Road Cycling

[SPG]

I've fallen for that in the past. Honestly, I think if I say 'I've put new tyres on' it should just retire the old one for me (maybe with a pop up to check I have the right component).

We had a 'work ride' last night, which is normally 3 or 4 of us regular riders, baby sitting 3 or 4 slower occasional riders, with lots of chat and banter. I dreamt up something a little different for yesterday. If you imagine the route as a triangle, starting at the base, us faster riders did the full triangle, the slower guys have an adjusted route, cutting the top corners off. We would do 44 miles, they would do 36.

We first caught (stopped and had a chat/bar/gel) with 21 miles to go on our route, so technically they were ahead as we'd passed half way when we caught them. I think they didn't bring enough gels/bars to fuel properly though (one guy hadn't brought anything, despite us trying to explain how important fuelling is, every ride) and also 36 miles is still a pretty big ride for them, so actually we caught them the second time about 4 miles out and in the end we got back in about 3 hours and they got back about 5 minutes later, so pretty close really. Was good fun, quite different and will be interesting to do again at some point as these shorter route riders are still starting out, so getting quicker each month.

What a great idea, going to propose this for the triathlon club

Top stuff.

 

[One More Solo]

I joined a club run when I was in Perth (Oz, not Scotland) a few years ago and they did something similar. Slow group went straight on, fast group turned left and did a big square to rejoin the slow group at the end. Basically turned into a handicap race but great fun on the wide straight roads there.

 

[Shoeyuk]

Doing my biggest ride on Sunday of 60 miles the local shop and hospice are doing a fundraiser I’m nervous and excited at the same time. The majority of the route are on roads and villages that I am familiar with it’s just the first 15k is in a direction i haven’t been in.

 

[Roady]

Original nerd crew! Back when I joined to ask about WC loops and how to clock an Athlon...

HAha even more original crew here - although my Joined date is when they migrated the forums to a new platform, I'd have joined sometime around 98/99 as I was already here when all the 'tbred-b' madness kicked off... I cooked 2 of those before then coming here and finding quite a lot of expert help! Kinda stuck here since, all of my hobbies through those 20+ years have lead me into different sub forums, but I've posted by far the most in here lol

They were £16.72 each. I think that included some platinum discount. Cheapest I ever seen them is about £13 but that was maybe Amazon.

Good price, anything under £21-22 seems good for the usual standard chains these days...

Unless they paid for it to be scanned I can't see an insurer willing to put in writing that the frame is safe to ride after a crash bad enough to break a steerer tube.

They usually ask for a bike shop assesment and a bike shop doesn't have an ultrasound so can't guarantee the safety of the frame.

They'll always say to get it assessed and any bike shop will say a crashed carbon frame should be replaced.

It's only carbon specialists and people getting their own ultrasounds done which prove frames are otherwise safe to be ridden.

As someone who hasn't ever ridden a road bike before, would i even notice the difference between a 105 or Ultegra? I can't imagine I would so I'd have thought sticking with 105 or equivalent would be the sensible option to save a few pennies?

No difference, current 105 (and even previous version 5800) are worth riding with not a massive difference to Ultegra, it's maybe only the older 5700 where there was a bigger difference.

The delay is a bit disappointing though.

I think you've figured out already but just to clear up - now is really not the time to be buying a new bike or looking for good deals. The market is really short on supply and there's so many price hikes it's insane.

I bought my 2016 version of this for £1750 - https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/diverge-comp-carbon/p/175285?color=290924-175285

But saying that, the SH market has some amazing deals on it - people who bought good bikes first lockdown before the prices hiked so don't know what they're worth now...

Is it still true around this price range that aluminium frames are better than bottom end carbon?

Yes, some good alu even better than mid-range carbon. They're generally lighter, better made and usually better specced for less money.

Woohoo, Stages repaired and on it's way back to me.

Woohoo, result!

Anyone been following LaVita on IG and thinking of blowing £1500 on one of their gravel bikes might want to read this: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/365225/

Never heard of them but reading that then looking at what it was based off - utter clickbait and a non-starter from the outset!

Bloody chuffin great.....

Aside from a dodgy hamstring for outlaw in 4 weeks time my TT bike is now in urgent need of some TLC after a range rover decided to T bone me... Cue me writing this with a broken nose, the usual scuffs and scrapes from an off and being bored shirtless in A&E at 2am I count myself as only got here at 2130 after the police and ambulance decided to turn up and fill in the paperwork....

****** off beyond belief.

Question is do I use my BTF insurance benefits or take the guys offer of sorting it all out. Never been in this situation before on a push bike.

Gutted mate, hope the recovery is well under way now?! Many other injuries?

