1930s Semi Refurb - Part 1 of ... (Edition: Bathroom Relocation)

Rightyo....got the IKEA day bed out finally. Got the desk out too. Onto the real work......... now I can see the space better, I am a TAD concerned about how tight it'll be. I have put the idea of a shower over both back on the table, as a 1650 bath would still give me a 750 space for the toilet (your legs).

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Overlay where the bath goes.

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Mark on wall is a 770 space for the toilet.

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Showering space. The hip of the roof is JUST right for a decent shower height (2m pole, so 6ft 10" shower head height). However, on reflection, water spraying towards the door may be a bit odd. So I measured up the space, and I have 900 from the wall, so the shower can go on the "high" wall.

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The cocnern is the bath ends where that changing mat on the floor is, so there is limited space for a vanity, without it almost ended up behind the bath.........

I think I'd have to switch the door to open the other way, otherwise you'd smack into the vanity.

Wildcard 2 is back to a shower over bath.........loads of space for a vanity then. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
 
Reeeet.........think I am set on a totally different track now.

I'd really appreciate any guidance on building out the false wall to house the bath taps - I want to keep it as tight as possible - I think the Grohe wall mount unit can cope with 135mm min distance, and most niches I have seen are 100mm deep.

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Potentially a lower niche for bath bomb stuff, too.
 
Showboat said:
Are you putting the shower in behind the door? It looks like space is limited height wise with the sloping roof. Most shower enclosures are about 2m high, so you may need something custom.
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Yeah ironically I'm building exactly what I already have just in a different room.

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So I know the slant is within tolerance/has never been an issue. I just need to be mindful the new bath isn't super high.

The niche in this bathroom came for free as they blocked up an old window with a single thickness brick.
 
200sols said:
The xps tile boards are also insulation. So you can just use a thicker board and solve 2 jobs in one.
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What I can't get my head around tho is building the false wall. Presumably I want the plumbing on the warm side to stop condensation, so either way I'd be insulated the wall, then building the false wall from that bit?

You're still right but maybe if it's cheaper I can get non tileboard stuff?
 
200sols said:
I maybe have pictures I can check later. They stick these toilet frames in rubbish metal stud walls and they are solid. Taps offset to bath though, are you sure that will look good?
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The main thing I'm trying to achieve with the stud wall is the niche. So I can either....

Remove plaster
Insulate
Stud out

Or

Remove plaster
Stud
Insulate

Option 1 means I'll lose 30mm or w/e before I've gained any depth for niche. Option 2 means the plumbing will be between the insulation and the cold wall.

Maybe I'm overthinking it - I'd just remove/cut into insulation to regain depth on option 1. The batons would be cold bridges but probs not the end of the world/better than naff all.

Pics would be appreciated!
 
200sols said:
Thinking though, if you need to stud out 130mm for the frame then you have no reason to remove the plaster at all.

Insulate the wall, set timber studs infront of this (90mm cls will work). Space 2 studs so the frame sits between, strengthen with noggins. Marmox niche is 90mm deep iircz this leaves you loads of room for pipes, valves, taps etc.
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Ah you mean board over what I have already in something like insulated plasterboard/tileboard/XPS, and then just stud out and clad that in tileboard?

To be fair the yellow layer may as well be PIR?

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I could save a bit of depth by notching the insulation layer but then will get cold spots (no biggie if its behind a false wall?).
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
You just triggered me to go and check my niches as they are up against an outside wall. (very thin layer of grip fill behind them connecting them to cavity wall)
They are colder than the normal wall that has plasterboard behind it, which itself is actually colder than the false wall the niches sit in.
Mine are self made osb niches with twin wall PVC over the top (she wanted sparkly walls!). Mine arent in a shower however, they are over a bath so much much lower risk of any water escaping via them compared to a shower.

They are not super cold though. I wouldn't worry unless you talking about having a lot of niche backing directly onto the plaster. You cuold of course also just chip the plaster off in that location and have the original plaster depth as an air gap. Or just some direct pir or similar behind the niches.

They are not cold though, just cooler.
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Haha, thank you sir......... I mean to be fair, I can probably afford the space - as the niches themselves are so useful for storage. And if I only board half the wall I get a shelf over the hidden toilet for plants etc.
 
Funnily enough, I did order the Mira digital shower - but now I have rejigged things I am changing the order. As "luck" would have it, when it was delivered the box was destroyed (moisture) so I rejected delivery.

With the new design I might just order a normal shower tbh.

For the wall, I think I will frame it out and then fill it with PIR, or board the wall and then frame ontop of the PIR (? is that a thing), and then overboard with tile board. Where I need to I can always notch out/ I do have some offcuts of 30mm I can get creative with.

A bit like this:
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I doubt I should be worrying about the cold bridge of the framing timber...?
 
Ordered placed ---
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Edit: balls forgot to add my dual fuel towel radiator.

Just need to grab my tileboard, plasterboard and PIR, and framing timber. Any recommendations for adhesive/fixings?
 
mickyflinn said:
Understood.

Ideally you want the bath and basin taps to match for assestics.
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Yeah I am a big fan of the Grohe easyfit taps - which'll match the bath. You can get them quite cheap off of Amazon.

Just having another brain aneurysm about the space for the toilet - a 1700 bath, on a 2.4m wall, only leaves 700 - and I want 40mm for the insulation :(.
 
LuckyBenski said:
Have you gone in the room and taped the layout onto the floor?
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Yeah --- nothing wow'ing me in any direction. I think the added costs of separates is giving me food for thought too (as well as the risk of cocking it up :D).

I might just go for a 1600 length shower bath after all that, with matching glass :cry:
 
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