** Acme [Akagi] bought a pink estate car - E30 325i project log! **

Did a quick edit of what it will look like ('stance wise') when it has the new wheels, tyres, and suspension. :)

muQnpVy.jpg

BBS Mahle 15x7 ET13 (oe is 15x7 ET24)
205 50 15 tyres (oe is 205 55 15)
AP Racing suspension kit w' Meyle top mounts (Lowered 40MM front, 30MM rear)
IS front splitter

I'm liking it a lot. Can't wait til it looks like this. :)
 
Wow that's quite something. I thought agreed values were generally for highly modified cars or special models in concourse condition etc!

I think you can get agreed value on most classic policies. There are some hoops to jump through though, like taking pictures of where the car is kept overnight (which has to be a garage, or in rare exceptions, a secure driveway), and you need a report and valuation from a specialist, provided on headed paper and signed.

I'm not trying to take the pee with the valuation, I just want to be covered for the amount of money I have put into the car, plus a little extra to dampen the emotional blow... :p
 
Would it really sell in parts for £7k? Or is that not the logic behind the agree value?

How is the agreed value nearly triple the market value? Or did you mean 2.5k book value?

No I doubt it would break for 7K, perhaps 5K. If I were to put it up for sale as it stands now, I would expect to get about 2.5K for it. I have put around 4.5K into it including the original 1K purchase price.

The agreed value is just a figure that I plucked out of thin air and approached the insurer with, and they said they were happy with that if I got a signed valuation form. Happy days. Friends car which is another E30 325i Touring manual, admittedly already re-sprayed, and on 40K less miles, has an agreed value of 10K on it. It would probably sell for 6K if he put it up for sale.
 
Right, next weekend its going in for a visual inspection to quote for bodywork and re-spray in the original colour, exterior with all trims and windscreen removed, door shuts, and also some bodywork on the rear arch where my filling isnt perfect, along the sill, and on the rear valance and scuttle.

Verbal estimate based on pictures is £1000 because I got referred to them by one of their good friends, but I've put £2000 aside for it. Guy called Dave at a no-name backstreet garage in London... :p :p

Good enough for me though - Pics of my mates car they did, and it has no paintwork issues 2 years on - https://imgur.com/a/1li1zaR

Oh and I forgot to mention, I replaced the windscreen due to getting grinder dust on the old one which wouldn't come off. Took 20 minutes to do from start to finish. Now has a genuine BMW blue tint windscreen, original 1991 item. Generously gifted to me by the founder of the E30 club. :)
 
I saw you at Santa Pod this weekend. You were on the stand opposite. Nice skull and crossbones flag! I was going to come and say hello but it would probably have been a bit weird.

Haha nice, which car was yours? Could have said hi, I wouldn't have found it weird... But maybe that says a lot about me. :p
 
In talks re: turbo build. K-Tec ECU, Holset HX35, stainless tig welded turbo manifold and pipework, FMIC, uprated injectors, aftermarket coil packs, upgraded head bolts and gasket, upgraded engine mounts, stage 3 ceramic sprung clutch.

400HP E30 sleeper on track for early to mid next year... Respray and bodywork this year. Exciting times... :D
 
Don't turbo that engine, get an S54 in there.

Also, 136bhp to 400bhp with a turbo? That's going to drive like poop on track, surely?

No I don't want to swap the engine, the M20 has to stay. And its 170HP. These engines love boost. It won't be used on track aside from strip racing and I'll have high and low boost settings. Daily mode of about 300bhp I expect. :p
 
Hah! Presume you're going to do a full Stage 0 on the engine before bolting that lot on right? Especially if you're going to the trouble of having head off.

Not sure what a "stage 0" is? But it will have new plugs, leads, full service, and the cooling system will be replaced before then as well which will consist of radiator, hoses, stat, water pump, and it would make sense to do the timing belt as well even though it is quite new.
 
Its been the plan for a while. I figured out that turboing it is cheaper than making it a 2.7/2.8 with decent headers etc... That and a few months of M20 turbo YouTube videos and people offering assistance to get it turbo'd made me think stuff it.

I also changed tack on the respray plans which is saving me a shed load of money compared to what I originally budgeted for it...

