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AMD Zen 2 (Ryzen 3000) - *** NO COMPETITOR HINTING ***

That will be an illegitimate key that will eventually get blacklisted by Microsoft, usually after a motherboard change. No matter what the sites tell you, they are not legit.

Strange, as I upgraded my whole system with one of those keys. Well for the cost just buy one each mobo change. Eventually get blacklisted...........I haven't heard of anyone doing so as yet.
 
Anyone else using a 3900X with a Gigabyte X370 board? I'm having issues trying to get it stable with my K7 board but no matter what I do, it randomly restarts after a short while, whether on idle or load. Even did a fresh install of Windows and cleared CMOS to reset BIOS with the bare minimum hardware but still the same thing. This is with the latest F50a BIOS based on 1.0.0.4 B. Temps are fine on both CPU and VRM so no idea what's causing it. Placing my 1600X back in and it's rock solid stable.

I've seen people even running the 3950X without issues on the same board so I'm completely baffled on what's causing the restarts.
 
Strange, as I upgraded my whole system with one of those keys. Well for the cost just buy one each mobo change. Eventually get blacklisted...........I haven't heard of anyone doing so as yet.

Yep, never had an issue on any PC in over 10 years. currently running 3 PCs in office with cheap keys (OEM is my understanding), my current rig is using the same one I had on a totally different build. Never heard of anyone else having issues either. In fact I doubt sites like Guru3d would advertise these cheap keys if there were known issues.
 
using Balanced power plan may help with high idle temps. Also many Zen2 users are reporting high idle, which is a monitoring software side being incompatible with quick boost algorithm.


Single thread load spiking to 80 seems about right to me.
Are you certain that shutdown on full load is caused by temperature? It feels like VRM/power delivery thing.

If you have time, experiment in prime95 gradually increasing number of workers. See how temperatures and power consumption (in hwinfo) change. See if you hit the limit on either

Well I did see it hit the 95C limit in Ryzen Master a split second before it powered off so I assumed it was a thermal shutdown.

I've tried reducing the VCORE down ... anything under 1.35V it doesn't boot at .. if I leave it at auto it's over 1.5

Will try Prime 95 again and work my way up, see what the results are like. And I got my model of heatsink mixed up in my head - it's actually a Noctua NH-U12S.

For some reason I need to uninstall / reinstall Ryzen Master after every reboot which is a bit annoying, as temps reported by other programs don't seem to be accurate.
 
Saying that I am now informed how they work.

MSI has been amazing. I wouldn't touch ASUS from previous experiences and I actually found Asrock to be better even though I'm sure they own them.

MSI only for me now. I thought they were bad because they don't have as many updates but they tend to do 1 update and do it right unless it's a beta BIOS use at your own risk.
Unless they sell you a board with a dead CPU socket. :(
Swapped for ASUS. Not an issue since.
 
Well I did see it hit the 95C limit in Ryzen Master a split second before it powered off so I assumed it was a thermal shutdown.

I've tried reducing the VCORE down ... anything under 1.35V it doesn't boot at .. if I leave it at auto it's over 1.5

Will try Prime 95 again and work my way up, see what the results are like. And I got my model of heatsink mixed up in my head - it's actually a Noctua NH-U12S.

For some reason I need to uninstall / reinstall Ryzen Master after every reboot which is a bit annoying, as temps reported by other programs don't seem to be accurate.

Yah, 1.35v is kinda low. Try 1.4v. Buildziod did a review on the mosfets of that board around the 9:50 mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9t6LP9glKmc
 
Well I did see it hit the 95C limit in Ryzen Master a split second before it powered off so I assumed it was a thermal shutdown.

I've tried reducing the VCORE down ... anything under 1.35V it doesn't boot at .. if I leave it at auto it's over 1.5

Will try Prime 95 again and work my way up, see what the results are like. And I got my model of heatsink mixed up in my head - it's actually a Noctua NH-U12S.

For some reason I need to uninstall / reinstall Ryzen Master after every reboot which is a bit annoying, as temps reported by other programs don't seem to be accurate.

Right following on from this - with VCore @ 1.35V - idle pretty similar @ 50

Prime 95 (small FFT) : 1 thread - 68c, 4 threads - 86c - 8 threads - 91c

Didn't push it any further than that - I'm sure if I left 8 threads running for a while or bumped that to 10/12 I'd hit the 95c limit. I might just bump up to a heftier heatsink or get the watercooling set up again.
 
That will be an illegitimate key that will eventually get blacklisted by Microsoft, usually after a motherboard change. No matter what the sites tell you, they are not legit.
I have had the same Windows 10 Key bought from eBay now for a few years and gone through countless upgrades and it still activates fine.
 
I have had the same Windows 10 Key bought from eBay now for a few years and gone through countless upgrades and it still activates fine.
You and others can keep posting as such, however they are not legitimate; myself, others on this forum and friends have had issues after changing motherboards and they don't activate anymore. If you ring Microsoft to activate it they'll tell you it's a pirated key or whatever.
 
