1930s Semi Refurb - Part 1 of ... (Edition: Bathroom Relocation)

what's the houses aspect out the back windows - nicer to have south bedrooms, whereas bathroom is less important;

putting bath under window too makes it more claustrophobic, than orthogonal, where you get some exterior angled light, also, having basin against a window with (smaller) mirror is nice too for shaving etc.
Depending on space a combined kidney shaped bath/shower tray can be nice too, if stepping over edge is not an issue, rather than a smaller shower area - how bigs the tray you can fit in ?
(older parents just had bath taken out with a shower area probably 1.5*1m where you can easily turn round, previous separate one was cramped, it's a wetroom, built on a former, but didn't really need to be - buffmans looks good))
 
jpaul said:
what's the houses aspect out the back windows - nicer to have south bedrooms, whereas bathroom is less important;

putting bath under window too makes it more claustrophobic, than orthogonal, where you get some exterior angled light, also, having basin against a window with (smaller) mirror is nice too for shaving etc.
Depending on space a combined kidney shaped bath/shower tray can be nice too, if stepping over edge is not an issue, rather than a smaller shower area - how bigs the tray you can fit in ?
(older parents just had bath taken out with a shower area probably 1.5*1m where you can easily turn round, previous separate one was cramped, it's a wetroom, built on a former, but didn't really need to be - buffmans looks good))
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Yeah exactly that. The current bathroom looks out over the garden, allotments. It is South Easterly facing.

I'll play about with the layout. No issue with stepping over but the window was made for a bedroom so it's quite large height wise.

I've always fancied a separate shower but you're right that large than 90cm may be the only way forward. Tbc if that actually fits though!
 
dLockers said:
Top man, just had a look, big inspiration overall. Thanks!

Luckily the waste for the toilet can go straight out of the wall. I assume it will run the same as the existing bathroom for the sink but worst case I can get creative...

I will put that on my list as one of the first jobs tho!

What's the crack for getting water pipes through joists? Is there a trick?
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I'm unsure if bathroom or the kitchen was my favourite change :) Hope it helps with what I meant with the PVC planks lol

Pipes thru joists... Just a fast/speed bit really helps with the speedfit piping as well (Pay the price for the proper cutter too)
Was far cheaper to buy in reels then individual pipes when we did ours, it unrolls well and a quick blast of the hair dryer helps too :)
 
dLockers said:
1. How to get started:
--- the room is currently plastered and then has lining paper, so I assume the plaster may be shot. Should I go back to brick and line every wall?
--- the ceiling is lathe and plaster and is sagging in one of the rooms. It looks visually "OK" but again may not stand up to bathroom wear and tear?
--- the floor needs lifting and then I'll assess services; the IKEA mock-up has the toilet sitting on the outside wall. Is there any tips on knocking into the existing drain? It'll be about 3 metres from the original waste pipe
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Rip it all back and start fresh. Ceiling, I do now favour the PVC panels.

dLockers said:
2. Technically how to do a curbless shower (is it worth it?)?
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Nope. Technically, works in a wetroom. Not hard but not worth it imo.
dLockers said:
4. Any tips on running a new plumbing system?
--- can the water tank be relocated to the loft?
--- is it worth ripping out the copper system and putting in plastic?
--- how much can do I before I pay a plumber to come in and fit the new boiler/commission the new system?
5. Any tips on wiring up the bathroom? I want a demisting mirror and a shaver/toothbrush charger ideally.
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Its not worth swapping out good copper, but any unnecessary joins etc under floors. Get rid and replace entire runs with plastic.

You cant DIY wire the bathroom up yourself unless its all RCD protected from the CU, inc light circuits.

Your Ikea mock up leaves you with 2 bits of wasted space either side of bath. What size is the shower?
 
Have you got a picture of the front & back of the property? Are you sure the waste pipe is a 100mm soil stack connected to foul drainage or is a surface water/guttering connection?

I only say this as I believe it will have issues connecting to the surface water connection (irrelevant of if they combine downstream)
 
may need some head provided by a loft water tank to get good water pressure for shower, or a ground level pumped shower system, or both,
pumped mira system folks just had, has transformed the shower experience from gravity alone - turns it up to 11.
 
200sols said:
Rip it all back and start fresh. Ceiling, I do now favour the PVC panels.
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Can I strip the plaster, then board the walls in cement board, and tile directly onto the cement board?


