** Acme [Akagi] bought a pink estate car - E30 325i project log! **
- Thread starter Akagi
- Start date
I don't want to think about it until it is in front of me, thankyou.
Hoping its middle-ish 3 figures.
Soldato
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- 29 Jul 2013
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- 8,605
So it'll be £800 then?I don't want to think about it until it is in front of me, thankyou.
Hoping its middle-ish 3 figures.
So it'll be £800 then?
I will smack you.
But I guess if it is then it is *shrug*
I don't think it would be though.
Soldato
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- 21 Oct 2003
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- Back with a Vengeance.
I'm pretty sure you don't need to drop the subframe to put the sump gasket right. I hope you're using loctite and not just putting another gasket back in as you'll be doing the job again in a few years time.
Dropping the subframe is the easiest way to do it in a shop, but there are alternative fiddly methods involving undoing the oil pump bolts through a tiny gap and having it fall into the sump pan and then wiggling it out of a tight gap which you can do if you so choose!
I did request that they use Loctite or something and not a cork gasket.
But yeah it really is that fiddly to do the sump gasket... I was surprised too... I was expecting to just drain the oil, undo the bolts around the sump, pop it off, clean it up, and bolt it back on with a new gasket... Nope!
I did request that they use Loctite or something and not a cork gasket.
But yeah it really is that fiddly to do the sump gasket... I was surprised too... I was expecting to just drain the oil, undo the bolts around the sump, pop it off, clean it up, and bolt it back on with a new gasket... Nope!
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Yeah yeah, I should have done this stuff myself. But 'ehh...
There will be pics upon its return. And I have some stuff I need to do to it myself once it is back, never fear!
Bonnet to fit, valance to paint, foglights to fit and fix, speakers to fit and wire up, head unit, surface rust on panels to whizz back then pickle, prime, and paint, door cards, headliner to strip and re-trim, sunroof seal, door seals, rear aerial to remove, various interior trim things to fiddle with and fix, the paintwork to buff, one outer rear arch to attempt to sand and rattle can to improve on the lacquer peel, etc.
The only things I plan to get other people to do are the rot repairs, and making my new exhaust. I only planned to get the garage to do the sump gasket, but I decided to just get a load of stuff out of the way by getting them to do it at the same time.
There will be pics upon its return. And I have some stuff I need to do to it myself once it is back, never fear!
Bonnet to fit, valance to paint, foglights to fit and fix, speakers to fit and wire up, head unit, surface rust on panels to whizz back then pickle, prime, and paint, door cards, headliner to strip and re-trim, sunroof seal, door seals, rear aerial to remove, various interior trim things to fiddle with and fix, the paintwork to buff, one outer rear arch to attempt to sand and rattle can to improve on the lacquer peel, etc.
The only things I plan to get other people to do are the rot repairs, and making my new exhaust. I only planned to get the garage to do the sump gasket, but I decided to just get a load of stuff out of the way by getting them to do it at the same time.
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It's an inline mounted engine, by design it's pretty likely there will be something significant underneath it blocking access to the sump.... pretty different to most transverse FWD set ups.Dropping the subframe is the easiest way to do it in a shop, but there are alternative fiddly methods involving undoing the oil pump bolts through a tiny gap and having it fall into the sump pan and then wiggling it out of a tight gap which you can do if you so choose!
I did request that they use Loctite or something and not a cork gasket.
But yeah it really is that fiddly to do the sump gasket... I was surprised too... I was expecting to just drain the oil, undo the bolts around the sump, pop it off, clean it up, and bolt it back on with a new gasket... Nope!
So I don't even have the car back yet, but I just spent £200 on a complete OEM optional OBC kit. Bought from a New York bus driver!
Its the fully fledged 13 button version with the light bar. Does all kinds of stuff! Coded immobiliser (like a pin code to start the car, how 80's cool is that?!?! it also sets an alarm off if you enter the wrong code three times!!), MPG average, speed average, range, remaining fuel in litres, programmable maximum speed warning, time and date, exterior temperature, and even a stopwatch! It also sounds a chime when the exterior temperature is below 3 degrees C, sounds another once it goes above 6 degrees, and you can control it from the indicator stalk as well.
I'm really excited about this bit.
Its the fully fledged 13 button version with the light bar. Does all kinds of stuff! Coded immobiliser (like a pin code to start the car, how 80's cool is that?!?! it also sets an alarm off if you enter the wrong code three times!!), MPG average, speed average, range, remaining fuel in litres, programmable maximum speed warning, time and date, exterior temperature, and even a stopwatch! It also sounds a chime when the exterior temperature is below 3 degrees C, sounds another once it goes above 6 degrees, and you can control it from the indicator stalk as well.
I'm really excited about this bit.
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