Am I wrong to want an Impreza?

Cheers mate :)

Any advice on what to clean it with ? Isnt this the sensor that go's inbetween the airbox ?
 
Cheers mate :)

Any advice on what to clean it with ? Isnt this the sensor that go's inbetween the airbox ?

Yep, wires go to it, I think WD40 does the trick - take some advice on what's best before squirting something scary into it.
 
Can i drive the car like this for a few days till i can get it sorted or is that a no no ?
 
If the armchair mechanic is correct of course.. ;)

Drive it steady until it can be looked at properly. You wont kill it doing that.
 
is it sat at 1500 or bouncing up and down?

if its up and down - maf or outside chance of O2 sensor

if its sat at 1500 then its your idle control valve

all easy fixes but for the love of god dont spray wd40 on the maf :p
 
Its sat there at a steady 1500 rpm

I will have to ring round tomorrow to find out the cost of a new idle control valve and i shall also grab some carb cleaner for the maf

Cheers
 
Along with MAF sensor and o2 sensor, also check for air leaks and split hoses.
Plenty of things it "could be"
and forever wishing forum posters would take it to someone who can actually LOOK AT the car instead of having people guessing and filling your head with ideas.

New age MAF sensors are a LOT more robust than the old classic ones were ( as aloing as you haven't fitted some god awful induction kit / cone filter.
 
Hi Mate

So your saying its best being looked at by a garage ? The airbox is standard but it does have a dump valve / diffrent exhaust
 
Along with MAF sensor and o2 sensor, also check for air leaks and split hoses.
Plenty of things it "could be"
and forever wishing forum posters would take it to someone who can actually LOOK AT the car instead of having people guessing and filling your head with ideas.

New age MAF sensors are a LOT more robust than the old classic ones were ( as aloing as you haven't fitted some god awful induction kit / cone filter.

in fairness the advice I gave is easy to fix yourself rather than waste money on a garage, having built three scoobs from the ground up including two entirely "built" engines I'd like to consider myself vaguely aux fait with the ej20/25 engines and assocaited ancillieries

but by all means knock yourself out and take it to a garage
 
in fairness the advice I gave is easy to fix yourself rather than waste money on a garage, having built three scoobs from the ground up including two entirely "built" engines I'd like to consider myself vaguely aux fait with the ej20/25 engines and assocaited ancillieries

but by all means knock yourself out and take it to a garage

It's just working IN a garage ON scoobies ALL day EVERY day I see this far too often.
Clueless car owner asks for advice on a forum and gets a million and one sure fixes" and ands up spending money and or time and effort on blindly trying to fix things on the advice of said other members without actually knowing why or what they are looking for.
99% of the time a decent garage will spot the fault at minimal cost and save the owner a lot of hair pulling and "new parts"
I'm not saying it isn't the maf sensor, it could well be that but blindly taking it off cleaning it is a waste of time without knowing that is the fault first.


Apologies to calling the OP clueless. :D
 
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It's just working IN a garage ON scoobies ALL day EVERY day I see this far too often.
Clueless car owner asks for advice on a forum and gets a million and one sure fixes" and ands up spending money and or time and effort on blindly trying to fix things on the advice of said other members without actually knowing why or what they are looking for.
99% of the time a decent garage will spot the fault at minimal cost and save the owner a lot of hair pulling and "new parts"

furry muff, although I'd dread to think how much I would have had to spend if I'd paid garages to build and repair my cars in the past, horses for courses, not everyone is content to just pay other people to fix things. Same goes for computer problems, how many people here would take their PC's to a high street computer shop to fix a virus issue or knackered case fan?
 
I'm not knocking getting stuck in, that's how I started, I didn't do some high brow motorsport degree to get where I am and still know nothing. :D
What I am advocating though is that you need a basic understanding of what's going on with your own motor before ripping things apart on the whim of someone on the net trying to be a good Samaritan. It's like the blind leading the blind otherwise.
 
In what way??
Well it was demo'd by the press, ready for launch...

Then one of the magazine photographers stuck it in the ditch backwards claiming he was only doing 30 mph round a bend despite me driving round the same bend without issue at around 50 with just a little tyre squeal.
Also noted were a few choice black lines on the bend entrance as if it was being drifted for "teh money shot"...
All my opinion of what happened of course, nothing concrete.
Since then it's been sat in the workshop looking rather sorry for itself having had 2 years worth of modification and testing gone to waste.
 
I thought the standard test for the MAF sensor was to let the car idle, then unplug the MAF sensor, if the car stalls the MAF was working, if it carries on running, it's on it's way out?

That check takes about 30 seconds.
 
is it sat at 1500 or bouncing up and down?

if its up and down - maf or outside chance of O2 sensor

if its sat at 1500 then its your idle control valve

all easy fixes but for the love of god dont spray wd40 on the maf :p

Took it out for a drive this morning to have a better look at the problem, found that when driving without any turbo it was fine and it idled between 500 and 1000 rpm but as soon as i started to drive it harder and use the turbo then the problems started. If you drive it hard up to a junction for example, stop and then put it into neutral the revs will rise up and down as will gill said (between 1000 and 2000 rpm)

I took it to GRD Developments in Chobham and they checked for any air leaks and also changed the maf for me, i took it down the road and it had exactly the same issue. After going back he had a look and noticed i had a different sports cat :confused: and thinks there is a possibility its been remapped and suggested i get it onto the rolling road to find out what’s going on

This really isn’t what i need at the moment :( Any more suggestions
 
I thought the standard test for the MAF sensor was to let the car idle, then unplug the MAF sensor, if the car stalls the MAF was working, if it carries on running, it's on it's way out?

That check takes about 30 seconds.

If the car carries on running after the maf has been disconnected then the ECU has already discounted the MAF as a bad signal
To do that it has to have failed completely and is in no way "on its way out"

A bad MAF signal can just simply be a different voltage reading but still be a "legtimate" reading and not throw any sort of CEL light, and unplugging it would still cause the car to stall.

So effectively telling you sweet F all.
 
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