I had budgeted 2.5K for welding repairs and got it done for 1K, albeit not to the same standard but it will do. And I had budgeted 3K for a colour change respray but have opted for a 1K same colour blowover to tidy it up instead.

It's not going to be concourse or a high value example so I thought sod it.
 
Acme, all good on well on the power front. What if your car starts falling to bits at that power though?

Don't see why it would. Its rock solid now. Has various new bushes, the others are all fine and look to have been replaced already, most of the gaskets have been done, gearbox seals have been done, the shocks, springs, top mounts, drop links, and engine mounts will all be changed prior to this as well, brake lines have been done, and disks and pads will be upgraded when they get changed in the near future, it will have a new radiator, coolant pipes, water pump, stat and belts.

Only current sticking points are the ABS which I obviously want to be working prior to slapping double the power through it, and the rear subframe bushes, one of which has a little bit of play and both of which are very worn.

Maybe if you fully rebuild it prior to whacking 20lbs of boost on it but I'm thinking on an older, high mileage engine you're going to experience issues.

Remember, something WILL go wrong when you add a turbo to a car that didn't originally have one, it always does.

Plenty of people have done just that and had no issues. Things may well go wrong, but I'm not expecting anything drastic to go wrong. I probably won't even bother to change the head gasket... Just swap the head bolts and torque them down one at a time. Leave it undisturbed. Plenty of people have done that with zero issues as well. Shock horror!
 
Last edited:
Quoting this.

Please do... :D

I like the way people say 400BHP on stock block. After around 5 grand on fueling, ignition, ecu, custom manifolds, turbo and all the ancillaries that goes with that! LOL

Its not usually said to indicate cost saving, just the strength of the engine as a base for a turbo build. I always thought anyway?

In this case it won't be anywhere near 5 grand though. If I fit things myself it will be about 2 grand. If I don't, then 3.
 
Last edited:
Please do not be so naive. You are looking at least £700 for manifold and downpipe that will not crack after 5 minutes, £400 on fueling, £300 on second hand turbo, £400 on turbo ancillaries, £1500 on an ECU and mapping. That's three and half grand and that's on the cheap. Not including all the little bits you always end up needing like gaskets etc and after all that you still have a standard chassis with 400BHP going through it on an engine of unknown quantity.

You've overestimating that a bit. I'm not spending £700 on a turbo manifold, rather £200 on a Direnza one which will then be double tig welded. Downpipe and intercooler pipes will be custom tig welded or universal with joiners. ECU is £400, fuelling and ignition are cheap as chips, can either use the stock rotor and dizzy, or use junkyard coil packs connected to the ECU, fuelling, need some injectors which will probably be second hand and re-furbished, say £100. Stock fuel pump (mine is new) is fine for the power I'm aiming for, if it presents an issue, an upgraded one is £130 ish. Second hand turbo about £300. Clutch about £250. So far we're up to what, £1400? Head bolts, £200, intercooler, £150, which is £1750. Still a long way from the £2500. Then what do I need. BOV, oil cooler sandwich plate, pipes and bits and bobs for the oil tap, gaskets, etc.

I've even had someone offer to buy all that and do all the work for me for £3000 total.

You can even buy a tried and tested 350BHP kit for £1800 which includes everything you need aside from ECU... http://kamotorsperformance.com/budget-brawler-v2-turbo-kit-t3-internal-wastegate-low-hp/

They really are cheap to extract good power from. Cheaper even than an MX5. If you went for super basic management and all second hand parts bin parts I recon you could get 400HP out of one for £1000. :p

And the engine isn't an unknown quantity at all. Sure I haven't had the head off and looked at the bores, but thats about all I haven't done.

Just buy a 335i if you want a turbo BMW. You can probably buy a tatty shed for 5k now.

You don't understand cars you petrolhead poser. :eek:

A 335i is in no way shape or form as interesting, special, exciting, as a turbo'd M20 E30.

Although I would love one as a daily driver. Auto with cream sport leather, iDrive, and wood. Mmmm.

I was going to say a 5k 335i would implode within a couple of months, but on reflection it's probably a sensible option compared to converting the E30 :p

I still want to see him do it though!

If I wanted a sensible option I wouldn't have bought an E30 in the first place. It baffles me that certain people don't understand that. :p You can't always be sensible.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom