywhere convenient to connect it up. It's one to think about.
 
The difficulty is that it's on the drive outside, and running a cable to it would be difficult, plus removing and replacing apparatus would be a pain. It get's driven fairly often, just for short distances mainly.

Can a solar charger plug in to the cigarette socket? And do you think it'd achieve anything placed on the dash? That way, it wouldn't impact the ability to get in the car and drive away.
 
With the battery I've just replaced, it was losing charge in about 2 weeks. But it has to be said, the battery charger I use was then reporting it as fully charged after about 20 minutes from the point of being unable to start the car. This is the reason for my theory that the capacity of that battery had been impacted badly.
 
Frozennova said:
It didn't look happy before it flatlined.

Not sure what you are using to view logs at the moment, but this will become your new best friend if you're willing to spend the £30 or so for a license

https://www.efianalytics.com/MegaLogViewerHD/
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Agreed, its never been particularly strong! It looks newer than the engine so probably a dodgy refurb put in years ago.

Thanks i'll check that out, i currently use Evoscan which is pretty good by all accounts but getting long in the tooth!
 
bazzabear said:
The difficulty is that it's on the drive outside, and running a cable to it would be difficult, plus removing and replacing apparatus would be a pain. It get's driven fairly often, just for short distances mainly.

Can a solar charger plug in to the cigarette socket? And do you think it'd achieve anything placed on the dash? That way, it wouldn't impact the ability to get in the car and drive away.
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I have one of these. Problem is it will only work from a 12V if you have a live from the 12V. Most are switched by ignition only. If you follow Harry's Garage on YouTube he did this with his Mercedes SL600 that he left in France for months and it started up no problem.
 
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