A Window To Wales

Yeah that tool looks interesting... considering my old man is massively in to diving might see if he can sort me out with a gauge! Usually I just fill and kitchen roll the crap out of it though...

And I've made better copper bends mate but reality is you cannot bend pipe of this size in tight enough angles. Simply isn't a tool for it and with the best will in the world bending by hand is virtually impossible and that's coming from someone that spends most days of the week throwing weights about in the gym. Solution will be posted over in my thread tomorrow though, or Thursday.

@OJ I feel your pain with the additional work, now planning a desk build with a platform for this beast :D
 
Diving gauge would be much better quality - you don't want it telling you that you've got 20% of a tank left when it's empty! Problem is that for a tank (specially a steel) you'll be looking at a range going up to about 350 bar. Dr Drop goes up to 0.6 bar. You won't see much difference if you have a leak.
 
Yeah the gauge certainly isn't the best quality, although it's just about good enough so long as it isn't Dr Dropped ;)

Not had any issues with mine losing pressure yet but have only used it a couple of times, so will have to see if any slight leaks develop. Will certainly be testing everything as I go this time though, don't want to have to drain 4 radiators worth of liquid & pull the case apart to replace a £5 component!

Ooh, I like following desk builds so hope it's going to be logged on here :D
 
Testing done, so time to remove that god awful temporary cooler. Very quick update of not a lot but I'm hoping to get a few jobs done this weekend, so HOPEFULLY have a bigger update in next few days...

Thermal paste removed, surface nicely cleaned up...

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Ooooh shiny! :cool:

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Best thing about this cooler? You can mount the actual block upside down...

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...But keep the bracket / cover the correct way up :)

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Just need to remember I have the block upside down when plumbing it in!

Worst thing about the cooler? Those awful black nuts :mad:

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The black nuts annoyed me so much I gave the block a pair of black eyes :D

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Why could they not include red nuts with a red cooler? Oh well, guess the tins of paint will be coming out again!

One thing I can't decide though: With white coolant going into the CPU block, would the nuts look better red or white, or should they just be left black? My brain immediately defaulted to red, but the more I look at it the more undecided I'm getting... Thoughts?
 
You need a girl for colour advice....not sure there's many of those on here! ;)
Logically, if you're going for the flag, there's not really any white mixed in with the red - it's fairly zonal (apparently that IS a word...who'd have thought!) so I'd say red....but what do I know?!

Helpful that you can flip the inlet round though.
 
Aye, think you could be right mate, it would make more sense being red.

Trouble is if you ask a woman they usually A: Suggest a colour you hadn't even though of, making it even more difficult to decide and B: Change their minds even more often than we do!

It's such a simple idea it makes you wonder why others hadn't thought of it, although I do wish they hadn't put the arrow on the bracket as it's both not needed and now wrong... :p
 
Depends what the arrow is 'made' of and the red metal too. If it's a paint and the red metal isn't paint or clear/coat, it might be possible to find something that'll dissolve the paint without taking off the red/clear. I managed to get the Alphacool white painted logo off a fitting (it was the only one) with methanol without damaging the shiny black paint below it. Definitely one to try on a bit that doesn't show first! Also, not sure where you'd get pure methanol as mine was from a chemist friend quite some years back. Acetone might be too harsh but the local chemist should sell it and you could try it on the underside.
 
Not sure the benefits would outweigh the hassle on that one tbh mate, it's so small it hardly shows anyway. Just found it odd they put the arrow on it in the first place when it's already on the actual block, especially as the design means you can easily switch the inlet / outlet over. Very strange decision.
 
OJ46 said:
Not sure the benefits would outweigh the hassle on that one tbh mate, it's so small it hardly shows anyway. Just found it odd they put the arrow on it in the first place when it's already on the actual block, especially as the design means you can easily switch the inlet / outlet over. Very strange decision.
Click to expand...

Did you see mine? Take the faceplate off, remove the clear LED brackets (they just push out) then soak in some thinners and the paint literally peels off most of it. I had the same feeling on the ^ and branding, under the paints plain aluminium so I suspect the same treatment on the screws would work along with a wire brush.

Cenedd said:
Helpful that you can flip the inlet round though.
Click to expand...

Yes it is because I've just realised I have no idea which way mine is so i'll just flip it to the left as inlet as I've already tubed it in :)
 
I know I'm probably in a minority of 1 but I actually quite like the branding, just found the arrow for the inlet a bit pointless / irritating so probably not worth the extra hassle for me tbh mate. Definitely suits your build a lot more with the branding removed, but mine isn't quite as clean as yours :D

Will have to do the nuts though, more I look at them the more I hate it... That's tomorrow morning sorted!

You know what would have helped you remember mate? Some sort of arrow / marking on the inlet... ;)
 
Haha that's true! I think the original actually had the word in on it also but they removed that due to feedback. It should be etched in to the aluminium in my opinion so when it's sprayed it's subtle not stand out.
 
Now etching would look far better, maybe we should offer them a bit more feedback!

Always thought if they really must have an arrow it would look better putting an arrow on both ports, just looks a bit odd to me only having it on the one side.

Maybe Parvum should get into the cooling business, they've already got the perfect logo for it :p
 
That's true, could knock up some decent reservoirs / floors with channels etc that were suitable for mass market and make a killing :)

Some good news, I've just stumbled across a nice piece of rocking horse ****: An Aquaero 6 LT that's actually in stock! Ordered one plus the heatsink to go with it :D
 
Sorry for the lack of updates, but Cardiff beat Bristol City today, so I may have got a tiny bit drunk when I should have been sorting out the top loop of AW2W... Hopefully I'll be sober enough tomorrow to smash through some of the more awkward jobs :)
 
So long as I only drink when Cardiff win at either football or rugby it will probably be a very sober 2017 mate, unless of course Wales surprise everyone and aren't completely useless in the 6 Nations :D

Unfortunately I've now had windows delivered that need painting, so between my proper job and painting a load of windows it looks like things will be going slow again... I swear this build is jinxed, just can't get a break long enough to actually make a proper start at it :(
 
Was hoping to get the top loop sorted today, but as per usual other things got in the way so it's still not done :mad:

On a slightly more positive note I did find just about enough time to get the front dragon done. Biggest issue? There's a border around the panel that doesn't light up, and it's damn near exactly the same size as the gap between the bottom of the dragon and the top of the hexagons... Getting it centred was fun!

As you can see the new bolts also arrived so all the radiators are mounted ready to make a start :)

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Not brilliant photo's as they're off my phone, but very happy with how it turned out. Also seems the driver provided with this panel is better quality as it's completely silent :D

Can't wait to see what it looks like with the fans lit up now! Also ordered some switches so I can turn the dragon, the floor and the LEDs on & off independently.
 
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