Go through his insurance directly if you're not after personal injury, I had great result doing that and they where falling over themselves to be helpful once their client had admitted liability and I had a Police incident number (from reporting it, they didn't attend). They basically wanted to pay me off totally for any and all equipment to stop it going any further. Receipts for everything sent over and they sent me a figure a few hundred more than what I was expecting. I was told to include everything damaged - so even scuffs on shoes where covered (and I had all intentions to wear them afterwards).

Sorry to hear, go straight to his insurance company,and get them to pay for everything. Don't use your insurance at all. Ive been hit a couple of times, luckily never as bad as you and people are always very apologetic and cooperative until they find out a pair of bib shorts costs 100 quid and new bikes cost multiple thousands of pounds.

If you have police attendance it makes things many many times easier. You'll get a payout in full for everything damaged if you haven't got any major injuries. That'll be the first thing they try to squirm out of is personal injury claim as that can cost them many many times more than a new bike.

This. Quality advice and bang on my experience.

As soon as injury is involved I'd say to get legal advice before doing anything.

What yeeeeeeeaar???

Made me lol.

Wore a thermal jersey under a rain jacket commuting this morning and wasn't hot. It's July. JULY!

Ah, thanks @resurgam - that pointed me in the right direction. You have to retire the old component first, which makes sense now I think about it

Yes, it also 'loses' old retired components so if you're using that to track anything then make a backup.

I thought it would be cool to compare all the chains I've religiously used and logged on there, sure enough only 2-3 left!

Back to my bike, how true should a carbon wheel be? I flipped the bike round and noticed that the rear brake pad rubs very slightly for part of the wheel rotation. Easily sorted by adjusting the pads, but should carbon wheels be 100% straight? Or is a slight variance normal?

Depends on your pad clearance really and how 'quick' you've got your brakes adjusted.

No wheel is 100% straight. Ask any wheelbuilder. It's all about tolerances, even those built new by machines are not perfect.

With roadbikes how much better are disc breaks? i did have hydraulic disks on my hybrid but I didn't ride it enough to really feel like they did something regular brakes can't.

Basically, one bike is £1900 and the exact same bike but with discs is £2399. Are disk breaks really £500 better? This is my first ever road bike so I wont be close to the limit of it for years and it's not like I live in the Alps where I'll be doing crazy downhills.

For you I'd say stick to your first budget, get into riding first and start low/reasonable. Then if you get hooked more you can invest more etc etc...

N+1. It's likely your first bike will become your 'everyday' or winter bike. So get something comfortable and not too 'racey'/aggressive. I'd go even as far to say get one with mudguard mounts.

Good calipers (105) are generally on par or better than low quality/cable disks in 75% of conditions you'll be riding in.

Needed to get out the house yesterday so jumped on the Scott Addict. Man I've missed riding that bike. It's such a bloody great bike. Apart from it deciding to **** a tube at 30km into the ride, with nothing on me, in the middle of a full on monsoon. Yea. Thanks. Walked 8km back home in soaking cycling shoes.

That is all.

Hahahaha, welcome back buddy! Missed you! France really has looked 'wet' the last week!

We had a 'work ride' last night, which is normally 3 or 4 of us regular riders, baby sitting 3 or 4 slower occasional riders, with lots of chat and banter. I dreamt up something a little different for yesterday. If you imagine the route as a triangle, starting at the base, us faster riders did the full triangle, the slower guys have an adjusted route, cutting the top corners off. We would do 44 miles, they would do 36.

Neat idea and kudos for helping out new riders and organising such. Well done!

Doing my biggest ride on Sunday of 60 miles the local shop and hospice are doing a fundraiser I’m nervous and excited at the same time. The majority of the route are on roads and villages that I am familiar with it’s just the first 15k is in a direction i haven’t been in.

Enjoy it and quality to get into things like these - I love doing them as meet so many people as well as usually some local cut throughs and loops I otherwise wouldn't know about or normally travel on my usual self-planned ones.

Really must hunt some down, I'm so out of touch these days I actually came across some sportive signs I'd utterly missed to see riding some roads the day before it. I kept telling myself if I bailed I'd just go home then ride that the next day. But I didn't and crossed off Gospel Pass for this year (enjoyed myself I was even quite photogenic that day!). Good time for me considering the Zwift legs and low mileage the last few months. Have some good legs at the moment which I can only put down to 'freshness' from riding less. The additional +3kg I've had to reluctantly add to my Strava/Zwift weight obviously has balanced any real power gains!

