Yeah of course, just keen to know if there are any good considerations at a reasonable price, this looks like it might be one of them!
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Yeah of course, just keen to know if there are any good considerations at a reasonable price, this looks like it might be one of them!
and I cannot stand them....
Nobody can rightfully suggest a saddle out of thin air for you and any decent saddle worth having will cost the pennies I am afraid.
I ride Fizik saddles. Arione R1's and Antares R1 Versus Evo. I don't particularly get on with any of them.
Have tried Fabric Scoop's and an S Works Power recently. Didn't get on with neither of them and these were both loaned from people who will never ever change away from those as they love them so much.
So that's a proper mix of different shapes, lengths and styles of saddle (all top tier full carbon expensive jobs also!) to show you that it is the most personal/differing thing between people and their bikes.
I did see an s-works power on marketplace going for a good price, and was tempted! I dont really have many local cycling friends to borrow or try bits from, so thats out of the question for me!
Oh I get that, trust me! Although think the bike it a clear deep red enough to get away with wearing orange!
Agreed! But with a red/orange bike, both red and orange are kinda odd to wear with it
Needless to say I'll never own a 'fluro yellow' bike ever again. I love it, but it's also an absolute arse as it's 'Hyper Green' and is a different colour to usual fluo yellow. I've got these shoes (had before bike) and like to wear this gilet commuting. Also liked to wear the yellow Sealskinz. None of the yellows matched each other... Or the bike! Needless to say I generally don't choose yellow overshoes, or socks, or bottles, or shades anymore...
Be careful with the Lezyne 'speed-chuck' on yours if it has a screw fitting. They're easy to undo the removable valve on some tubes (Continentals especially) and you can end up with the pump stuck on the tube... If you do - don't get frustrated and just break it off like I did... It gets utterly stuck in there and your £30 pump is then useless!
Yup, general buckles and such. Even a broken spoke (well broken nipples) or two. But it can be a very frustrating and thankless task when you first start... I'd say start on an old wheel and spend some time either removing a buckle, or even creating one (take a nipple off) and then trying to remove it. Key is to take your time, do it in really minor/tiny amounts and really really gradually when starting. It's too easy to overtighten a wheel and you'll just end up 'chasing' the buckle around the rim making things far far worse... A spoke tensionmeter is handy, but I've found it more of a 'troubleshooting' tool than any help when removing a buckle (use it to find a slacker spoke without a buckle present).
A truing stand is perfect for it and I'd say get one. Equally it's quite easy to make/fabricate one. Before now I had a frame inverted and a metal ruler taped to the chainstays, worked really well and a proper truing stand is just a bit more convenient. I bought a second hand damaged park one then bought the broken part new (and some TA adaptors). Twice I've tried to build a wheel up from 'scratch', with zero success. One of them ended up back at the LBS to finish it off, the other was never right and I've always meant to revisit it. Had far more success removing buckles (100%? ok, maybe more 90% as some I've just reduced enough to live with).
Chainring bolts are a b*ch to get, especially 'branded' ones. Ask a LBS and they'll usually give you one, or buy a set of 5, just make sure you get stainless ones and don't bother with the shimano 'peg' type ones (although don't think they're a thing anymore on the newer cranksets - they're a PITA as you need a special tool to hold them). I ended up with some 'raceface' anodised black steel ones after trying various junk lesser branded ones which just seemed to be cheap alloy and would either strip when trying to get them tight (or not go tight enough), or aluminium which would corrode and be impossible to remove. Last I looked the Specialized branded ones where stupid money, even Rotor ones are over £20. I think the Raceface ones I got are £6 on the rainforest.
I saw a set of unused R8000 rings go for £40 posted on the 'bay over the weekend. Although unsure if they came with the Shimano special bolt covers and chainring bolts... Just a FYI.
