Didn’t read the thread did you?
Branded v Supermarket fuel
- Thread starter Merlin5
- Start date
What thread?
PS heres the last thread on this 26 pages
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...-octane-petrol.18340344/page-23#post-31207148
Here is my post on it, and still people don't seem convinced. I tried to be vague but I actually work for BP at our technology centre that develops fuel and engine oils. I'm tired of trying to hide it
I was the technical expert on the Geneva stand below.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/premium-fuels-hidden-benefit.18777303/#post-30725919
I'm not sure why you felt the need to hide it. It's not like you're an international spy governed by the OSA.
Out of interest, were the inlet valves replaced on that car before the test was conducted? How did you mitigate the cylinder deactivation mode?
I think you have miss understood. I just didn’t want to come across as biased or advertising. Just wanted to share it as fact driven as possible.
No parts were replaced and the car drove normal drive cycle so anything that would have happened, did. It was a big of a project by a few of the engineers in Germany.
I’m not sure that engine has deactivation?
No parts were replaced and the car drove normal drive cycle so anything that would have happened, did. It was a big of a project by a few of the engineers in Germany.
I’m not sure that engine has deactivation?
They are alright as long as you find one which has already had the revised timing chain guides fitted, which is an engine out job costing roughly the current value of the cars.If it's the old V8 one it has entire engine deactivation
These are the sort of comments that are just guessing.
MOT is a crude test, it doesn’t measure PM count at all, and it’s these emissions that go deep into the lungs ( more of an issue on direct injection gasoline)
As mentioned no driver will notice a difference. And without cleaning up the engine with a fuel tanks of decent fuel you aren’t going to experience the clean up benefit.
- So, only covid changed since last thread
The car is being warmed up once a week, but, I'm driving few miles, let alone @NSL ....
I've not checked; If the price of Vpower has come down, to the pre-covid supermarket fuel levels, I'll be using that
... reduce residues drying in in the little used parts, preventative maintenance.
The car is being warmed up once a week, but, I'm driving few miles, let alone @NSL ....
I've not checked; If the price of Vpower has come down, to the pre-covid supermarket fuel levels, I'll be using that
... reduce residues drying in in the little used parts, preventative maintenance.
For some reason I always thought that fuel pickups in storage tanks came from a floating intake, so the fuel is actually taken from the top of the fuel in the tank rather than the bottom
Soldato
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doesnt seem to show the self adjusting fuel pump pick up height based on tank level feature...
whats that you say? The fuel pickup is always at the bottom?
Soldato
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Just which quasi-universe is it that you exist in?
That is what somebody has drained from a vehicle fuel tank, not a bulk storage tank at a fuel station. The floating pickup that I was under the impression was used is on bulk storage tanks rather than vehicle tanks.
And even vehicle tanks do not normally have the outlet right at the bottom. It is normally an inch or so above the bottom.
Much of what you see in that youtube clip is water that has accumulated at the bottom of the tank, either because the fuel has contained small amounts water (Which it does, particularly diesel which is why diesel fuel filters have water traps incorporated, but petrol with ethanol in it will also contain quite a lot of water) or through condensation in the tank over time.
In a steel tank, that water will corrode the inside of the tank generating rust particles.
In both steel and plastic tanks, you can get algae and bacteria growing in the water, particularly in diesel tanks where you can even get stuff living in the fuel!
So in all cases, even if the fuel entering the tank is clean, the tank itself can become wet and grubby over time.
Normally, as long as the tank is kept topped up this isnt too much of a problem.
The "Dead space" between the actual bottom of the tank and the pick up can contain as much as a gallon. This is suficient in most cases to avoid problems from accumulated gunk getting drawn into the fuel system over a typical vehicles lifetime. However this is not to say it never happens.
Also, if the tank is allowed to run nearly empty, you will get the fuel sloshing around a lot more so fresh fuel will mix with the grot at the bottom of the tank, which is why people can have problems if they allow the tank to run dry/nearly dry.
Incidentally, Wynns does a fuel addative that purports to allow small amounts of water to mix with the fuel so it can be drawn through the fuel system in a controlled manner keeping the tank dry. Though, like engine oil flushes. This is likley to be the sort of product that is best used as a preventative rather than to treat a known problem (Ford CVH engines and oil flush anybody??
)That S4 engine certainly is interesting to see. I tend to run our cars on branded 95 as much as I can, my company car is probably about 50/50 as if I'm out and about I won't deviate off my route to seek out fuel that isn't over average price which often means a supermarket is my best bet.
We refer to supermarket and branded but are all supermarkets (and brands for that matter) equal when it comes to their additives or lack of?
It also strikes me as a bit crazy that manufacturers have strict guidelines imposed on them for emissions yet 10k down the line the fuel that has been used could be undoing a big chunk of that work. In the case of direct injection, perhaps even more so.
We refer to supermarket and branded but are all supermarkets (and brands for that matter) equal when it comes to their additives or lack of?
It also strikes me as a bit crazy that manufacturers have strict guidelines imposed on them for emissions yet 10k down the line the fuel that has been used could be undoing a big chunk of that work. In the case of direct injection, perhaps even more so.
Caporegime
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First of all ignore anyonmes advice that doesn't know anything about your car, it's engine or set up.
The Auris uses the same drivetrain and engine as my CT200h.
The cars and the engines only weak point is the EGR. Now this will get clogged up due to carbon deposits. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. When that happens it will cause overheating and part of the engine to fail or blow.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to...0+2011+2012+2013+2014+2015+Toyota+Prius/95754
There is hundreds of videos and stories out there about this specific engine. Which is shared across the prius, auris and ct200h range.
So to prolong this from happening you want to be using a fuel with lots of good cleaning additives in it. This may mean that you only need to clean the EGR once every say 120K miles vs cleaning every 80k miles.
So you have 2 options;
Use supermarket fuel and get the EGR cleaned more regularly.
Use decent fuel with lots of cleaning additives and get it cleaned less regularly.
It is very important you get the EGR cleaned on this car at least circa 100K miles. The older the car gets the more often this should be done IMO. So once it's say circa 10 years old you may want to clean the EGR every circa 50K miles or 4 years whatever comes sooner.
The car and engine is solid. The EGR is the only weak point and needs cleaning due to carbon build up. So a decent fuel will help reduce carbon build up but it will not eliminate it fully.
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Caporegime
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wrong read my post above