A Window To Wales
- Thread starter OJ46
- Start date
Camera angles are a wonderful thing lol
Yeah was leaning that way myself, could always add the red at a later date so long as it's done before the loop is filled
By now I'm sure most of you have noticed how impatient I can get... Green paint is still a tiny bit tacky and the light in here is awful, but I couldn't resist!
Will add some better photo's with decent light once the heatsinks are mounted properly, the green looks soooo much better in a decent light
Yeah was leaning that way myself, could always add the red at a later date so long as it's done before the loop is filled
By now I'm sure most of you have noticed how impatient I can get... Green paint is still a tiny bit tacky and the light in here is awful, but I couldn't resist!
Will add some better photo's with decent light once the heatsinks are mounted properly, the green looks soooo much better in a decent light
Santa (Jeff) came again today and brought me some thermal pads, so time to fix these things down
I wanted to use the ½mm Thermal Grizzly pads on both the M.2 and the southbridge, but unfortunately it was too thin for the motherboard chip, so had to use some 1mm EK rubbish instead.
That made a nice little indent though so at least I know it's touching now! And don't worry, I did clean the chip and wipe the rubbish off the pad before mounting it properly
Both mounted and it's a perfect fit, almost as if ASUS meant for there to be a heatsink on the M.2...
Also had a change of heart on the painting. After thinking about it yesterday I decided that once the white radiator, white fans, white liquid filled reservoir and tubing etc is in then a tiny bit more red might break things up a bit.
Sooooo, out came the metallic red spray can. Think it works quite well with the stickers on the RAM and the flashes on the southbridge
Yeah, think I made the right call in the end...
It's also fair to say that painting can be added onto the list alongside cable sleeving as jobs that I'm exceptionally bad at. Just hoping 'bending PETG' doesn't join em
Hope you like it so far. Apart from playing around with a few ideas there might be a bit of a break now until I can get my hands on a GPU
I wanted to use the ½mm Thermal Grizzly pads on both the M.2 and the southbridge, but unfortunately it was too thin for the motherboard chip, so had to use some 1mm EK rubbish instead.
That made a nice little indent though so at least I know it's touching now! And don't worry, I did clean the chip and wipe the rubbish off the pad before mounting it properly
Both mounted and it's a perfect fit, almost as if ASUS meant for there to be a heatsink on the M.2...
Also had a change of heart on the painting. After thinking about it yesterday I decided that once the white radiator, white fans, white liquid filled reservoir and tubing etc is in then a tiny bit more red might break things up a bit.
Sooooo, out came the metallic red spray can. Think it works quite well with the stickers on the RAM and the flashes on the southbridge
Yeah, think I made the right call in the end...
It's also fair to say that painting can be added onto the list alongside cable sleeving as jobs that I'm exceptionally bad at. Just hoping 'bending PETG' doesn't join em
Hope you like it so far. Apart from playing around with a few ideas there might be a bit of a break now until I can get my hands on a GPU
Haha yes mate, I did remember to remove the sticker first
Hoping with a decent quality pad and a chunky heatsink it shouldn't get too hot even when using it with zero airflow, but guess we'll see in a month or 2 if it makes any real world difference to the temps.
Not sure why but the green paint is really hard to photograph. In darker photo's it looks completely washed out, then in the ones with good light it looks almost luminescent. It's actually a bit darker than it looks in those photo's above so don't worry, it's not going to glow in the dark!
Hoping with a decent quality pad and a chunky heatsink it shouldn't get too hot even when using it with zero airflow, but guess we'll see in a month or 2 if it makes any real world difference to the temps.
Not sure why but the green paint is really hard to photograph. In darker photo's it looks completely washed out, then in the ones with good light it looks almost luminescent. It's actually a bit darker than it looks in those photo's above so don't worry, it's not going to glow in the dark!
As near as I can tell, my endeavours scored me about 10°C off the temp of the SSDs and also they were slower to rise in temp - evened it out a bit. I say as near as I can tell because mine are in RAID0 and that seems to prevent you from reading the internal temp sensor so readings were a sensor taped to the top before and taped to the underside afterwards - rather than try to sandwhich a sensor between heatsink and board.
How did you go about mounting your sink? I was thinking a pad would be the easy way but then it doesn't keep it in place. The only self-adhesive pads I could find were Akasa and more like double-sided tape so not thick enough to allow for the differences in height of the chips. Ended up using a whetstone to take one end of the sink down so it was about the right height and then used the tape. Did you find a less tiring way of doing it?
How did you go about mounting your sink? I was thinking a pad would be the easy way but then it doesn't keep it in place. The only self-adhesive pads I could find were Akasa and more like double-sided tape so not thick enough to allow for the differences in height of the chips. Ended up using a whetstone to take one end of the sink down so it was about the right height and then used the tape. Did you find a less tiring way of doing it?
That's good news, would be happy with even a couple of degrees considering how cheap and easy it is to do
I just used a normal thermal pad, did the same on the last build and it hasn't fallen off even with all the loop refills & case shaking its had. If I remember correctly it only really held it properly after it had been used enough to get it warm, so might try a hairdryer on this one if it doesn't hold well
Edit: Just checked and the Thermal Grizzly pad seems to hold it pretty well, can't see it moving.
I just used a normal thermal pad, did the same on the last build and it hasn't fallen off even with all the loop refills & case shaking its had. If I remember correctly it only really held it properly after it had been used enough to get it warm, so might try a hairdryer on this one if it doesn't hold well
Edit: Just checked and the Thermal Grizzly pad seems to hold it pretty well, can't see it moving.
