Road Cycling

Was finally out in my Spatz Pro 2s and whilst it wasn't wet they were really nice and warm (4°C). I did go through a puddle and get them wet (would have soaked my normal overshoes), but nothing crazy.

Just need to find a puddle to stand in...
 
FFS, I have a hilly(ish) sportive tomorrow and I can't get my RD into the largest cog at the back. Everything is indexed perfectly, and it's definitely not the limit screw adjustment blocking off the largest cog.

It makes no difference which ring I'm in at the front.

The bike had new cables fitted a few weeks back - this is the first time I've even tried to select the easiest cog (bike has just sat on the training using ERG mode for weeks) so this is the first time I've spotted the problem.

Ideas? Cable issue? It's almost like there's not enough cable. Frig sake - I've no time to run this to the bike shop today and today is the only chance of fixing it. :(
 
You should be able to tell, does it try to shift and can’t?

Have you changed to a larger cassette or anything like that?

Not sure how confident you are in DIY. I’d undo the cable, actuate the mech by hand and ensure it can go in the largest cog, then will help see where your issues are.
 
Berger said:
Searched the whole machine, the Garmin express app had a dll with the same name as the rotor one, but with a slightly larger file size. Pasted it in the rotor folder and overwrote the one in there.
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Annoying or what! Must be different versions/updated version they need to bundle into the Rotor program, or at least warm you about :rolleyes:

mrthingyx said:
Was finally out in my Spatz Pro 2s and whilst it wasn't wet they were really nice and warm (4°C). I did go through a puddle and get them wet (would have soaked my normal overshoes), but nothing crazy.

Just need to find a puddle to stand in...
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Haha I've thought about doing that with mine just to 'prove' how good they are but chickened out... I've sprayed them with a hose to clean filth off them without an issue and ridden through lots of standing water & spray. They're great but mine have not ridden through a torrential downpour yet... But equally expecting them to be as excellent, even if they don't keep me perfectly dry, it'll still be head and shoulders better above anything else I've tried. The coverage/protection is excellent. But I can see riding in the warmer/muggier spring weather they'll be too warm! Certainly wouldn't want to wear them in a wet summer, the Pro might be better than the Roadman for that? Less insulation...

merlin said:
Ideas? Cable issue? It's almost like there's not enough cable. Frig sake - I've no time to run this to the bike shop today and today is the only chance of fixing it. :(
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Sounds like not enough cable length/stretch for it to go slack enough. Got much you can slacken off from the RD adjuster? Sounds like you basically need enough to move a whole gear 'over'. As you say you've checked the limit screw. As Berger says, remove cable from the equation to confirm (if you're slackening the cable off may aswell undo it anyway, then only takes 20s to push it over by hand to confirm limit screw again).

How are you adding tension to the cable when tightening things really does matter. There's some GCN 'trick' about being in a certain cog before tightening but I could never get that to work very well. I have one of the '3d hand' thingys to hold cable tension and it helps but usually still takes me a couple of tries to get it close when I change cables. Sometimes using the tool is a faff and takes longer than just doing it by hand and trial and error a couple of times... Just make sure you have your barrel adjuster somewhere in the middle so can adjust either way. Although I know I always do mine too loose so I wind mine right in...
 
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Thanks guys - just loosened off the cable and started again - it's now going in albeit only off the small front ring - I'll take that! Phew :)
 
Enough for a bailout - and that's all you need! ;)

Just check the top end when actually out on it before sportive to confirm, we all know how indexing can be 'perfect' in the stand, yet dire on the road... From what I can fathom some minor rub in your lowest gears is kinda expected/allowed for now by Shimano. Annoying for perfectionists (like me).
 
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Yeah tbh I've got used to the fact that indexing on the trainer vs off the trainer are two different things - the bike has very often needed a quarter turn on the RD when going on or off the trainer. I just imagined having to climb some ****** mini mountain without access to the 28T, it filled me with dread :p
 
If limit screws are set and the hanger is straight then the best order is to go into highest gear front and rear.

Disconnect cable.
Wind barrel adjust fully in then back off a out a whole turn.

Connect cable with reasonable hand tension.

Shift down one gear, 11th to 10th,to see if it even moves the mech, if not redo the cable with a bit more tension.

Once you get it shifting down one gear with one click stick it in the 4th cog up or whatever gives a straight chain line.