200sols said:
Its not worth swapping out good copper, but any unnecessary joins etc under floors. Get rid and replace entire runs with plastic.
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I'll need to run entirely new connections -- I am thinking it makes the most sense to go via the walls, and into the attic, and then basically form a "duct" of some description from the roof to the kitchen where the boiler is. Alternatively I could put the boiler in the loft but that is a whole bunch of other challenges.

Maybe my first job is to create access in each of the rooms to the pipework so I can suss things out...

200sols said:
Your Ikea mock up leaves you with 2 bits of wasted space either side of bath. What size is the shower?
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I need a rewire as well so similar to the plumbing; I am planning to do the runs and then get a sparks to connect it up and swap the fuse box at the same time.


200sols said:
Your Ikea mock up leaves you with 2 bits of wasted space either side of bath. What size is the shower?
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TBC - I measured approx. 130cm available to me but the ceiling slopes at the wall. The current bathroom (mirrored) is like this:


OsPDLCZ.jpeg

So I figure (and apols to confuse and use the pic above but the other room currently in use!):
* Make the door open into the hall
* Shower unit where the grey cupboard is pictured, with a shower tray extending to where the bath is. This would be the entrance

Either side of the bath would be nothing - depending on bath. The picture in my OP is what it could look like.

Buffman said:
Have you got a picture of the front & back of the property? Are you sure the waste pipe is a 100mm soil stack connected to foul drainage or is a surface water/guttering connection?

I only say this as I believe it will have issues connecting to the surface water connection (irrelevant of if they combine downstream)
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Here is the side:

N76XSns.jpeg

Looks like the guttering from the roof bins onto the extension roof which then goes into a sealed drain.

Essentially I'd have the same pipework you see on the left, mirrored to the right. I'd have to consider the drop to avoid the window but I'm sure more drop isn't an issue?

jpaul said:
may need some head provided by a loft water tank to get good water pressure for shower, or a ground level pumped shower system, or both,
pumped mira system folks just had, has transformed the shower experience from gravity alone - turns it up to 11.
Click to expand...

100%. Annoyingly we thought we'd hit gold with the current shower as it was pumped..........for one day only. It must have seized immediately after lol. Our last house I fitted a Mira shower with a pump though and it would strip the dirt off of you like a pressure washer :cry:
 
dLockers said:
Can I strip the plaster, then board the walls in cement board, and tile directly onto the cement board?

Essentially I'd have the same pipework you see on the left, mirrored to the right. I'd have to consider the drop to avoid the window but I'm sure more drop isn't an issue?
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Yes you can tile straight onto cement boards.


Yes you want the drop to be fair consistent as else you can have blockage problems if its too sharp, I think its on building regs the necessary fall for a waste pipe. But as you say it looks workable as long as you connect to that soil stack.
 
Right chaps, I am able to use the room as an office today so I can get a better feel for the space. I've done a couple of options:

Option 1 -

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Option 2:
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Option 1 I like because I get separate bath and shower, but the leg room for the toilet seems pretty tight. It also leaves a bit of open floor space to move.

Option 2 is better than I expected as I used a slightly smaller shower enclosure as originally the 74cm gap was something daft like 60. It also gives much more manspreading room on the toilet.

Thoughts??

I guess Option 3 would be a shower in bath situation which to be fair isn't a bad solution either...
 
I'd go option 2 (bias as it is the layout in our current bathroom and our future one!) option 1 feels too cramp round the toilet and option 3 has no separate shower cubicle which I would also want!
 
Option 3 for me, I just don't think the room is big enough for separate bath and shower

You could fit a nice bath with extended width (L shaped) at shower end and have a nice comfortable shower opposed to a cramped shower cubicle
 
roccles said:
Option 3 for me, I just don't think the room is big enough for separate bath and shower

You could fit a nice bath with extended width (L shaped) at shower end and have a nice comfortable shower opposed to a cramped shower cubicle
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Do you know if they are any good though? I fitted one (L shaped) for my mum years and years ago, and it just felt a bit cheap/flexible.
 
I have a oval/bean shaped bath which is bigger at the shower end so can't comment on L shaped specifically although I think the L shaped ones look better that what I have.

I have a rain fall head attached ceiling and a separate "normal" head and it's great with plenty of room.

I won't use the shower in the ensuite which is a cubicle as I struggle to move in there, I am 6'3 and quite chunky so this maybe not be an issue for you
 
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