The Manly Shaving Thread

I'm still only a few shaves in since entering the DE fold, but having some difficulties - Hopefully you could shed some light...

1) I am really struggling to make good lather. I am using a Proraso Menthol and Eucalyptus soap with a Vulfix 660s badger brush. I have watched numerous Youtube videos but I am struggling to get a good lather. I never get to the stage where, when applied, I cannot see my face at all. I've tried experimenting with water amounts but it does not seem related. Any advice? How long would you swirl the brush in the soap before beginning to swirl the brush in a bowl to produce lather?

2) What passes would you recommend? Each guide I read differs slightly. I tend to find three passes as follows works best: (1) North -> South (with the grain), (2) South -> North (against the grain), (3) Outward -> Inward (touch up). Does this sound okay? I tried a method which omitted (2) but that has produced a far worse shave. I do find I am getting a few little nicks but I think that is more due to the lather issue mentioned above.

3) I find the shaver (Muhle R89 with a Derby Extra) gets clogged up very quickly. Is this normal? I tend to shake the shaver in water after few strokes. I do not 'notice' the clogging but when I clean the shaver afterwards I can see a build up of hair on each side of each edge of the razor. Any advice? Is it normal to need to clean/remove the blade during a shave?

Thank you!

RastaManBob said:

I'm still only a few shaves in since entering the DE fold, but having some difficulties - Hopefully you could shed some light...

1) I am really struggling to make good lather. I am using a Proraso Menthol and Eucalyptus soap with a Vulfix 660s badger brush. I have watched numerous Youtube videos but I am struggling to get a good lather. I never get to the stage where, when applied, I cannot see my face at all. I've tried experimenting with water amounts but it does not seem related. Any advice? How long would you swirl the brush in the soap before beginning to swirl the brush in a bowl to produce lather?

2) What passes would you recommend? Each guide I read differs slightly. I tend to find three passes as follows works best: (1) North -> South (with the grain), (2) South -> North (against the grain), (3) Outward -> Inward (touch up). Does this sound okay? I tried a method which omitted (2) but that has produced a far worse shave. I do find I am getting a few little nicks but I think that is more due to the lather issue mentioned above.

3) I find the shaver (Muhle R89 with a Derby Extra) gets clogged up very quickly. Is this normal? I tend to shake the shaver in water after few strokes. I do not 'notice' the clogging but when I clean the shaver afterwards I can see a build up of hair on each side of each edge of the razor. Any advice? Is it normal to need to clean/remove the blade during a shave?

Thank you!

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1. Make sure you soak your brush in hot water and then shake most of it out prior to adding soap/cream. If using cream I'd recommend around 3-5 seconds of swirling. Holding the tub upside down can help get the cream into the brush. The quality of the cream will be a factor for a good lather. Only add a small amount of water at a time when generating a lather.

2. When starting don't go against the grain at all. Most expert barbers will never go against the grain at all. Start with north to south, then north to south again, making sure you rinse your face with warm water in between passes. You can replace the 2nd pass with ear to chin diagonally if you wish. a 3rd pass may be required but this you can judge yourself.

3. I've not had this personally but can only assume that you leave shaves several days each time? It may be worth lessening the periods between shaves to make things easier for yourself.

Well, my waxed 'tache is back! If I can get a decent pic I'll post it up, getting impressive.

Thank you for the replies.

Feek, I am using the Proraso in a (green) tub. If 3-5 seconds is not enough then what is? Alternatively, how can I 'tell' when I've done it enough? This is almost certainly my issue as I've never loaded for more than 3-5 seconds (thinking doing so would be overboard).

I lather in a bowl and this is what I'd prefer to do at least initially. The only issue with doing so in a bowl is that it leads itself to lathering in circles which I've read is not good for the life of the brush, so I am trying to alternate this with different strokes. (Generally about 3 seconds loading and 30 seconds lathering). I think improving this lather (which by the sounds of it should be a simple enough improvement) will greatly improve the shave over all.

Finally, Zat, why would you avoid against the grain? It seems that almost every guide I've read does at least one 'against the grain' pass, the exceptions only being for those new to DE shaving to avoid irritation. I actually find omitting the against the grain pass causes more irritation as I struggle to get a closer shave with the grain and do more (probably unnecessary) passes.

Thanks!

RastaManBob said:

Finally, Zat, why would you avoid against the grain? It seems that almost every guide I've read does at least one 'against the grain' pass, the exceptions only being for those new to DE shaving to avoid irritation. I actually find omitting the against the grain pass causes more irritation as I struggle to get a closer shave with the grain and do more (probably unnecessary) passes.

Thanks!

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I used to do against the grain passes and whilst you do get a great finish, every pro barber I've spoken to doesn't recommend them. They can lead to redness, burn, ingrown hairs etc. I personally get close to an against the grain pass with 2 or sometimes 3 normal passes. Its personal preference at the end of the day, we all have different skin, hair, technique etc.

I forgot to bring my razor back to uni! I can get it in about a months time and I don't grow much hair quickly, so I thought I would make do for this month by buying 3-blade disposables... it's HORRIBLE!!!!

Rastamanbob - I use Proraso soap. I use a lolly stick to spoon out a pea size amount into my bowl. I also swirl the brush in the soap tub for a few moments loading it well. I then swirl the loaded brush and the pea in the bowl for about a minute. You need to add enough water at the start so it looks quite "suddsy" to begin (lots of big bubbles). By continually working this with your brush you will break down the bubbles and create a smooth lather.