Quality advice, but if you're utterly tone deaf like me you'll have to find other ways of doing it! I could generally tell by 'feel' when some of my spokes where getting slacker than others (I went through a phase of breaking nipples on Giant rims). I've not had to do it for a while now so may not be as easy the next time...
Have to agree, kinda why the Rapha Core have become so important to me! They're only £85 too, fantastic shorts for the money. I couldn't feel enough difference to the £195 pro team, but I do like the Brevet (£180) although not for more than double the cost...
Lots of guys here seem to be enjoying Le col, but know their pricing is similar to Rapha...
That was my first thought! Also not a fan of silver. Actually quite impressed with the little cheapy Topeak Roadie DA I bought. Although it does have a really short throw as it's double action you can just go mad on it without worrying too much about bending the pump. The Dual Action is good and I was able to put probably 100PSI into a 28mm tyre in around 2-3 mins without having to really strain against the pressure (but probably 100+ pumps!). Was impressed how tight I got it the first time - actually had to release some pressure!
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Chainring bolt supply issues... Asked LBS.
I guess that UK supplier is Madison. Crazy. Is there an aftermarket option?
Edit: Missed your response, Roady.
What do you mean by Shimano special bolt covers? Not seen covers unless you're using non Shimano rings on shimano chainset.
I guess that UK supplier is Madison. Crazy. Is there an aftermarket option?
Edit: Missed your response, Roady.
What do you mean by Shimano special bolt covers? Not seen covers unless you're using non Shimano rings on shimano chainset.
these ? https://www.wiggle.co.uk/ta-ultegra...okizir80Bn1t56uSFOQybpVVvgBIrW_BoCw6IQAvD_BwE
cant find the start of this convo in the thread so this might be barking up the wrong tree.
Yup. I went through so many Fizik's too and kinda settled on the Arione (before they did the VS and Open versions), I'd never gone for wider saddles or cutouts. Then new bike came with a wider saddle with cutout and it was comparable 'comfort' without much bedding in... After getting used to it supremely more comfortable. So then trying a few more cutout saddles (when I needed one for turbo) and couldn't get used to the same saddle on the turbo. Just ruined me, yet absolutely fine when out on the road. Switched to Specialized Power and it was on par (even though quite different), then when it came for a new saddle on the outside bike also switched that to a Power. Think I've now found the perfect saddle for me, at least until the next time!
Would quite like to try an Antares Open/VS at some point though. Do like Fizik saddles and better priced that the costly Power... If I had more than 2 bikes I wouldn't have more than 2 Power saddles...
Define 'reasonable' price - remember it's the most 'personal' and important interface between you and the bike!
Many LBS who do fitting will have 'test' saddles they may let you borrow/hire (example).
See below. Although if you can get the actual bolt out, then unlikely you need the cover as don't they just pop off?
https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/shimano...c-6800fc-r9000fc-r9100-and-xtr-fc-m970-681749
Rose have them with 2 weeks leadtime, but they're just an M8x10mm so you can google that and get a ton of results if it's just the bolts you need... These look like the Raceface ones I ended up with (but that wasn't on Shimano 4-arm, so I needed both 'sides'). These 5800 should fit but you'll have to do some checking/research to confirm they didn't change pitch/bolt sizes (unlikely being Shimano).
Yeah that's what I was thinking, after putting mine together those bolt covers are quite specific/unique. Although those seem to be to use smaller chainrings on the general 4 arm cranksets due to the spacing.
Although think the bike it a clear deep red enough to get away with wearing orange!
Maybe it's the photo, but it really isn't. It's a direct cross between red and orange. I do love the colour, but rules or red and orange jerseys
(Of which I have one of each...)and I cannot stand them....
Nobody can rightfully suggest a saddle out of thin air for you and any decent saddle worth having will cost the pennies I am afraid.
I ride Fizik saddles. Arione R1's and Antares R1 Versus Evo. I don't particularly get on with any of them.
Have tried Fabric Scoop's and an S Works Power recently. Didn't get on with neither of them and these were both loaned from people who will never ever change away from those as they love them so much.
So that's a proper mix of different shapes, lengths and styles of saddle (all top tier full carbon expensive jobs also!) to show you that it is the most personal/differing thing between people and their bikes.
and I hate Fizik saddles, I do use Sella Italia SLRs for my Canyon Inflites which are quite a different size/shape/padding wise yet find them just as comfy.
There are no covers to pop off on my chainset. I think that's literally for using non standard chainrings with Shimano crank spiders. I just have bare bolts.
Is it Shimano Ultegra Double 6800 11 Spd Chainset lethal ? that's the same as mine, i thought mine did have covers, haven't got bike to hand, but just zoomed in on the picture i posted of my bike on here and it would appear they don't.
would it be these bad boys ? https://www.bike24.com/p2145931.html
You're correct, apologies I was getting muddled with the Powertap C1 I had which had similar...! Just had a look at my bare R8000 and it's just bolts into the crankset with no 'reverse'.
R8000 manual has them listed as M8x10 so the ones I linked on Rose, the ones from bike24 or anything like these would be compatible (coloured!). Providing you can get the stuck one out... Is it rounded? Mine are star nuts not hex's.
EDIT: interesting read I just found. Everesting... Everest!
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Tbf, that does sound quite personal. Mind you, I just sit on mine...
And for balance. I ride the Prologo Dimension. I have one on each bike, the winter has the NDR version which has slightly more padding. Steel rail version and they were only £30-40 ea.
I wouldn’t say it’s the Goldilocks saddle, but I don’t want to get into an endless cycle of buying and trying saddles to the extent you forget what the one you had 3 saddles back was like and if it was better than the current one!
I haven’t tried a huge number of saddles, but the Fizik Arione was horrible for me, I just couldn’t get comfortable. I changed it for a Selle San Marco Aspide, that was fine and rode it for years; I came to think it was a touch narrow and a bigger cut out would be better hence my current choice.
I wouldn’t say it’s the Goldilocks saddle, but I don’t want to get into an endless cycle of buying and trying saddles to the extent you forget what the one you had 3 saddles back was like and if it was better than the current one!
I haven’t tried a huge number of saddles, but the Fizik Arione was horrible for me, I just couldn’t get comfortable. I changed it for a Selle San Marco Aspide, that was fine and rode it for years; I came to think it was a touch narrow and a bigger cut out would be better hence my current choice.
Soldato
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I’ve tried so many saddles over the year and the one I’ve settled on is the Chinese carbon rail Specialized Power knock-off (EC90 brand). It’s actually a different shape to the Power as I tried a Power and didn’t get on with it - seems in between a Power and Power Arc.
Yep - those are the ones. I saw them available from multiple German shops like bike24 but the thing is postage and packaging adds up to £10 to the already fairly extortionate price. I might as well return the chainring I got and order a new chainset if I'm going to spend £20 on bolts.
I'll try swing by another LBS in person this week and hope they've got a spare.
You're correct, apologies I was getting muddled with the Powertap C1 I had which had similar...! Just had a look at my bare R8000 and it's just bolts into the crankset with no 'reverse'.
R8000 manual has them listed as M8x10 so the ones I linked on Rose, the ones from bike24 or anything like these would be compatible (coloured!). Providing you can get the stuck one out... Is it rounded? Mine are star nuts not hex's.
EDIT: interesting read I just found. Everesting... Everest!
No worries. I'm glad I wasn't going mad!
YesI got it out. Fortunately I managed to get it out with a hammer on the end of the torx wrench and then carefully turning it.
As for Superstar - nice. I've got a red lockring hanging around from them. Not sure in the value of coloured chainring bolts considering pretty invisible but can't hurt.
And also my Scirocco's have shed the freehub bearings again, rear rim isn't looking ideal so perhaps it's time to change them. Lasted a touch over 2 years (though the freehub bearings changed multiple times... main bearings are good). I hate bikes!