Its been all over the shop tbh, funny thing is I've spent more money on my PC this year but spent a lot less time on it due to being away with work, which has paid for said PC upgrades, but while I'm not on it its mining so at least its kinda worth it..
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30xx Series Founders Edition
- Thread starter Dirk Diggler
- Start date
I havent gamed much done more benchmarks to stress test monitor temps read power use etc and playing with undervolting but I remember when playing red dead 2 vram was going mid/high 90s now with pads changed 82-84c . mining would instantly hit 110c now its around 84c with the same settings . my case has terrible airflow upgraded pretty much everything but still stuck with the same case 5 year old 570x corsair i have the side panel open with 2 120mm fans blowing into the side of the 3080 waiting for Lian Li Evo 0-11 
doesnt help the room ambient is always around 25c and higher bring on winter
doesnt help the room ambient is always around 25c and higher bring on winter
I am in the same boat, I have changed the pads as well.
I don’t mine, but in RTX games, I now see VRAM temps. in the 80C’s… used to be in the 100C’s.
Given the crappy pads that Nvidia use is like bird **** ona bandage a pad swap to any FE card is going to lower temps, regardless of if you are mining or not, and given the state of some of the stock fitted stuff on reddit, I'd want to do it just to make sure I hadn't got a crap card..
Caporegime
- Joined
- 21 Jun 2006
- Posts
- 38,367
I'm scared of breaking the ribbon cables. The rest seems easy.
The only cable you need to be careful on the 3080FE is the one on the top left of the board as you look at it core down on the bench, its not a simple pull out but there's a different sort of catch on it, I wouldn't say they were overly flimsy cables tbh, just make sure you make sure they're on the right side of the board when you reassemble.
But if it breaks in 3 years...I get a new one. And probably a newer model based on chip shortage 
And I'll sell it shortly after and then it isn't my problem.
I might do it in the future.
Those ribbon cables are a pain, but if you go slow it is typically fairly straight forward.
And I'll sell it shortly after and then it isn't my problem.I might do it in the future.
Those ribbon cables are a pain, but if you go slow it is typically fairly straight forward.
didnt find that one difficult plenty of videos on youtube , you just push the metal catch back and lift up underneath the connector and installing it back you just plug it back in from the top down , its the one ribbon cable at the edge I found difficult my eyes are not what they used to be
Yeah, if you watch videos its fine, I just dived in with one eye shut..
One thing I will say tho, if you do do it, use bluetak to get the screw covers off, loads easier than some of the techniques I've seen..
Associate
- Joined
- 7 Apr 2006
- Posts
- 292
- Location
- USA
You won't break the ribbon cables. Just remember to gently pull them out directly horizontally (not vertically up and down!). While you can use "Engineer PT-17" Tweezers to pull it out, I would just use your finger ends gently.
These cables are the same kind of connector cables that are often in gaming mice, to attach a "daughterboard" to a mainboard, as well as many laptops.
First, flip the connector up to unlocked position. Once it's unlocked, the ribbon cable comes right out! Then all you have to do is make sure when you reapply the PCB, that you pull the cable OVER the PCB **FIRST**. Do this and you have a 0% chance of damaging it.
refer to 5:00+ in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWhqmP5eE_0
My 3080 FE is currently getting up to 102C on the memory in a P600S case with good airflow in games even without raytracing and I'm starting to wonder whether that's normal. I don't remember it getting this hot when I got it in February but it is 24C in my room at the moment. I wonder whether the pads have started to liquefy
.It’s normal for the factory white pads.My 3080 FE is currently getting up to 102C on the memory in a P600S case with good airflow in games even without raytracing and I'm starting to wonder whether that's normal. I don't remember it getting this hot when I got it in February but it is 24C in my room at the moment. I wonder whether the pads have started to liquefy
You have a choice, change or leave it as it is. If you do change it… you will question why the heck did Nvidia go with those crappy white pads. Super soft pads.
Caporegime
- Joined
- 21 Jun 2006
- Posts
- 38,367
My 3080 FE is currently getting up to 102C on the memory in a P600S case with good airflow in games even without raytracing and I'm starting to wonder whether that's normal. I don't remember it getting this hot when I got it in February but it is 24C in my room at the moment. I wonder whether the pads have started to liquefy
The issue gets worse with time not better even on AIB cards the pads they are using aren't good enough.
Or there is contact being created thanks to the GPU flexing with sag especially on the bigger heavier AIB cards.
Having to do mods isn't ideal and they are under warranty.
I think I would rather let it be. Then sell the card in 2-3 years as warranty is about to run out and get the 40 series. If it does fail you can always send back under warranty and likley get a 40 series for free anyway.
Modding makes zero sense. If the ram is getting hot you can always underclock the ram. The ram makes zero difference to fps anyway. It's the core when gaming. A -200 underclock will see less than 1% dip in performance which can be negated by a +50 core overclock. Undervolt the core and you will have better than stock performance and cool ram with the underclock on the ram.
My 3080 FE is currently getting up to 102C on the memory in a P600S case with good airflow in games even without raytracing and I'm starting to wonder whether that's normal. I don't remember it getting this hot when I got it in February but it is 24C in my room at the moment. I wonder whether the pads have started to liquefy
Certainly hotter than mine, but I think I have a decent sample, better than my friend's whose hit 105c in the heatwave.
I am going to leave it be I think unless it gets significantly worse. I would have been much more annoyed if I had paid well over MSRP and I'm very happy with the performance, the card is pretty quiet at 100C memory temp and below too.
The other thing I noticed during the extreme heatwave (temp was over 30C in my room) we had a couple of months ago is that the FE cooler massively heats up components around it such as the chipset on my X570 Aorus Master (the junction temp was getting to 84C on my old case fan profile during that heatwave) and the PCIE slots leading to PCI/Bus Interconnect WHEA corrected errors. I had to use a more aggressive case fan profile to keep things cool and that got rid of the errors (which I'm still using). My old Palit GTX 1080 would cool down the chipset under load.
My case is set up for positive pressure with 3 Noctua intake fans in the front and one in the back and an NH-D15 S cooler with two fans on the CPU. Maybe I need more exhaust but whenever I've added fans in the past it's made no difference
The strange thing is Gamers Nexus found that their FE didn't heat up components which is the opposite to what I found but they were running their case fans at maximum speed if I remember correctly.
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Good to know, thanks.
Yours is similar to mine then or maybe very slightly worse. It will get up to 104C if I play Quake 2 RTX. However, it's 100-102C in other games.
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