1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)
- Thread starter dlockers
- Start date
Yeah front and back have the fall. Sides aren't supporting anything so just cut to the smallest height (generally the rear). Then when you clad in OSB you can cut the fall into it/snug to the roof. Roof joists run front to back so sides are just holding it square.
TBC --- I am pretty broke at this stage.
Lol both man. My hands are crippled. Heading to Portugal today so pausing for a bitPhysically or financially?... Or both
A mistake I used to make was letting the pressure get to me. A lot of jobs are rushed by self inflicted deadlines etc. Nothing worse than midjob contemplating how you'll do it better next time
Yeah rear high level ones I think make a lot of sense. I'm going to scribble the rear lean to/garden storage and pad for the AC which are the final considerations before I go for it.
Nails. I bought 2000 odd 90mm nails so it's almost entirely nailed.
DeWalt 1st fixer. A lot of tradesmen and pro-diyers slate them for weight and jamming but I'm over 1500 nails in and never had an issue. The battery lasts ages too.
Haha it was a borrow from my brother in any case.
I wouldn't dream of screwing this. Screws aren't as good for a start, cost way more, and will ruin your hands. Even if you just do a rental whilst you built the walls it'll pay for itself many times over.
10 day!? Work quicker
Holding the screws to get them started. It's all fine but basically a cheese grater by the end lol. A proper paslode isn't too loud, it'll save absolutely ages too.
Yeah I jest a bit. It's taken me what, 9 days to get to the stage I'm at? Joist hangers are a **** take for time too.
The 200mm screws comment was that welshmans comment for incorrectly strapping the roof (imho. They make hurricane straps for a reason). You'd only need 100mm for normal construction.
Id absolutely love skylights but I just can't risk getting the 800quid rubber wrong. Maybe a future thing as it'd definitely be a winner!
Yeah watch oakwood..he did a whole build hand nailed.
Yeah but I've got hands like Lenny where as yours are probably like the bottom of my feet.
Ah yes
correct.Hands are mashed because of CTS. My comment about mashed hands from screws is mainly from spax floorboard screws. If you Google them, they're threaded bottom and top not middle. So I found myself holding middle, but as soon as you screw your basically holding the top thread. Gloves fix it obvs. I'm just being dramatic.
Ain't nobody got time for that!
It's those bladdy spax floorboard screws with serated edges. I'm into edge cases of nice to have tbh I'm not that much of a pansy to not like screws. Just given the choice on a project like this it's a no brainer in terms of time saving.Most decent screws nowadays have a sharpened point so a little pressure will mean they hold where you put them anyway
I thought my accountants hands were soft* but never had issues with screws, but maybe those manicures lockers has keep his baby soft
*actually lots of allotmenting mean they arent that soft really
Just be mindful this chap recommending screws has not built anythin like this, and is preaching guidance from American house builders who talk about 'following code'. None of his examples are UK garden rooms. A strap is still the preferred method as it's impossible to fail, and judging by some of his comments they tend to required a roof joist to align with a stud. Read some of the comments on the videos he shared and you'll see lots of folks saying the inspectors don't care what the screw company says, they want it tied down with a strap (10 nails at 90 degrees vs. a screw perpendicular to the force).
Also he is quoting Americans with pitched roofs where they use single joists (not double like a 3.5m span requires) and line up with the studs to carry the load to the floor. This would give you inefficient spacing on a double joist setup. Also, double top plate is to build a house not a garden room. In a structure like this it'll just create a cold bridge unnecessarily. In fact my professionally made 13m x 3m pitched roof workshop only has a single top plate.
The build packs are worth it if you don't want to waste time planning materials. I essentially sent his kit list to my merchant and it arrived. I didn't think twice about quantities. It also included some extra nuggets on specific dimensions and rod spacing but with hindsight is all pretty easy to work out yourself. If doing it again I'd possibly back myself now, but given I took a week off work to squeeze it in, I didn't want to chance any errors that'd take days to rectify.
When he stripped those nails - that was a bit of bodge. He'd just forgotten his actual nails so was scavenging some. I wouldn't recommend it - like you said, they are a fraction of the thickness and unless you're a dab hand at hitting straight, you've got no chance.
I used a few 100mm screws when framing if the frame was too twisted for my strength to hold it tight. You don't need to screw unless you have the same issue. Screwing and nailing everyone is overkill.
Just be mindful on spacing - you'll need 150 overhang all the way around, plus fascias, plus guttering. So don't go so close to the boundary you end up with stuff overhanging in their garden!
I assume you've seen the few vids where he finishes the wall before lifting it, due to space issues?
The large metal sheets are also a shout. Gets you in the spirit of the non combustible rules too ...As much as I hate plastic I would get something like this to clad the back if your not going to have any access.
White Smooth Shiplap Cladding - Length 5m x Width 125mm
Durable and attractive uPVC boards, interlock horizontally to provide attractive, weather-proof exterior cladding.www.eurocell.co.uk
Almost flush will be a disaster for water.