1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)

The framing part of it im very happy with now, for me the still uncertain part is all the little parts of the roof, fascia, soffit, trims and guttering. Dlockers if you could link to some of the roofing/soffit/guttering parts that you've bought it would be really useful.
I was a bit "uneasy" about this too but its been pretty straight forward. I ordered these bits from plasticshub:
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Then some polytop pins (Wickes stock them). Basically attach soffit, then attach fascia, use the joining bits/corners as required, then buzz the excess of with a multi tool so it fits level with roof. Done.

The rubber roof then comes with bits that cover the rubber once it is folded over the top of the fascia.

Edit: guttering I am not thinking about yet but have my Wickes basket ready.
 
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Just seen your roof postings below...





Does that mean you need to buy both for the roof. Circa 1.3k? Oof.

Maybe I should have clenched harder when I bought the build pack haha some expensive gear but I suppose it's the main thing you want to work as intended.

Did you look at permaroof options also?
Yeah you need both. Caught me by surprise too as I hadn't budgeted anything for fascias, soffits, or cladding lol.

Edit: no I didn't check permaroof, I went straight to Rubber4roofs. I don't think the permaroof one is as "complete" as the R4Rs but that's just an anecdotal statement. I pinged a guy in the trade and he was impressed with what they sent me basically (he uses permaroof).
 
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I started on one roof, now over 4 areas and a wall -39 panels and counting (I'll top out at 48 it seems).
I might owe you a beer or a steak dinner...I need someone to give me some coaching on how to get my 13m workshop covered in them!

Edit: I need to find someone who can endorse the roof is strong enough though!
 
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What kind of roof, flat/pitched?
Type of finish, felt/EPDM/corrugated sheets/tile/slate?
Do you know the span, size and centres of the beams?
It's a pitched cement fibre roof supported by a wood frame at 2ft centers. The initial spam is 12ft but then the next ones are 10ft.

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It's 3m width.
 
Are the roof areas East and West? Some serious potential if they are - possibly 10/11 panels per side in portrait position.
Only issues will be securing them down, it's likely mounted through ( special fixings) and sealed, nut always a potential weak/leak spot.
Don't think a ballast system would be suitable.
North east and south west so just shy of having full evening sun.

I've seen you can get fixings for corrugated style roofs. This cement board is bolted externally with rubber washers that are all nearly perished.

How heavy are the panels? I guess there wouldn't be a rail system at 10ft centers lol.
 
Where was it you ordered fasteners from again? @dlockers Presume that was cheapest place/do you rate them?

Tjanks.

Edit: oh yeah I'm gonna use galvanised rather than bright zinc plated if I can....its the engineer in me..
BAPP. They do BZP or Galv. I went BZP on the basis it'd outlive me easily :). Most live so far under the structure they'll never get much weather in any case.
 
Remind me, does the build pack account for doubled up roof timbers? I've bought one (7*3.5m) but was watching a lot of the YouTube videos and they're only single 5*2s on the roof.
Yeah I think he over did the 5*2 in general, as I have about 6 lengths spare. It doesn't account for the coach bolts though, I ended up getting them from TS separately.

You only need doubles if you exceed 3M IIRC.

Edit: don't forget to crown the timber on the roof
 
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Aye i recall someone saying there's a specific size thats Bob on for coach bolts. You got a toolstation part #?

You also got a recommendation for post hole digger and shovel?

Making a big order list just now :D - starts July.
- These have worked well, much lighter than the wooden Spear and Jackson ones:

- I then used this, but it is a bit wider than a usual grafter shovel. I THINK it is this one, I got it "in store" in an emergency when my other drainage shovel broke.
My brother loaned me a smaller grafter which was quite useful in addition to the above.

- This bar is critical too, as daft as it seems, lol. They do a bigger one; again, check in store.

- You will also want good quality string line and pins, don't try and fudge it with bits of offcut etc. You want to be able to bump the line accidentally without it resetting the entire dimensions :cry:

- Buy a bunch more clamps - the Rolson quick release ones. I think I have 4 and this is just enough, but 5 or 6 would have been useful.

- Get a visqueen big enough to cover your deck if you get caught by weather.

- Don't forget to buy your polytops for the fascias/soffits. Wickes do them but they are expensive.

- Multitool blades - just have a few on hand. You will need to trim the fascia down so nice large flat ones work well.

- Planer or Jigsaw blades - when trimming the OSB to match the roof exactly, you can do it neatly with a planer or butcher it with a jigsaw. I did the latter as I have lost my plane.

- Silicone - you'll need good quality silicone (plumbers gold or something) to fit the doors

- Packers - to fit the doors

- Sheet material handle - I didn't know these existed but apparently they're quite good.

- Twist nails - get 7 or 8 more packs than the build pack guided. His estimate is way off if you nail every hole on the splice plates.

- THIS exact drill. It is perfect for the holes in the floor beams. A spade bit had zero chance.

- Silver tape or another layer of vapour membrane. He used to put RhinoVent on backwards underneath his chipboard which I think is a bit odd/make belief idea. Just silver tape the PIR or fit a vapour control barrier between the PIR and the chipboard. His build pack still says the upside down RhinoVent idea.
 
Nice one... I also need to buy a new hammer/might treat myself if you have a recommendation
I've been using a Stanley fibreglass one for ages; which after using my brothers regular 20oz Stanley made me realise the error of my ways - so I'd say any 20oz that isn't fibreglass handled. I used a Stealmaster I think.

Rink shank nails are a nightmare to remove as well, so you might want to get the breaker bar set if you haven't got one.

I'm not sure if there is a specific hammer for polytops too but that is worth a google.
 
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This kind? Currently I only have a 5quid **** wickes hammer

No the opposite - one that isn't anti vibe lol:

 
Ah cool.. Did you use a saw stand eg below or just circular saw it all? I've got an evolution mitre saw just never had a stand... I figure there's a lot of bits to cut so will buy it if worthwhile.

Ah yes I have that exact one. It was quite useful for cutting down the floor joists more than anything.
 
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