HTH

Feek said:

My first pass is with the grain.
Second is across the grain.
Third is against the grain.
Then I add an against the grain touch-up on my neck if required.

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Exactly the same method I use daily.

Great, thanks for the help! I think my main problems are simply down to not using enough soap. Ideally fixing this and everything else will work itself. I might try shaving without an against the grain pass again (but with correctly worked lather) to see how it differs to my against the grain passes.

^ That's the best type of packaging, nice and simple!

RastaManBob said:

1) I am really struggling to make good lather. I am using a Proraso Menthol and Eucalyptus soap with a Vulfix 660s badger brush. I have watched numerous Youtube videos but I am struggling to get a good lather. I never get to the stage where, when applied, I cannot see my face at all. I've tried experimenting with water amounts but it does not seem related. Any advice? How long would you swirl the brush in the soap before beginning to swirl the brush in a bowl to produce lather?

Click to expand...

You ended up with the Vulfix 660S? Nice! Best £ for £ brush by miles! It's dead easy to get a good lather with Proraso, just follow everyone's advice above. Actually, I'll use it tonight and take some pics!


Here we go... a nice simple method for quick and easy lather.

1. Run brush under a tap (hot or cold) and flick off the excess water, one flick will do.

2. Swirl the brush in the Proraso pot for 10 seconds, not too hard and chuck in a few paint stokes for good measure. Make sure all the tips are loaded, if it gets too dry add a few drops of water. It'll look something like this.


3. Start swirling the brush on your face, in a bowl or on your palm (as I did here) the 660S is great for all methods. Only lightly press the brush down when mixing, maybe around about 5mm or until the top has flattened down halfway to the edges.
You'll get light 'proto' lather real quick.


4. Keep swirling and occasionally scrape the lather back in your palm/bowl/face from the brush. That's the stuff you need to 'work' into a full lather.


5. Add a few drops of water or quickly dip the tips under a tap/bowl when it gets a bit thick. I only needed to do this once or twice for this lather.
(Soaking the brush negates adding extra water but it's harder to get the perfect mix, adding it bit by bit makes it easier to see everything coming together and if you add too much water you can just go back to the Proraso for a 1-2 second load.)


6. When you can fill the brush with gobs of lovely menthol goodness start painting it on your face and enjoy More than enough for 3 passes and touch ups.
Thick and glossy is great advice and don't be afraid experiment with consistency, even between passes, you can always go back to the tub/add more water, it doesn't take long.


Edit: Forgot to add the classic bloom shot


Enjoy the brush!

RastaManBob said:

Odd question: What is the best/safest way to dispose of used blades? I'm concerned that a bin man could cut himself should he be rather unlucky and catch the blade. At the moment I wrap the used blades in tissue paper which I feel is sufficient but I'm wondering if there is a better way...

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Can you still buy these at supermarkets? It makes the perfect blade bank, then safely recycle when its full.

Thanks, lather always looks better in photos Our water is medium-hard that occasionally seems to destroy all slickness, esp with fatty soaps. I have to wash off the first pass lather and add a pre shave oil to my face when that happens.

That moment you miss your delivery for everything by ten damn minutes...

Been having "proper" shaves for about a year now. I went straight for Feather blades. I think they're a bit much for me - my hair is extremely thin/soft and I only need to shave a couple of times per week! I'm not slicing myself with the Feathers, but they do seem very hard on my baby-soft features I'm happy with my soap/lather and technique.....I think I'd like to try some less insane blades though. Any suggestions? Or should I just get a selection and try them all?

Curio said:

Or should I just get a selection and try them all?

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Yus

And it all arrived.

Am I the only one who is satisfied with Derby's?
I can get bbs after three passes and I don't see how I can get any better than that.

Thanks for the replies all - Especially for the photo guide sarge. Unfortunately I just attempted to follow it and failed, miserably. Whilst I was able to get *better* lather I still struggled to get a good, full lather. I'm not sure if it is because the bowl is too wide (I find I end up 'pushing' the lather around rather than working it and it usually works it's way up the side of the bowl before I have to keep moving it back), but it was purchased from Connaught Shaving [1] so I assume it's suitable. I think frustration crept in eventually and I had the worst shave that I've had from a DE so far with numerous nicks and one cut enough to require the styptic pencil (the alum block was not enough).

I must admit, I do wonder if DE shaving is just not for me. I get the theory of it and really want it to click but I must admit I got better shaves with a Gillette Fusion. I'll keep trying but it does sometimes cross my mind 'I was getting on fine with the Gillette, so why change? The answer, for me at least, is because I've now invested too much into DE to at least not give it a chance. Having said this, I might go back to canned glop with the DE and work on one aspect at a time as at the moment I am new to every component of the experience and trying it all 'for the first time' - Clearly there is something I am doing wrong and I need to work out what.

Thank you, again, for all of the support!

(Having just written all that and ran my hand over my face, cuts aside, it is a damned good shave - I just need to get this lather right and ensure I've got the correct angle with the blade... Maybe I'm just being a little down on it after another bad experience!).

[1] http://connaughtshaving.com/shavebowl.html

I'd suggest going back to canned glop for shaving and practice making lather. You can't get the technique 100% right without using it but you can get close enough to start using it to shave. I had to do this when I started.

I don't know if I can really offer much advice as I've never used a soft soap yet. Only creams and hard soaps.

When I add water I dip my fingers in the sink and let 2-3 drops drip off into the bowl. Fast way to add tiny amounts of water. Lather is a strange thing you want as much water as you can in it without it being too much. When the water is enough and the bubble size right the lather will be shiny. Getting the glossy look is how I know it is right.