Soldato
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Where in the loop are you placing the dual rad? Before your quad? And out of interest, where did you get the Lian Li bezels from?
[OcUK Staff Builds] rjkoneill's TJ07
- Thread starter rjk
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Soldato
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Ah ok nice to know 
As for the bezels, I have found them else where 
As for the bezels, I have found them else where
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Soldato
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TJ07 is far better than Antec 1200 to be honest! More space and roomy for custom water!
Associate
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- 25 Jun 2009
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- Middlesbrough
Drools....
Soldato
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You still using those on your Gigabyte board? Toying with either nickel/acetal or nicklel/plexi blocks for myself, so wasn't sure what looks best next to the UD5.
I meant to ask Rich, how much space do you have on that Bitspower mod top after fitting it with the compression fittings? Any chance of a little photo of what the fittings look like on the pump top?
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they leave you with no space at all my friend, in fact to get mine working correctly i had to use the dual rotary fittings.
my advice if you are looking at the bitspower top. please please please get the V1 and NOT the V2
the v2 which i have is a pain and the v1 accommodates bitsy comp fittings well [up to 7/16, i dont think 1/2 would fit on either top tbh]
hope this helps
my advice if you are looking at the bitspower top. please please please get the V1 and NOT the V2
the v2 which i have is a pain and the v1 accommodates bitsy comp fittings well [up to 7/16, i dont think 1/2 would fit on either top tbh]
hope this helps
Update: Photography
reviewing my work i must admit my photography is rather fail.
i am a computer tech and not a photographer. i wouldnt know how to work a good camera if my life depended on it.
my current shots are taken with a Sony DSC-W110 which is a very basic point and shoot but serves me well.
i have been reading a few beginners photography forums recently and gained the following knowledge:
1. my camera sucks
2. i need a tripod
3. still images should be taken using a timer
so accounting for all of these three facts i have done my best to make the photography in this update at least half decent.
i took on board the advice in points 2 and 3 and got a tripod and sorted the timer out. the results are much better. my camera still sucks.
onwards with the updates.
some more in depth shots of the fantastic Gigabyte UD7 with EK Nickel Plexi full cover blocks.
then the front of my case will be filled with these vented bezels from Lian Li, they have dust filters in them but i may remove them.
behind the vented bezels will be my dual radiator. I wanted more active cooling in the loop and this will be ran in series after the Quad thermochill to keep that fermi under control. the rad will be mounted in the front using the lian li mounting kit that i had from an old build and a white P clip to keep things nice and tidy
then there is this beautiful piece of work. which will be stealth mounted to the board using the coolit backplate and m3 hex screws from earlier on in the build.
i am going to be upgrading my memory to a higher performance part and did want to run a Mips memory cooler. i emailled them directly asking for their dominator cooler with a nickel backplate and a plexi top. but they said that they weren't willing to work with plexi, so that idea has to be scrapped. i may go for some nickel plated extended dominator fins to match all the shiny blocks.
at the moment i am stuck between blue coolant and clear coolant. give your opinions on this if you feel you can input
my partner in crime NathWraith has been fantastic in ordering me my parts.[thats why OcUK stock that cpu block unsurprisingly] we have some clear tygon tubing on its way to us too which i will be modding by removing the tygon logos. this will provide superior flexability as well as preventing bacterial growth. should be here next week meaning i will be able to get started on what will be the final rebuild of this system.
reviewing my work i must admit my photography is rather fail.
i am a computer tech and not a photographer. i wouldnt know how to work a good camera if my life depended on it.
my current shots are taken with a Sony DSC-W110 which is a very basic point and shoot but serves me well.
i have been reading a few beginners photography forums recently and gained the following knowledge:
1. my camera sucks
2. i need a tripod
3. still images should be taken using a timer
so accounting for all of these three facts i have done my best to make the photography in this update at least half decent.
i took on board the advice in points 2 and 3 and got a tripod and sorted the timer out. the results are much better. my camera still sucks.
onwards with the updates.
some more in depth shots of the fantastic Gigabyte UD7 with EK Nickel Plexi full cover blocks.
then the front of my case will be filled with these vented bezels from Lian Li, they have dust filters in them but i may remove them.