You and others can keep posting as such, however they are not legitimate; myself, others on this forum and friends have had issues after changing motherboards and they don't activate anymore. If you ring Microsoft to activate it they'll tell you it's a pirated key or whatever.
I don't have to phone Microsoft as it activates over the internet just fine. :)
 
I have to say I don't know why anyone really cares about the whole Windows 10 key thing anymore, MS don't as they now make their money from taking your data and selling it, the more people using it the better.

You can still happily upgrade an old Windows 7 key if you have any lying around, and apparently that was supposed to end in 2016! :)
 
Until it doesn't, which may happen.
My keys did this when swapping motherboards. I just used the tedious activate-over-the-phone method. When asked how many times I'd used the key before, I just entered 0. Worked fine for my rig and my wife's.

Definitely grey market but it's still far cheaper to buy a new key every time you swap your motherboard than it is to buy a full retail one. :p
 
You and others can keep posting as such, however they are not legitimate; myself, others on this forum and friends have had issues after changing motherboards and they don't activate anymore. If you ring Microsoft to activate it they'll tell you it's a pirated key or whatever.

Re keys

There's two types of key available, that's why. The cheaper OEM keys like the ones online you can't change the mobo on unless it's the same mobo model. They are registered to one pc only. They are designed for pre built systems like the ones from ocuk. The more expensive full versions don't have this issue. You buy once, and it's yours on any system. On the cheap OEM keys you can still however change GPU, CPU and RAM etc

I'm still using a Windows 7 OEM key now on Windows 10 that's seen the same motherboard twice, a different GPU 3 times, HDD to SSD, RAM change and so on.
 
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Anyone else using a 3900X with a Gigabyte X370 board? I'm having issues trying to get it stable with my K7 board but no matter what I do, it randomly restarts after a short while, whether on idle or load. Even did a fresh install of Windows and cleared CMOS to reset BIOS with the bare minimum hardware but still the same thing. This is with the latest F50a BIOS based on 1.0.0.4 B. Temps are fine on both CPU and VRM so no idea what's causing it. Placing my 1600X back in and it's rock solid stable.

I've seen people even running the 3950X without issues on the same board so I'm completely baffled on what's causing the restarts.

You do have this issue at stock settings without even XMP set? Have you followed the steps before upgrading to F50a? You should have had upgraded to F31 before F50a.
Otherwise try to do it now. Downgrade to F31 then upgrade to F50a
 
Re keys

There's two types of key available, that's why. The cheaper OEM keys like the ones online you can't change the mobo on unless it's the same mobo model. They are registered to one pc only. They are designed for pre built systems like the ones from ocuk. The more expensive full versions don't have this issue. You buy once, and it's yours on any system. On the cheap OEM keys you can still however change GPU, CPU and RAM etc

I'm still using a Windows 7 OEM key now on Windows 10 that's seen the same motherboard twice, a different GPU 3 times, HDD to SSD, RAM change and so on.

Yep, 100% spot on. I have a Win 7 Ultimate Retail key that acts differently, because it's a retail key i can install on any mobo using WIN 10 but can only have it on one mobo at a time and have to de-register the previous mobo.
 
Re keys

There's two types of key available, that's why. The cheaper OEM keys like the ones online you can't change the mobo on unless it's the same mobo model. They are registered to one pc only. They are designed for pre built systems like the ones from ocuk. The more expensive full versions don't have this issue. You buy once, and it's yours on any system. On the cheap OEM keys you can still however change GPU, CPU and RAM etc

I'm still using a Windows 7 OEM key now on Windows 10 that's seen the same motherboard twice, a different GPU 3 times, HDD to SSD, RAM change and so on.
You say this but I have activated Windows 10 countless times using the same key, that’s including changing motherboards a few times between gigabyte, asus and MSI. It was an OEM key from eBay. My luck may run out soon enough at which point I’ll buy another £5 key.
 
You do have this issue at stock settings without even XMP set? Have you followed the steps before upgrading to F50a? You should have had upgraded to F31 before F50a.
Otherwise try to do it now. Downgrade to F31 then upgrade to F50a

I did the F31 upgrade, then the EC FW update then to F40 when it was released. This was then updated to F42d when ABBA came out but held off changing the CPU since people were reporting BIOS settings being forgotten on cold boots. I did F50a back in December when I first attempted the CPU upgrade. And yes, I tried the RAM at the stock settings with XMP off. I even tried overvolting a little to see if it helps.

I might be tempted to wait for another update, for some reason when I was fiddling with the BIOS compared to when using it with the 1600X, it doesn't feel as smooth to navigate around. Tried reflashing it as well but it still felt odd.
 
I did the F31 upgrade, then the EC FW update then to F40 when it was released. This was then updated to F42d when ABBA came out but held off changing the CPU since people were reporting BIOS settings being forgotten on cold boots. I did F50a back in December when I first attempted the CPU upgrade. And yes, I tried the RAM at the stock settings with XMP off. I even tried overvolting a little to see if it helps.

I might be tempted to wait for another update, for some reason when I was fiddling with the BIOS compared to when using it with the 1600X, it doesn't feel as smooth to navigate around. Tried reflashing it as well but it still felt odd.

You do have forced gen 3.0 pci3 on the X370 board and not left it Auto or tried 4.0 yes? Some have reported issues in relation to this with the Ryzen 3000 series.
 
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