Quickly built it up so I could get some measurements and also get more of an idea of how I was going to position things. Struck a problem...
...The bolts that came with the radiator aren't long enough. Anyone want to save the day and tell me what size / thread I need for an XSPC rad and / or where I can get some longer ones? Cheers guys!
Not got any cable combs here yet but cables are done
Also really liking the Parvum fans, black on the inside edge looks gooood. Cheers guys!
Reminder to self: Remove stickers from white fans! Going to look a beast with the fans & dragon lit up
Zoomy zoom.
Missus found a cracking use for the bottom of the case...
Quick size comparison with the old ATX case
Fanta added for scale
...The bolts that came with the radiator aren't long enough. Anyone want to save the day and tell me what size / thread I need for an XSPC rad and / or where I can get some longer ones? Cheers guys!
Not got any cable combs here yet but cables are done
Also really liking the Parvum fans, black on the inside edge looks gooood. Cheers guys!
Reminder to self: Remove stickers from white fans! Going to look a beast with the fans & dragon lit up
Zoomy zoom.
Missus found a cracking use for the bottom of the case...
Quick size comparison with the old ATX case
Fanta added for scale
Missing a bunch of thread reply notifications for some reason.
Motherboard screws: yep, what the RevBillyG said. Usually they're something like M3 I believe - I can check if you need. The same as floppy drive screws anyway.
XSPC rads seem (from what I can Google) to use UNC 6-32 thread. Same as hard disk screws so you can confirm that way. Other rads I've seen use M3 or M4 (I forget which but you can measure them and they'll be slightly smaller than 3mm or 4mm).
Motherboard screws: yep, what the RevBillyG said. Usually they're something like M3 I believe - I can check if you need. The same as floppy drive screws anyway.
XSPC rads seem (from what I can Google) to use UNC 6-32 thread. Same as hard disk screws so you can confirm that way. Other rads I've seen use M3 or M4 (I forget which but you can measure them and they'll be slightly smaller than 3mm or 4mm).
Nice try i do no there are two size of cansgreat build any way giving me idears for mine
Haha yeah, didn't help I had the second can the wrong way around... D'OH!
I've kind of gone out of my way to do things differently on this build, especially when it comes to the loops, so just hope it works now. If I come up with anything worth stealing then I'd be honoured!
Parvum give you loooooads of extra screws mate so it isn't a problem as in I haven't got any, was just a bit unsure about the motherboard as the box never had a seal on it. After stress testing the CPU and RAM it threw up no issues but if things were missing from the box then I'd know it was a dodgy board that had been returned... Seems all good though just need a GPU to test now!
Brilliant, will see if I can get some 5mm longer. Going to be quite a problem if I have 3 radiators I can't mount
Same boat with my rads mate, if you get some longer you have to be really careful you don't screw them in and through the rad channels - even though they probably have protection covers. It might look pretty good if you do what I did with the anodised washers to fit your theme but also give you a buffer of a few mm - chief problem is you'll find your screws are not long enough, nor are the 30mm and that leaves 35mm which is too long.
Also M4 Nylon washers are about £4 for 250 on the bay, worth adding underneath or just ordering as an option if you need 1mm padding. All i all i'm now using 35mm with the nylon and fancy washer, seems to be about perfect but you might need more given the thickness of your acrylic case.
Also M4 Nylon washers are about £4 for 250 on the bay, worth adding underneath or just ordering as an option if you need 1mm padding. All i all i'm now using 35mm with the nylon and fancy washer, seems to be about perfect but you might need more given the thickness of your acrylic case.
The main problem I have is for the front rad the screws go through the frosted panel (countersunk obviously), then the green / white panels cover the heads, so they need to be pretty much bang on. The screws that came with the rad are 30mm and aren't long enough so was hoping to get some 35mm replacements, but only ones I can find are Phobya and they're ridiculous money for a pack of 4 :/
Was thinking if I did manage to find some cheaper and they were a mm or 2 longer than needed I could add a gasket between the fans and the rad. Would solve the length issues without causing problems with the heads sticking out too far. Hell, it might even give another zero point something degree cooling performance
Liking the idea of the anodised washers for the roof radiator though, might have to 'borrow' that idea from you mate
Was thinking if I did manage to find some cheaper and they were a mm or 2 longer than needed I could add a gasket between the fans and the rad. Would solve the length issues without causing problems with the heads sticking out too far. Hell, it might even give another zero point something degree cooling performance
Liking the idea of the anodised washers for the roof radiator though, might have to 'borrow' that idea from you mate
You could always take a hacksaw to them if they're too long. Worst case, you might need a UNC 6/32 die to clean up the damaged end of the thread
£4: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262484931052
Checked and apparently "Unified Coarse (UNC), commonly referred to as National Coarse (NC) in retailing"
£4: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262484931052
Checked and apparently "Unified Coarse (UNC), commonly referred to as National Coarse (NC) in retailing"
Think there's a load of dies in the garage somewhere mate so could strike lucky on that one, although knowing how it usually goes that'll probably be the one that's missing!
Will try a few local places tomorrow to see if I can get some 35mm's for a decent price. Found some on the Rainforest site and they want £7.53 for a pack of 4... Screw that!*
*Awful pun intended
Will try a few local places tomorrow to see if I can get some 35mm's for a decent price. Found some on the Rainforest site and they want £7.53 for a pack of 4... Screw that!*
*Awful pun intended