I've turned g-sync off anyway now. It was causing too many problems on these new drivers.
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NVIDIA RTX 50 SERIES - Technical/General Discussion
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Associate
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Watch Buildzoid's response to that video. Linus knows very little about tech.
For benchmarking - GSync off
When gaming you don't want the FPS going above your refresh rate cos that can cause tearing, so it's best to use Gsync even with a powerful card
Aye correct but to be fair to ocuk, which is hard to do lately, there's another well known place selling the Palit for 500 more than ocuk. They're all at it still with the scalping but I have a feeling not for long, since we are now starting to see prices slowly fall... I reckon soon all the etailors will have little choice but be forced to sell for MSRP, that is if they don't want the cards sat on their shelves collecting dust. Proud of myself that I showed resilience and held out refusing to take it up the tailpipe by paying the criminally unjustified prices that some etailors were/are still charging.
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Ok... so my Asus 5090 TUF OC arrived yesterday - but I was away with work. I got home tonight, and one of the first things I did was remove my old 1070ti (yes - it's a long overdue upgrade) and fitted the 5090.
A couple of months ago, I fitted a brand new Corsair RM1000x PSU in preparation for this... so when installing the 5090, I used the specific (unused) 12V-2x6 cable that was supplied with the PSU. No sharp bends in the cable, and all routed neatly.
When I put the power cable into the back of the PC, a little red light came on next to the power socket on the GPU. When I actually powered the PC on, the TUF logo lit up and went through it's cycle... but none of the fans on the GPU came on. No output to my monitor either.
I plugged the HDMI cable into my onboard GPU and loaded up Windows. Device manager shows no nVidia GPU.
I've double checked all connectors, and they're all seated properly. What am I missing?
My Motherboard is a MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus - and I updated it to the most recent firmware a couple of months ago.
A couple of months ago, I fitted a brand new Corsair RM1000x PSU in preparation for this... so when installing the 5090, I used the specific (unused) 12V-2x6 cable that was supplied with the PSU. No sharp bends in the cable, and all routed neatly.
When I put the power cable into the back of the PC, a little red light came on next to the power socket on the GPU. When I actually powered the PC on, the TUF logo lit up and went through it's cycle... but none of the fans on the GPU came on. No output to my monitor either.
I plugged the HDMI cable into my onboard GPU and loaded up Windows. Device manager shows no nVidia GPU.
I've double checked all connectors, and they're all seated properly. What am I missing?
My Motherboard is a MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus - and I updated it to the most recent firmware a couple of months ago.
That little red light on the GPU is that the one that the 12V-2x6 cable plugs into? I think it's safety feature to protect the GPU that ASUS and Zotac built into their RTX 50 series cards. Have you tried unplugging and reinserting the 12V-2x6 cable? You should hear a little click when you insert the cable.
If this doesn't work, since you mentioned it's a brand new PSU are you able to test the new PSU with your old 1070Ti? If that works then perhaps connect the 4 PCI-E cables from the PSU to your RTX 5090 by using the 12V-2x6 adapter supplied with the GPU instead of using Corsair's cable.
Good luck! I hope you get it sorted.
I had a similar problem lights on but fans not spinning, i needed to push the card more firmly into the PCI-E slot.
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Thanks - good to know - because there is very little documentation either with the card or on their website. I had a definitive click when I plugged the 12V-2x6 cable into the card.
I've used the PSU with my 1070, however it uses a different connector.
Thanks...
Not actually sure what fixed it, but I took the PSU out and reseated the 12V-2x6 cable into that with great force. I also tried doing the same with the end into the 5090, and then gave the card an extra shove into the PCI-E slot.
No more red light, fans spin... and the card works
Thanks guys! I was wondering if I had a DOA card, but was confused as to why the lights were coming on but no one was home!!
Oh no... They released information from nvidia's board partners that they received in response to direct questions, and the responses were wrong!
Quick kill them!
So now LTT are supposed to have every variant of every board from every board partner ready to disassemble and/or X-ray just in case?
Oh, or buy one from a scalper. Yeah, cos that's such a great idea.
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No. Just present their facts by technical means instead of emailing the AIB.
Tested AC Shadows out on my Zotac 5090 Solid. Tried to go all in but can't get a strong 60FPS in the intro on max settings without upscaling with it so . Also the DLSS in it seemed a bit buggy, I thought the game didn't have it at first, but seems like it sometimes just doesn't show up as an option. I hope they patch that.
So far the fans are quite loud, though not really much worse than my 3080 fe was. I think the bigger annoyance is the fan will turn on randomly while I'm browsing. I assume it hits the fan stop temp limit. It's not the end of the world, but it's pretty noticable because I have quite a quiet fan curve on every other fan.
It has some coil whine which I expected, think it's a tad quieter than the 3080 fe it was replacing though. The fans drown it out mostly either way though.
So far the fans are quite loud, though not really much worse than my 3080 fe was. I think the bigger annoyance is the fan will turn on randomly while I'm browsing. I assume it hits the fan stop temp limit. It's not the end of the world, but it's pretty noticable because I have quite a quiet fan curve on every other fan.
It has some coil whine which I expected, think it's a tad quieter than the 3080 fe it was replacing though. The fans drown it out mostly either way though.
I've just tried AC Shadows and it is buggy as hell on a 5090. Worked ok at first, until I tried to use the Nvidia app to enable DLSS4. At that point, things went to hell in a handcart. First, DLSS stopped showing up as an option at all and then quitting the game gave me horrific black screen flicker, which I just about managed to get rid off by flicking g-sync on and off again.
My god Nvidia have some work to do on drivers.
Yeah I've been getting some weird flicker occasionally, I assumed it was the drivers with gsync as I've had the issue before when I've had both my TV/Monitor on at the same time with gsync on.
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Got my 5090 solid installed. No coil whine that I can hear and it seems fairly quiet (66C gpu, 70C mem in benchmarking). I can't get the card RGB (Zotac Gaming logo) the same as the motherboard even though the RGB cable is connected. Does anyone know how the fan profile button works and is a steel nomad score of 14201 about right for stock with a 9800x3d?
The problem with Linus is that he's not a complete moron and he has a team of engineers, yet despite his resources and on staff talent, he chooses to run production and development for the company as if it's still a Mickey Mouse tech YouTube channel
You literally cannot trust anything from an LTT video when it comes to any technical details, because without fail their videos contain fake news, misunderstandings, major factual errors and a general lack of understanding about the concept they are discussing. The last thing anyone should do is use an LTT video as a guide for which hardware to buy
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Hi guys,
Posted on reddit, but thought I would get some feedback here. So I managed to get a 5090 Suprim Liquid last week at UK 'MSRP' from a competitor at 2.7k GBP. This morning I got an alert to snag a 5090 FE at 1.9k GBP, so I went for it given its so much cheaper. I will only keep one, I have no interest in scalping and will offer to a friend at cost the one I don't want. Can I get general feedback from everyone on which to keep? Of course the price difference is big so that's the main thing. But also I keep reading online that the FE cards are not as good as the AIB cards, especially with coil whine. So if anyone has real world experience would be very helpful for me to choose the right card. If I do keep the FE then it will certainly be undervolted. My case is a Havn HS420, 5 140mm intakes, 1 140 exhaust, and a CPU AIO with 3 120mm fans exhaust.
Thank you in advance
Posted on reddit, but thought I would get some feedback here. So I managed to get a 5090 Suprim Liquid last week at UK 'MSRP' from a competitor at 2.7k GBP. This morning I got an alert to snag a 5090 FE at 1.9k GBP, so I went for it given its so much cheaper. I will only keep one, I have no interest in scalping and will offer to a friend at cost the one I don't want. Can I get general feedback from everyone on which to keep? Of course the price difference is big so that's the main thing. But also I keep reading online that the FE cards are not as good as the AIB cards, especially with coil whine. So if anyone has real world experience would be very helpful for me to choose the right card. If I do keep the FE then it will certainly be undervolted. My case is a Havn HS420, 5 140mm intakes, 1 140 exhaust, and a CPU AIO with 3 120mm fans exhaust.
Thank you in advance
Soldato
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If you're not sending either of them back then why not test them to see which one you prefer or if you think the more expensive one has some sort of benefit?Hi guys,
Posted on reddit, but thought I would get some feedback here. So I managed to get a 5090 Suprim Liquid last week at UK 'MSRP' from a competitor at 2.7k GBP. This morning I got an alert to snag a 5090 FE at 1.9k GBP, so I went for it given its so much cheaper. I will only keep one, I have no interest in scalping and will offer to a friend at cost the one I don't want. Can I get general feedback from everyone on which to keep? Of course the price difference is big so that's the main thing. But also I keep reading online that the FE cards are not as good as the AIB cards, especially with coil whine. So if anyone has real world experience would be very helpful for me to choose the right card. If I do keep the FE then it will certainly be undervolted. My case is a Havn HS420, 5 140mm intakes, 1 140 exhaust, and a CPU AIO with 3 120mm fans exhaust.
Thank you in advance
If it was me I would keep the cheaper one because I can't imagine there is possibly £800 worth of benefit from the AIB card.