I've lost the keysI believe you need to go inside and show us the dry space to prove that
I've lost the keysI believe you need to go inside and show us the dry space to prove that
Yeah I think there a bunch of folk that have a mental barrier on the PIR. It isn't that bad at all TBH, especially if you use a nice long panel saw.Remind me why it's 50mm into walls and 100mm into roof again? Is it to allow space for electrical back boxes? Surprised people haven't gone for 75mm etc.
For me cutting the 100mm insulation didn't seem all that terrible just with a handsaw.
I'm working on top of myself again - desperate to get the workshop empty so I can make space to run the wiring; which means getting the PIR out of there. The chap I am following runs his wires tight to the OSB in the roof for the lights; I'll probably pre-drill and come beneath as I can't get a drill up there now (another tip @Buffman - notch your roof joists before boarding). Wall wiring will go in front of insulation I think; as I am too late nowI would probably just max it out really!
Have you planned your cable runs? Again I'd be tempted to get those in first and place the insulation over top. Dunno why - to get them deeper in the walls I guess?
You're a babe, thank you. I think I need about 100m tho lol! It is to wire the entire place in.Dunno how local you are to Bedford but I've got a couple of unfinished reels, can probably "lend" one insofar as you need it
I think some people go to town on them. I toe nailed all of mine as I had a bit of extra height available - so could toe nail even the bits on the steal (as it's on a bed of 2x4).Just looking at this pic, remind me are the upside down joist hangers for the roof only required for the part with the steel? Rest can be screwed or nailed?
Yeah should be fine if it's toe nailed. The strap operates in a different force so if you have them, that's my bet. Screws under tension aren't great from what I've read, and the headers are only 2inch thick.When you say toe nail presume you mean nail at 45s from above? I'll see how many I've got I think i bought 20 but will only need about 4 for the steel .
I'm tempted to just put a couple screws in from below, and maybe strap every other beam.
Yeah 5x2. I didnt' do any of that BS, lol. Will just do cladding at an angleI think it's screws under shear is the main issue but yeah I'll make sure its pretty solid.
For your side edges did you use a 5" by 2"?
I realise that I'll have to cut a taper in the cladding to account for this and only just watched this video which indicates can use an 8by 2 and cut it down so you have a flat point. Oh well I don't have time to sort that in the delivery! Shame it's not in the build pack
Day 5 of a garden room build, solo. 1 man, very little tools and a lot of hand nailing
There cannot be a more detailed unedited garden room tutorial out there!Prove me wrong!!Day5, and, well, its hard work, and really boring now!When you're use...youtu.be
Looking good! I have just read the tread, start to finish over the last couple of days when I've had time.
I took watches a lot of the Oakwood garden rooms stuff over lockdown. I was going to build one, but instead converted half of my garage. It's a shame his content stopped. I see he's changed his name, etc. I do wonder what happened there, did the worl dry up or something else?
Hah yeah I always have that idea but have never bothered. I rewired the full 1930s house bar one room and haven't bothered either. I'll have bigger problems if ethernet/2.5T&E goes out of vogueFor your cable runs, I'd be tempted to run the cables in some plastic pipe or similar, just in case you want to pull more through in the future or if you snag/pierce one in the future, it will save you having a nightmare fishing new ones through or removing plasterboard to access.
Tidy job so far, well done. Look forward to more updates!
Will take a look - I am considering doing a retrofit to the workshop which'll follow your build much more closely.Hah, I had the same thought when I did my garage office room. Basically couldn't be arsed and just wanted to get it finished! I had plenty of spares. Might be some useful stuff for your interior fit out in my garage office thread (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/project-garage-office-workshop-thread.18932259/)
Haha I didn't measure a thing - hoping whatever bracket I end up with is quite forgiving as I am definitely not a fan of neck ache lol.R/TVTooHigh
Yeah but I've ran out of brain cells to think about it. I've put a fused spur to an outdoor socket as I think you just power the outdoor unit?Is A/C provision or any additional ventilation holes on the agenda ... if it's becoming a cinema room.
I only had an issue on the horizontal that is attached to the steal. Think I aligned steal with internal wall vs. external wall. Just used regular packers and screws instead of nails. You may be able to see here:Did you use packers or anything to make sure your horizontal battens run level @dlockers?
4mm - I don't have much load going on. I did another thread on the electrics; it isn't final fix yet. I need to get my solar on the roof and some other bits done before a sparky comes in and final fixes it.What size SWA did you pull in? What’s your earthing arrangement?
This isn't for the solar install - this is just for the garden room. No solar there. Just a 32amp ring and 6amp lighting circuit - actual load will be a laptop charger, split A/C and an AP.Fyi 4mm 2 seems small for a run to a garden room particularly if looking to feed solar electric back to main house via it (I'm not a sparky tho!)
Overall if you have one 20 amp ring say and a lighting ring might be OK
Comes SaturdayAnd a big telly?
(Still only an amp maximum though)
Access point.Cool ill soon find out what my sparky recommends. Then I'll probably say upsize it . I'm being a coward and getting someone else to look at it.
Ps what is AP