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AMD - How To Overclock The Official Way Using Afterburner + Step By Step Overclocking Guide + Comple

Thanks Matt. Ive just turned crossfire off and my frames have easily doubled! Silky smooth,.
Arma 2 OA running 35fps with xfire enabled 60-120fps disabled?! WTF?
 
Thanks Matt. Ive just turned crossfire off and my frames have easily doubled! Silky smooth,.
Arma 2 OA running 35fps with xfire enabled 60-120fps disabled?! WTF?

Could be an issue with that game then, but regardless your cpu will be bottlenecked by 2x7970's at 1080p. Try the 13.6 beta drivers when you get a chance.
 
Just thought I'd sign up to thank OP for a great guide :)

And the obligatory couple of questions - I've got an MSI TF III 7950 OC Boost on a 7970 card (so 960/1250 as default @ 1.188v)

Seems I didn't necessarily win the silicone lottery with this card though, as it's only stable at 1105 CC (although I've not taken it over 1.250v in Afterburner). I've had a few teething probs with Afterburner and (I think) CCC conflicting (followed the guide and also applied the MSI AB Patch to stop a bit of screen jitter - have reinstalled/driver wiped CCC and AB a couple of times). Temps are all good for both chip and vram (in the mid 50's).

Question is - monitoring in GPU-Z it seems there's a fair amount of v-droop (CV not getting above 1.164v on a 1.206v setting in AB) ASIC's 64.6%. However (and I'm not sure if I should be worried by this - excuse the noobness) the VDDC current (amps) fluctuates a lot - spiking at 124.8a at times, with amp in of 6a.

Should I be worried by the fluctuating VDDC (a), and if me v-droops dropping a fair bit down is it worth me risking up to 1.3v CC to see if I can push the card further?

Cheers in advance :)
 
Which version of afterburner are you using? You don't need any patches to stop the flickering any more. Use the latest beta and official overclocking and you won't get any flickering.

Vdroop is normal i get it on my cards as well, nothing to worry about. I have low asic cards like you, they need a lot of voltage. You should be fine up to 1.3v btw. My asic's are 66 & 67% and they top out around 1150 on the core. Luckily for me this only needs 1.2v (lower after vdroop) so its not too bad.
 
Cheers for the reply Matt :)

Afterburners up to date I think - v3.0.0 beta 10, CCC 13.6 (with driver version 9.14.10.0972).

Didn't realise the patch wasn't necessary anymore - might just do a clean reinstall of CCC and Afterburner then. Been tinkering with the memory as well, seems that on stock v it'll do around the 1375 mark.

So the spiking on the VDDC ampage is ok then, or is it just GPU-Z glitching? Reason I ask is I had conflicts with GPU-Z monitoring a couple of days ago with some of the readings being at zero. Also had the clock problem with the GPU not downclocking when idle.

Ta again fella, and as you're from Norwich, a big AH-HA (bet you can't wait for Alpha Papa) ;)
 
Thanks for that I tried your method and didn't get very far I'm afraid. Standard clocks are 1000/1375 and I can get 1135/1490 completely stable all games etc through CCC.

In order to improve this for the upcoming BF4 I gave this method a go, and whilst Valley didn't crash, I got small black box artifacts appearing almost immediately. I tried upping the voltage, but still artifacts even at 1150/1500. At no pint did Valley or the PC crash and temps are fine.

What am I doing wrong ?
 
Cheers for the reply Matt :)

Afterburners up to date I think - v3.0.0 beta 10, CCC 13.6 (with driver version 9.14.10.0972).

Didn't realise the patch wasn't necessary anymore - might just do a clean reinstall of CCC and Afterburner then. Been tinkering with the memory as well, seems that on stock v it'll do around the 1375 mark.

So the spiking on the VDDC ampage is ok then, or is it just GPU-Z glitching? Reason I ask is I had conflicts with GPU-Z monitoring a couple of days ago with some of the readings being at zero. Also had the clock problem with the GPU not downclocking when idle.