 

[resurgam]

But I didn't and crossed off Gospel Pass for this year (enjoyed myself I was even quite photogenic that day!). Good time for me considering the Zwift legs and low mileage the last few months. Have some good legs at the moment which I can only put down to 'freshness' from riding less. The additional +3kg I've had to reluctantly add to my Strava/Zwift weight obviously has balanced any real power gains!

That's good timing - I've been thinking about heading over that way in the car during next week (bit too far to ride from Birmingham) and doing a couple of rides up Gospel Pass as it's the closest long climb I can think of. Any tips for a good place to park up and start from? I don't really want to start in Hay on Wye as a) it's straight into the climb and b) likely to be busy.

 

[Trifid]

Depends on your pad clearance really and how 'quick' you've got your brakes adjusted.

No wheel is 100% straight. Ask any wheelbuilder. It's all about tolerances, even those built new by machines are not perfect.

It will be 1/10ths of a millmeter, certainly can't get my finger nail into the gap when it is at its widest, nor I can I see the variation in gap but can hear it when the pads aren't centred properly. They rub at a 12 and 6 oclock position.


Have to say the Canyon crash replacement service is looking very promising. They have started shipping my new forks to the UK. I've asked a friend to help strip the old ones off and pass a second eye over the rest of the bike. Might have a functioning bike in 3 or so weeks time... Although will probably give it a bit longer before taking it out properly as today marks 3 weeks since the accident.

 

[#Chri5#]

I know Hambini isn't everyone's essential viewing but have a look at the geometry on this frame!

It's actually a reasonable watch as it doesn't have all the usual slagging off.

 

[#Chri5#]

Yes, it also 'loses' old retired components so if you're using that to track anything then make a backup.

I thought it would be cool to compare all the chains I've religiously used and logged on there, sure enough only 2-3 left!

Impressive multi-quoting even by your standards Roady!

I was very slack on component tracking, so only started last year IIRC. I've just taken a couple of screen grabs and saved them to OneDrive for reference.

 

[AndyCr15]

So the GP5000 has always been my go to tyre, is there anything else of decent speed with decent puncture protection that I should be considering?

 

[gpuerrilla]

Made me lol.

Wore a thermal jersey under a rain jacket commuting this morning and wasn't hot. It's July. JULY!

Mate I lived in Manchester for years and now N.I - count yourself lucky if your anywhere south of Birmingham you get better climate 100%!! #tropical

 

[xdcx]

So the GP5000 has always been my go to tyre, is there anything else of decent speed with decent puncture protection that I should be considering?

Vittoria Corsa's.
Proper.

 

[blairw]

on the Vittoria's here and have been very solid!

 

[AndyCr15]

Thanks, the G2 I'm guessing? Will perhaps give them a go next for a change

 

[UTmaniac]

So the GP5000 has always been my go to tyre, is there anything else of decent speed with decent puncture protection that I should be considering?

For something more on the side of protection, Marathon Supreme. They size a little small, but I grabbed one months ago to put on my commuter from Merlin (£40 now), no puntures to date and feels quite zippy for a 37-622.

https://www.merlincycles.com/schwalbe-marathon-supreme-folding-touring-tyre-700c-163234.html

 

[SoliD]

Vittoria rubino Pro speed g+ here and theyve been solid since installing, haven't nicked like Continentals tend to, especially on the flinty/gravelly roads round here. Don't think tubeless though if this is a consideration for you.

 

[#Chri5#]

So the GP5000 has always been my go to tyre, is there anything else of decent speed with decent puncture protection that I should be considering?

Hutchinson Fusion 5 11Storm Performance would be my choice. Can't comment on punctures with tubes as I've only run them tubeless. There's the All Season version which adds some extra puncture protection.

 

[Roady]

@Jonny ///M or anyone else with experience in shimano hydraulics...

Replaced my rear pads, pushed pistons back in and was then not getting any real power from them and a ton of noise. Did a full drain and bleed last night, now the rear caliper just won't pressure much and firm up to brake. Can get noise from it but maybe only 30% braking power when fully pulled. The pistons are moving (so not stuck) but just not 'enough'. Lever full travels and pumps clear fluid out of caliper bleed port. No air bubbles. Followed my usual routine of fully inverting and rotation all directions to clear bubbles. Nothing. Went through the Park Tool instructions and still no joy.

Currently scouring the 'bay for another BR-RS785, they're starting to get in short supply new for reasonable money. Paid £45 new last time, now they're £65 and £25-50 SH. Beggars can't be choosers in the current climate I guess!

Kinda reaching the point of thinking replacing hoses could be a good learning curve as not something I've done and possibly 'needed', they're 5 years old and 15k miles now.

That's good timing - I've been thinking about heading over that way in the car during next week (bit too far to ride from Birmingham) and doing a couple of rides up Gospel Pass as it's the closest long climb I can think of. Any tips for a good place to park up and start from? I don't really want to start in Hay on Wye as a) it's straight into the climb and b) likely to be busy.

Hay is not 'busy' as you'd generally think, not compared to where you're from! It also has a massive car park although pay and display is not expensive. £1 an hour, £3 for 2-4 hours, Over 4 hours is £4. - https://en.powys.gov.uk/article/4694/Hay-on-Wye-car-parks - the Long stay one on Oxford road.

For free parking none of the villages around really have any car parks so it would all be on street. But no problems with that as generally 'permits' are only a town/city thing. You'd likely be coming along the A438, Clyro just before Hay has a street next to the church which would be easy to park and is quiet. There's very few layby's around these roads and none of them that big so wouldn't leave a couple of cars there, better to park in a village. Only public toilets I really know of would be in Hay itself. I'd say to park there and ride some of the B4348 or B4350 as a 'warm up' and get an idea of what the roads are like. Gospel is narrower and vast majority is single track but good quality surface. On sunny/clear days you get a lot of traffic up there and you'll have to stop. I had some idiot stop on one of the narrowest last ramps taking photos of horses and I had to get off and walk past them, before remounting. 5 minutes later they're tooting their horn for me to let them past on a wide enough road to overtake. Sure enough they got an elbow and arm 'wave'.

EDIT: worth noting that 'Drovers Cycles' at the 'base' of the climb in Hay is worth stopping at. Friendly bunch who do a load of hire bikes for all the campers around there, generally MTB, but have road bikes and any/all spares you may need. Have an outside seating area with a bunch of tables and a nice little coffee cart type setup. They are on a small industrial unit and it's always been quiet there the times I've been past. You could probably park there (in front of some of the other units), but I'd ask them the question first as don't know who is there or what access is required. No car park for Drovers themselves but lots of room.

It will be 1/10ths of a millmeter, certainly can't get my finger nail into the gap when it is at its widest, nor I can I see the variation in gap but can hear it when the pads aren't centred properly. They rub at a 12 and 6 oclock position.


Have to say the Canyon crash replacement service is looking very promising. They have started shipping my new forks to the UK. I've asked a friend to help strip the old ones off and pass a second eye over the rest of the bike. Might have a functioning bike in 3 or so weeks time... Although will probably give it a bit longer before taking it out properly as today marks 3 weeks since the accident.

Widen the pad clearance, that narrow on rim brake calipers sounds too little to me but I'm out of practice...

Great news on your forks! Great work Canyon.

Impressive multi-quoting even by your standards Roady!

Haha, I was due a catch-up! I'm terrible now I'm WFH - I don't check in here very much...

So the GP5000 has always been my go to tyre, is there anything else of decent speed with decent puncture protection that I should be considering?

I'm still really enjoying my 'budget' tubeless option - Specialized Roubaix Pro '2bliss' 32mm. I'll definitely check out their 'Turbo' ones in smaller sizes for a faster tyre when I go for a faster wheelset, but I know they're not cheap.

I got stung by my 'expensive' faster/narrower tubeless tyres (which are really rated), Hutchingson Fusion 5 in 28mm. They where horrible with my rims, but also when fitted they where really wooden feeling, lifeless tyres which didn't really inspire any confidence in corners. They fitted much better to some Fulcrum wheels I setup as a backup wheelset so my Zipps where no a good match with them, but I've never ridden them on the Fulcrums. Maybe I should switch them out for a month or two now (need a bearing in the rear Zipp) to decide if I keep them or not.

Anyone after some Fulcrum Racing 7's setup tubeless with them let me know (not that I've really 'sold' them above haha. But I'll do a deal to shift them and got them for a good price pre-covid)

Mate I lived in Manchester for years and now N.I - count yourself lucky if your anywhere south of Birmingham you get better climate 100%!! #tropical

I'm originally Welsh and where I am we catch much of tail end of the welsh weather (rain)!

 

[Roady]

Hutchinson Fusion 5 11Storm Performance would be my choice. Can't comment on punctures with tubes as I've only run them tubeless. There's the All Season version which adds some extra puncture protection.

Hahaha - same tyres I just trashed above, didn't see your reply before my post!

YMMV, they seem to rate and review well, but I didn't like them.

 

[gpuerrilla]

I'm originally Welsh and where I am we catch much of tail end of the welsh weather (rain)!

I see some posts about baking weather and " It's too hot " - then look outside to mist/rain/gales and think, you shouldn't complain about the hot weather its what bib shorts and jersey are all about!

 

[Lethal`]

I'm not enjoying this weather for cycling but it is nicer when you're stuck working at home and it can get to 30C+ inside without any AC