behind the vented bezels will be my dual radiator. I wanted more active cooling in the loop and this will be ran in series after the Quad thermochill to keep that fermi under control. the rad will be mounted in the front using the lian li mounting kit that i had from an old build and a white P clip to keep things nice and tidy
then there is this beautiful piece of work. which will be stealth mounted to the board using the coolit backplate and m3 hex screws from earlier on in the build.
i am going to be upgrading my memory to a higher performance part and did want to run a Mips memory cooler. i emailled them directly asking for their dominator cooler with a nickel backplate and a plexi top. but they said that they weren't willing to work with plexi, so that idea has to be scrapped. i may go for some nickel plated extended dominator fins to match all the shiny blocks.
at the moment i am stuck between blue coolant and clear coolant. give your opinions on this if you feel you can input
my partner in crime NathWraith has been fantastic in ordering me my parts.[thats why OcUK stock that cpu block unsurprisingly] we have some clear tygon tubing on its way to us too which i will be modding by removing the tygon logos. this will provide superior flexability as well as preventing bacterial growth. should be here next week meaning i will be able to get started on what will be the final rebuild of this system.
I'm thinking of getting the vented bezels for my v2000 to keep the uniformity of the front of my case. Deffinately interested in your stealth mount on the supreme as the stock mounting system is far from attractive for such a good looking block.
you need to. i saw a mod on Xs a few weeks back that swapped the blanks for the vented and it looked superb. i think it would do the front of your project a lot of favours aesthetically
the stock mount for the supreme does look a bit rubbish tbh, but its the only thing EK arent doing right in fairness. their current range is better than ever.
i will maybe do a tutorial or an in depth guide when i assemble the rig to show you. the backplate i got is off a broken coolit domino cooler but works really well for the mod. all will become more clear when i post it up
indeed they do. thats why i went all out on this one.
the nickel 480 is something you can show to people who know nothing about hardware and their jaw drops.
shiny blocks are indeed shiney
Soldato
- Joined
- 30 May 2009
- Posts
- 4,638
- Location
- Maidenhead
they leave you with no space at all my friend, in fact to get mine working correctly i had to use the dual rotary fittings.
my advice if you are looking at the bitspower top. please please please get the V1 and NOT the V2
the v2 which i have is a pain and the v1 accommodates bitsy comp fittings well [up to 7/16, i dont think 1/2 would fit on either top tbh]
hope this helps
Thanks Rich. Loving the photo's of the new parts
That CPU block is just...amazing! Will that dual rad be mounted vertically in the drive bays I assume? With the fans blowing out through the Lian Li bezels? I might have to steal that idea for my build I would also be interested to see the tutorial on how to mount the EK blocks. I don't really know how the current ones mount (will have to find a pic) but your version looks excellent As for the Bitspower block, I managed to find a solution:
Using the Bitspower G1/4" extenders, and then you can use the 1/2" ID compression fittings. As seen below (hope you don't mind me posting this in your build log, if you want, feel free to remove)
Out of interest, what made you decide to switch from the Nickel/Acetal blocks to the Nickel/Plexi blocks? Do they Acetal ones not look so good?
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ME WANT SHINY !!! ... lots of shiny ..
Crap .. I need a working PC to put shiny into ... Grrrrrr
Girlfriend wants holiday to Maldives ... GRRRRR ... now can't afford fix PC OR buy shiny ...
nevermind, I just found halfa Yorkie down the side of the sofa ... !
NOT FOR GIRLS!!
FYI - RJK this looks tasteh !! .. it's missing some surgery though .. I have this only slightly used, good as new tool you can "borrow" !! ?
Crap .. I need a working PC to put shiny into ... Grrrrrr
Girlfriend wants holiday to Maldives ... GRRRRR ... now can't afford fix PC OR buy shiny ...
nevermind, I just found halfa Yorkie down the side of the sofa ... !
NOT FOR GIRLS!!
FYI - RJK this looks tasteh !! .. it's missing some surgery though .. I have this only slightly used, good as new tool you can "borrow" !! ?
Associate
- Joined
- 25 Jun 2009
- Posts
- 226
- Location
- Middlesbrough
Wow, you have a desk made with gravel!
Looking forward to this; you do really clean and neat builds. (And sexy, if a PC can ever be called sexy!
)
Looking forward to this; you do really clean and neat builds. (And sexy, if a PC can ever be called sexy!
)