Ta again fella, and as you're from Norwich, a big AH-HA (bet you can't wait for Alpha Papa) ;)

Not sure about the spiking, id image its nothing to worry about. If you use Driver Fusion in the OP it should remove the traces of that old patch file. Make sure you uninstall afterburner and don't keep users settings. Make sure to delete the program folder as well, just in case you installed the old patch files in there.

Gotta love Alan Partridge. I'm not actually from Norwich though (thank god :p) just living here. ;)

Thanks for that I tried your method and didn't get very far I'm afraid. Standard clocks are 1000/1375 and I can get 1135/1490 completely stable all games etc through CCC.

In order to improve this for the upcoming BF4 I gave this method a go, and whilst Valley didn't crash, I got small black box artifacts appearing almost immediately. I tried upping the voltage, but still artifacts even at 1150/1500. At no pint did Valley or the PC crash and temps are fine.

What am I doing wrong ?

What were the temps like? Artifacts can either be the core/vrm/vram chips getting too hot or the core has just reached its maximum. My 7950's can only do 1150 core before they start to produce artifacts.
 
Not sure about the spiking, id image its nothing to worry about. If you use Driver Fusion in the OP it should remove the traces of that old patch file. Make sure you uninstall afterburner and don't keep users settings. Make sure to delete the program folder as well, just in case you installed the old patch files in there.

Gotta love Alan Partridge. I'm not actually from Norwich though (thank god :p) just living here. ;)

Cheers Matt - will do a clean install and see what I can get the card up to.

I feel your pain - I'm a northerner stuck in Bury St Edmunds at the mo... :p
 
Well, tried out 3.0v @ 1202mhz CC - stable in 3dMark11 and Valley/Heaven. V-droop sinks it to around 1.26v.

Sadly though, been using MWO beta to test it out and around 50% of games results in a crash (black screen, audio still present). Maybe it's the bad coding of MWO so might be worthwhile trying out in other games?
 
Well, tried out 3.0v @ 1202mhz CC - stable in 3dMark11 and Valley/Heaven. V-droop sinks it to around 1.26v.

Sadly though, been using MWO beta to test it out and around 50% of games results in a crash (black screen, audio still present). Maybe it's the bad coding of MWO so might be worthwhile trying out in other games?

3.0v? :eek:

Try a different game to test, but sounds like a core crash.
 
Cheers for the reply Matt :)

Afterburners up to date I think - v3.0.0 beta 10, CCC 13.6 (with driver version 9.14.10.0972).

So the spiking on the VDDC ampage is ok then, or is it just GPU-Z glitching? Reason I ask is I had conflicts with GPU-Z monitoring a couple of days ago with some of the readings being at zero. Also had the clock problem with the GPU not downclocking when idle.

;)

I got this spiking when i upgraded to 13.6, theyre not a glitch in GPUz as it shows it in all monitoring progs, im thinking theyre not working well with sum bioses, i just ran driver fusion again and went back to 13.4, it sorted it. Ill wait for hte next beta i think.
 
*cough* meant to type 1.3v ;)

I got this spiking when i upgraded to 13.6, theyre not a glitch in GPUz as it shows it in all monitoring progs, im thinking theyre not working well with sum bioses, i just ran driver fusion again and went back to 13.4, it sorted it. Ill wait for hte next beta i think.

I presume you both have Boost Bios cards, 7950's?? Well if you do you can always try flashing this bios. Its a non boost bios with a stock voltage of 1.187v and default clocks of 1070/1500. So you will get much lower temps than with the boost bios which is 1.25v.

I just wrote a guide out for someone else in another thread but ill copy it here should you want to try it. If you want lower stock clocks then i can provide different one from the HIS 7950 Bios thread by ICP.


You might want to write this down... :p

You need to create a bootable usb stick.

1. Download and install the USB disk format tool here.

2. Download the Windows98 system files here.

3. Create a folder called Win98boot on your desktop, extract the files from step 2 into the folder.

4. Plug in your usb stick. Launch the USB disk format tool. Copy these settings, then click format. You need to select quick format, tick dos startup and select the Win98 folder, like ive done below.

