Advice for DIY install of bathroom and waterproofing walls - can I tile a dot and dabbed wall?

No need. Screwing it down stops the decoupling too
Aye seems to be ok to do it that way.

As Ive got no washers, a bag of tile adhesive and more importantly loads of pipes in the floor I think I'll just tile adhesive it down. Online seems to suggest:

14. How do I fix Marmox to wooden floors?
If the floor is sound and level, Marmox boards can be mechanically fixed using screws With large heads, or washers under the head, to enable the screws to ‘bite down’ into the Marmox board. If the flooring is uneven, the floor should be levelled using plywood first, before fixing the Marmox to the floor.


15. What adhesive should I use to fix Marmox?
It is recommended that a flexible cementitious floor tile adhesive be used. Solvent-based adhesives must NOT be used as these could cause damage to the Marmox boards.
 
Interesting reading so far, lots going on! Going to look ace when it's finished. Weirdly echoes lots of the work I'm doing in my bathroom. Started end of August and still going, just takes forever!
 
How does it decouple if it’s fixed from the top side.

I did kitchen on concrete with just adhesive and no issues
I believe the primary reason for a decoupling membrane is to take up any long term/short term deviation in the substrate material (e.g. Chipboard expanding /contracting seasonally)
 
Why so long?
New house so various other jobs needed doing too (e.g replacing my entire porch roof, sofits,fascias and guttering), also separated from my partner of nearly 8 years, have a young child together so most weekends I'm with him, plus new girlfriend so free weekends very much gone! Also never done DIY before so had to learn demolition, plumbing, electrics, stud walling, plastering, tiling/grouting from scratch. I've done every single job myself. It's been a busy 7 months!

Edit: shower plumbed in today. First shower went without a hitch, it was glorious!! Now to get the bath, toilet and sink installed! (I have a downstairs bathroom too so I'm not popping in a bucket!)
 
New house so various other jobs needed doing too (e.g replacing my entire porch roof, sofits,fascias and guttering), also )...


Hah mines not going quick but I'm also renovating the rest of my house whilst doing this. I've put myself on a "go slow" for this one whilst I wait for tilers availability.

Taped up the tray and put some sealant in the holes, just need to finish taping the rest of the board lines and fit the bath.

I think i might put a few more spankers in a couple boards that are dot and dabbed as there's a bit of flex in the board.


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I think i might put a few more spankers in a couple boards that are dot and dabbed as there's a bit of flex in the board.

I found exactly the same, i.e. dot and dab method left too much flex in the board.

Not sure if I applied the adhesive too thickly but I ended up putting dozens more screws into the boards as I was worried about board flex and tiles cracking.
 
I found exactly the same, i.e. dot and dab method left too much flex in the board.

Not sure if I applied the adhesive too thickly but I ended up putting dozens more screws into the boards as I was worried about board flex and tiles cracking.
Glad I'm not. The only one! Probably part my fault for buying 10mm boards

The dabs need to be behind the spankers though

Aye but they say use 5 spankers per board but theres flex between the spankers. I'll just put a few more in. Should be OK for a tiler to tile over.
 
The spankers won’t do anything if there’s no dab behind. And yeh 10mm for wall is a bit thin and you don’t get the insulation benefit.

I found the plastic spankers needed to be hammered in flush to avoid issues with stopping tiles lying flat. As said once adhesive and tiles on (especially if large format) I doubt you will have an issue but I’m sure I used more spankers per board
 
More tape in! Does anything need to be put on top of tape or can it be adhesive straight on top of this? I believe it can be straight on top but saw a YouTube video of them painting a "tanking" compound on top but I presume that's due to it being plasterboard

Also is there any value to tape behind the mixer bar pipework? I've seen it before and could neaten it up but doesn't seem to be of value?


NiHlVcF.jpeg
 
I am no expert with tiling but it looks like you will either need a LOT of adhesive to fill out to those spankers or skim over the boards to get somewhere near flush with to tops of them
or is it an optical illusion?:confused:
 
I used a healthy dose of flexible sealant around the shower pipes, just to be sure to be sure.

Don't know if it's the light, but some of those spankers look like they're sticking out quite a bit. I'd have thought they'd be better flush.
 
Don't know if it's the light, but some of those spankers look like they're sticking out quite a bit. I'd have thought they'd be better flush.


I think it's the light casting a shadow on them. They're banged in as far as they will go. To be honest yes it's going to need a decent sized trowel to get over them :cry:
 
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