Look from the rear and try to tell if the chain is going to the left or right when coming off the sprocket.

If it's towards the mech then add a quarter turn at a time until the chain is vertically in line from sprocket to jockey wheel.

If its trying to shift down to the next sprocket then take tension off until the chain is vertically in line with th the jockey wheel.

Do a quarter at a time and shift up and down the gears to let it settle in before adjusting more.

Once each shift results in a gear change up the block make sure it drops down from the bigger cogs. If it's sluggish then back off tension a quarter turn.

When looking from the back the way you turn the barrel adjuster is the way you want the chain to move.

The newer shadow style mech barrel adjusters can be annoying with tension on them. The plastic cap turns but doesn't actually turn the metal threaded part. I tend to push the mech into the larger cog by hand, pull the outer cable out of the adjuster and turn it with no pressure applied.


Wall of text.
 
Thanks Jonny - absolutely right on the barrel adjuster - for ages I thought turning it was doing something so I was scratching my head as nothing was changing, the knob was just rotating and not moving the blooming threaded screw - thought I was going mad.

It's now totally playing ball, it's going into the largest cog at the back, but only when on the smallest front ring - I can totally live with that as I tend not to cross-chain anyway, we all know kittens die because of large front cog to large rear cog.
 
merlin said:
I just imagined having to climb some ****** mini mountain without access to the 28T, it filled me with dread :p
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Haha. There are no mountains in the midlands! ;)

What's the route/ride? :D

Really need to decide if I'm doing the same one as last year as my first of 2020. Really should as without it last year my sportive/event riding pretty much totally sucked.

EDIT: Domokun! Wow it's been a while.
 
Roady said:
I'm not a huge fan of White either, but then always said that about cars and currently own a white Fiesta and actually love the way it looks, so I could be converted...!

The RS785 with the straight hoses, not the banjo's! Nearly learnt that one the hard way when ordering my replacement! Did hear that the fitting is the only difference, they could be mixed and matched with MTB levers to road calipers for those wanting to put flat bars on a road bike... Unsure if you can still do that with the newer? I did a little bit of reading into if the Di2 8070 levers would work with my RS785 calipers and seemed to think they would (switching to Di2 I'd have to retain post mount calipers for my frame)... Still not 100% but can't think Shimano would've broken cross compatibility at this stage as they're normally good at retaining it.

Weird. Maybe make sure installing as Admin account, or maybe install under compatibility mode?

Any prerequisities listed in install instructions?
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All Shimano 2 piston calipers are the same 22mm pistons I believe so should feel the same, it's a matter of the right hose and hose fitting.

Roady said:
Enough for a bailout - and that's all you need! ;)

Just check the top end when actually out on it before sportive to confirm, we all know how indexing can be 'perfect' in the stand, yet dire on the road... From what I can fathom some minor rub in your lowest gears is kinda expected/allowed for now by Shimano. Annoying for perfectionists (like me).
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Last time I looked the low limit screw range on the newer mechs is 0-0.5mm so can be pretty much touching the replaceable skid plate. They are very sensitive to the angle they are set up at and I've had some bikes where the low screw just stops doing anything and the mech is rubbing on the chain. That will be a chainline issue rather than a mech issue though.
 
And yet another organised ride called off, this week is our clubs reliability ride tomorrow which I was quite looking forward to. Can't wait to go to spain in 3 weeks after this winter!
 
I'm thinking of trying to sell my wheels separate to the bike, so paid the postage and bought one online :)

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Any elemnt bolt users had a problem updating the firmware - I'm in a loop of "checking" "Downloading 0%" "checking".

I tried a factory reset but there's no change...
 
Wet, cold, windy. Left home and it was raining but the forecast was to get better and I’ve been getting a bit sick of the trainer.

But by then my feet were soaked and cold. Turned into a hard ride, 270w NP for the two 1/2 hours of the bunch, felt a bit sick, when I peeled off for home bonked big time.

Got home ate two jam sandwiches had a coffee and then went and sat in the shower, feet hurting as they warmed back up.

Rode through a few floods, one almost up to the hubs and bb. checked my inpower when I got home. Perfectly dry, the cover is super tight to fit and has an O ring but good to know. Good job I drilled a hole in the BB shell earlier in the week too!
 
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