TsVVMvN.jpg

5. Click start, then ok and it should do it.

6. Download atiflash. Extract it onto the usb stick.

7. Download the HIS7950.rom bios file. Cut and paste it into the usb stick.

8. If you've done everything correctly your usb stick folder contents should look like this.

nD7zzVf.jpg

9. Make sure all gpu's in your pc are switched onto bios 1.

s2JqQ2Q.jpg

10. Uninstall gpu drivers and any overclocking apps. Do not keep settings delete everything.

11. Restart your pc. Before you here the beep keep tapping F8. Boot from the usb stick.

12. You should be at dos prompt. Type atiflash -i to get the adapter number for both your gpu's. Typically it will be 0 and 1, unless you have a gpu in a third pci-e slot. You need the adapter number to tell it which gpu to flash.

13. To flash gpu 1 type atiflash -p -f 0 his7950.rom and hit enter.

Wait for it to finish. It will prompt you to restart but before we do that we need to flash the second gpu as well.

Now do the second gpu (if you have one)

Type atiflash -p -f 1 his7950.rom

Once that has completed and you get a notification saying you can restart press Ctrl+Alt+Delete to restart your pc.

All going well you should get a display and boot back into windows. Now you can reinstall fresh new drivers etc. Boost voltage and boost clock is disabled, your card thinks its a non boost card from now on in and you have the option to select 50% power setting as standard with every driver install.

If something goes wrong and you get no display from the cards after flashing the bios. Turn the pc off and flick both cards bios switch to position 2 to use the stock backup bios. Turn the pc back on and all will be ok.

Good luck. :cool:
 
Mines not a boost card just a standard 1.18v 900/1250, ive had a few betas not work well with this card, 13.3 locked my card on max volts all the time, had to skip that beta also, all the official drivers have worked ok so far though. I would moan but this card is such a good clocker that im happy sticking with it.
 
Nay bother. I've done it so many times now i don't even worry about bricking a card any more. Plus ive always found that you can un brick it by flashing the old bios back anyway. (always make a back up)
 
Sound advice, these dual bioses are a godsend, i remember having a Epox 8rda Mobo where i had to keep 2 spare bioses cause it used to corrupt them so often.
 
Cheers Matt- you read my mind on that one as bios flashing was me next q.

Done a fair old amount of flashing back in my modding days - not on GPU's though. 'Scuse the ignorance, but flashing the HIS bios (onto bios block 1) will give me a bit more bang for the buck on mhz/v levels and reduce heat? I'm guessing though that if my card can't do 1202mhz on 1.30v flashing this bios won't give me more headroom to make 1202mhz stable as it'll be my chip?

And a final q (promise) - is it worth flashing a 7970 bios to my 7950 as my pcb's a 7970?

Ta again :)
 
Cheers Matt- you read my mind on that one as bios flashing was me next q.

Done a fair old amount of flashing back in my modding days - not on GPU's though. 'Scuse the ignorance, but flashing the HIS bios (onto bios block 1) will give me a bit more bang for the buck on mhz/v levels and reduce heat? I'm guessing though that if my card can't do 1202mhz on 1.30v flashing this bios won't give me more headroom to make 1202mhz stable as it'll be my chip?

And a final q (promise) - is it worth flashing a 7970 bios to my 7950 as my pcb's a 7970?

Ta again :)

As you don't have a HIS boost card you'er probably better off asking the OP of this thread to create you one.

All you need to do is give him the bios and tell him the clocks you want and that you want it to be non boost.

Try and find out what you card requires to be stable at 1050/1500 and tell the thread OP and he will create you one. That's where we got the non boost his bios from.

The his bios might not work with yours as you have a msi card and the memory timings might be different. Didn't think of that initially when i made the suggestion.

The bios probably won't make your card a better clocker, but it will bring temps down and take away the annoying boost element and high boost voltage giving you full control, as it should be.

You could try flashing a msi 7970 twin frozr bios to your card, don't know if it will work or not. Just take a backup and reflash the old one if you get problems.
 
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