What have you done to your car today?

Malt_Vinegar said:
I have been trying to buy a spare wheel for my Mrs Corsa VXR for ages.
No one can tell me what size I need to buy to get over the brakes.
I have visited the dealer twice, both times they never came back to me, even when chased they said they would call me back asap...So, I went to twitter explained to Vaux that I was annoyed and the dealer had let me down twice.
They said, no problem, PM us and we will solve it.
24 hours later I messaged them again asking what the progress was, and they said they could not tell me and I should go to the dealer.....
Peeved...
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Get one that just covers the rear brakes? Much easier?
 
**** sakes...

Fi2Z1eX.jpg


On back order til 20th March too :o
:rolleyes:
 
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silicon mastic ?

kaiowas said:
At present the engine loom (mostly finished apart from the last few sensors which is on hold until I know what I’m doing for a cam sensor) is on a spare engine in an engine bay that I’m using for mocking things up. The loom that’s supposed to be behind the dash is on the workbench and the loom that links the two doesn’t really exist. Rear light loom is mostly done but needs cutting to length and terminating where it will link to the engine loom.
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do all the cam/hall sensors, need special low noise/balanced cable ... is it expensive, if you are buying all cable from scratch.

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3-series rattling noise off rear of car 30->55mph - did some internal dismantling to inspect shock mounts, seem OK, shock boot has a split so was going to replace that anyway,
but don't think that's the noise source,
wheel bearing seems ok - despite hand brake off and in neutral, was surprised wheel spun easily with other wheel still on ground, transmission&diff has less drag than i expected.
did find a piece of internal re-broken trim, I'd glued after replacing shock mounts a couple of years back - am hoping that's the culprit - the cold stopped play.
 
jpaul said:
do all the cam/hall sensors, need special low noise/balanced cable ... is it expensive, if you are buying all cable from scratch.
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Started with a loom that was basically just the ECU connectors, fuse box and bare wires to be routed cut and terminated. Wires for cam/crank sensors are shielded but there’s nothing else special about them
 
Now I've decided to keep my 430D for the foreseeable ive decided to do a few upgrades.
ordered my custom made replacement stainless steel exhaust & priced up the AC Snitzer suspension Ive had my eye on.
Also fitted my new plates to the car.
 
Changed my front dipped bulb, turned the lights on to check it worked, opened the door and took my key and locked the car.

Went past the car after getting home and realised I've left my lights on. Battery is flat as a fart. :o

Now charging my Nocco jump start battery pack. :D
 
The Noco turned out to be faulty and wouldn't jump start the car. I've read reviews saying they worked to start with and then failed and this happened to me. Used it a couple of times to jump start the cars and it worked fine. Not used it for a couple of years and now it's dead. Piece of **** so now I've had to take out the battery and use my old RAC battery charger and if that doesn't work I'm not having much luck!

If it weren't for the street being a car park at the weekends I'd have tried bump starting the thing!
 
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Nemiyen said:
The Noco turned out to be faulty and wouldn't jump start the car. I've read reviews saying they worked to start with and then failed and this happened to me. Used it a couple of times to jump start the cars and it worked fine. Not used it for a couple of years and now it's dead. Piece of **** so now I've had to take out the battery and use my old RAC battery charger and if that doesn't work I'm not having much luck!

If it weren't for the street being a car park at the weekends I'd have tried bump starting the thing!
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To be fair if it's not been used for a couple of years and left completely discharged it will degrade the internal battery a fair bit.

I've used no o jump starter and charger at work they've been superb.
 
andy_mk3 said:
To be fair if it's not been used for a couple of years and left completely discharged it will degrade the internal battery a fair bit.

I've used no o jump starter and charger at work they've been superb.
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True yeah that could be the case. I usually fully charge anything with a battery before it goes into storage, but I might have forgotten with this.

It's one of the reasons I prefer electric everything if possible but jump starters always come with a battery! I'd be happy to be proved wrong and I'll buy one that uses a plug socket!
 
Nemiyen said:
True yeah that could be the case. I usually fully charge anything with a battery before it goes into storage, but I might have forgotten with this.

It's one of the reasons I prefer electric everything if possible but jump starters always come with a battery! I'd be happy to be proved wrong and I'll buy one that uses a plug socket!
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You can get mains powered jump starters, although they are far from cheap! Had one of these at my last workplace.
 
Intended to change the auxiliary and power steering belts... Went out armed with 12mm and 14mm spanners and not a lot else...

Loosen 14mm pivot bolt. Fine with the assistance of a slightly dodgy extension. Attempt to loosen 12mm alternator tension bolt. Used a short ratchet handle. Sheared it off.

Spent the last couple of hours drilling it out and trying screw extractors but I think I'm going to walk down to the mechanic with it before I'm screwed. I've snapped a drill bit and 2 screw extractors (one at both ends :eek:).

Hopefully drill and tap it out easily enough and I can put the bloody thing back on. Was meant to drive out of town tonight.






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So I asked the family group chat.
New Fiesta, a 140i, or keep the current fiesta(64 reg, 83k miles) for a year and see.

Dad replied; Follow your heart...:rolleyes:
Mom replied; 140i, surely.

So I guess if anyone knows of a 140i for sale. Preferably not white (mate has one, but not against it...) in the Sunset Orange, Estoril Blue, or Mineral Grey, Shadow Edition, Pro Nav, and a sunroof, lemme know :p **

** - Pending some test drives towards the end of this week.

I've had the Fiesta for 3 years now and my next car is going to be a 4/5/6 year car. I'm confident the 140i is the better choice of the three for that. Also, in any case it feels like the last opportunity to have a proper engined car before they're all hybrid/Electric.

Hyundai's advert I saw yesterday. Something about leading the way, get electrified. **** off. 10 years ago the government were desperate to get everyone in Diesel's. Something new will come along and eV will be forgotten.
 
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jpaul said:
3-series rattling noise off rear of car 30->55mph - did some internal dismantling to inspect shock mounts, seem OK, shock boot has a split so was going to replace that anyway,
but don't think that's the noise source,
wheel bearing seems ok - despite hand brake off and in neutral, was surprised wheel spun easily with other wheel still on ground, transmission&diff has less drag than i expected.
did find a piece of internal re-broken trim, I'd glued after replacing shock mounts a couple of years back - am hoping that's the culprit - the cold stopped play.
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What gen 3 series? On my F30 I had a loud rattling noise when accelerating fairly quickly from a standstill. Turned out to be a clip that holds the handbrake cables in above the driveshaft, fairly common on the F3x. Proper fix involves dropping fuel tank and driveshaft but I just used 4 metal cable ties to hold it out the way.

Probably not your issue but worth a mention.
 
Nipped it over to Dexel on the way into work to sort out the slow puncture.

Repaired £19.50 - Hasn’t this gone up!

I’m a little OCD and don’t like knowing I have a repair in a Tyre but I know they are perfectly safe, but still.
 
Took alternator to garage, we ended up drilling the thread out to 8mm and replacing with a nut and bolt.

Whacked it back in, belt on, drove 75 miles.

Car didn't melt so the coolant pump must be running!
 
LuckyBenski said:
Took alternator to garage, we ended up drilling the thread out to 8mm and replacing with a nut and bolt.

Whacked it back in, belt on, drove 75 miles.

Car didn't melt so the coolant pump must be running!
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You took a half finished job to a man? Pfftt.... *unfriend*
 
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