You have a 3700x and are asking if a 5800X is NEEDED for gaming? How can you be a member since 2006 and still ask stuff like this?
Of course you don't need it, just buy it if you want it.
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AMD Zen 3 (5000 Series), rumored 17% IPC gain.
- Thread starter AStaley
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Of course you don't need it, just buy it if you want it.
What infinity fabric are you running Matt? 1800?It's setup as intake (pulling in fresh air) to help low CPU temperatures. My 3950X appears to be a decent sample and so to achieve the best frequencies i have intake and positive pressure to keep the dust out. Seems to do the GPU no harm either as it gets plenty of cool air.
1800Mhz mate. I wasn't able to get much higher fully stable, or at least what i believed to be fully stable. I was getting the odd WHEA error in HWINFO64, but the system did appear to be stable at 1833/1866/1900Mhz. Perhaps with lots of tuning and higher VDDSOC voltages i may have got there, but it didn't seem worth the hassle. Instead i focused on tuning my memory as tightly as possible at 3600CL14.
I'm sort of in the same boat. Have an Odyssey+ (may upgrade to Reverb G2) and mainly do sim racing and flight sims in VR. Many of these titles are limited by single thread performance, so interested to see what gains people get.
I keep flip flopping between CPU, GPU upgrade, both or nothing - what I have now is really good but the urge to have the latest and greatest and to spend is there!
Yeah doesnt help that each board manufacturer has its own terminology for essential voltages for overclocking. IOD is the one that gets your IF clock higher, CCD generally only needs to be raised to stay within its tolerance range for IOD not for "real" stability reasons. I run MSI and Gigabyte, both are labelled differently. With an Asus board in the box on my table too I'm no doubt going to start confusing myself soon as well as others!
lol that chip just gets better and better. You could've sold that for double what you paid easy, if not more. I know people who have binned through over £15k of 3950x's and not got one that good. That's a tray of 30 in case anyone's wondering...
Sounds good form your results so far! I have 3600 CL16 so I guess this will be fine for a 5900x with only small gains by tightening things further on Zen3. Only 2 days to go...
That's crazy, maybe it will help me get a decent price when i put it up for sale on the MM, might use your quote.lol that chip just gets better and better. You could've sold that for double what you paid easy, if not more. I know people who have binned through over £15k of 3950x's and not got one that good. That's a tray of 30 in case anyone's wondering...
Am sure it will due to the IPC improvements.
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Yeah doesnt help that each board manufacturer has its own terminology for essential voltages for overclocking. IOD is the one that gets your IF clock higher, CCD generally only needs to be raised to stay within its tolerance range for IOD not for "real" stability reasons. I run MSI and Gigabyte, both are labelled differently. With an Asus board in the box on my table too I'm no doubt going to start confusing myself soon as well as others!
Ok, thanks a lot, never understood the difference, so basically I can lower my vDDG CCD now a bit if I wish. Do those 3733 settings look reasonable then, its all auto except for the Ram timings and ram voltage
The higher tier Zen2 are still objectively powerful CPU's and 4k you don't see much benefit from the extra CPU grunt. If I had a 3800x there is no way I would be upgrading to Zen3 unless I managed to sell it for a really good price.
Yeah nothing scary there at all, you're at default volts for sub 3600mhz memory speed. At 3600mhz Memory 1:1 Auto values set 1.15 vSOC / 1.1 vDDG IOD / 0.95 vDDG CCD in the AMD Overclocking section of bios. Sub 2800mhz defaults are 1.1v/0.95v/0.8v, 2866mhz to 3200mhz sets 1.1v/1.05v/0.95v.
vDDP I leave at Auto, but I don't think either of my boards give any labelled live reading of it so I can't tell you what that Auto value is at various speeds or if it even changes automatically. Default I think is 0.9v, so its not like you running 1v is bad. Personally I've never needed to touch vDDP anyway, I think I actually dropped it as low as 0.7v messing around with the 3600 I got at launch to see if it got me any power budget back but it seemingly made no difference at all...
My 3600x is the only chip I've had to get vDDG CCD in the sweet spot for - that thing doesn't even like posting reliably above 1800IF until the vDDG voltages are spot on, but once they are its rock solid stable right up to the 1900IF wall
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Yeah nothing scary there at all, you're at default volts for sub 3600mhz memory speed. At 3600mhz Memory 1:1 Auto values set 1.15 vSOC / 1.1 vDDG IOD / 0.95 vDDG CCD in the AMD Overclocking section of bios. Sub 2800mhz defaults are 1.1v/0.95v/0.8v, 2866mhz to 3200mhz sets 1.1v/1.05v/0.95v.
vDDP I leave at Auto, but I don't think either of my boards give any labelled live reading of it so I can't tell you what that Auto value is at various speeds or if it even changes automatically. Default I think is 0.9v, so its not like you running 1v is bad. Personally I've never needed to touch vDDP anyway, I think I actually dropped it as low as 0.7v messing around with the 3600 I got at launch to see if it got me any power budget back but it seemingly made no difference at all...
My 3600x is the only chip I've had to get vDDG CCD in the sweet spot for - that thing doesn't even like posting reliably above 1800IF until the vDDG voltages are spot on, but once they are its rock solid stable right up to the 1900IF wall
Alright sweet, yea my Giga board auto settings are a bit lower now on newer bios. 3533 is vSoc 1.08, Vddp 0.95, Vddg 1.0, 3733 settings as above auto, i'll leave all that now seems to be working. Might have to retest memory timings now with increased memory compatibility on newer bios, got sucked into tweaking again when familiarising myself again ready for 5000 series, but not bothering upgrading now. Thanks again.
It’s hard to say right now as we don’t have independent reviews across a broad range of games.
It will be interesting to see how the 5000 series CPU’s and 6000 series graphics cards perform. Having both the CPU and GPU running on a coherent fabric with direct access and shared resources could be game changing.
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Be interesting to see what % is possible when pairing them up, though I'm sure we've heard heard this in the past with zen 1???
So you've got six intake fans and one exhaust? I might change mine up and do some testing... currently got 2 x 140mm intake at the front, 1 x 140mm exhaust at the front, and an Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 in the roof set for exhaust. I appreciate the advantage of positive pressure for keeping dust out, but I thought a huge in/out imbalance was not good.
That's crazy, maybe it will help me get a decent price when i put it up for sale on the MM, might use your quote.
Sadly I think that horse may have pretty much bolted dude, you should still get a good price though its still worth more than the average 3950x to the right person. I don't think many people on here chase HWBot points I'm afraid, facebook marketplace may net you a better price (but take due diligence regards receiving payment).
Give it a go Stu, i always wondered what i would see if i set it to exhaust so will be interested to see what changes you experience in temps.
I think my setup would be even better if i had a blower style GPU.
I can definitely feel warm air exiting out the rear though, so it appears to be working.
Aye, i know i'll be taking a big loss on the sale price but i knew this when i bought it back in June.
We’ve had heterogeneous systems linked by various bus types before, but this is something different.
Exciting times ahead I think.
Positive pressure also helps force the heat out and helps prevent any hot spots recirculating warm air. You almost always want more intake than exhaust for optimum system cooling, the only exception I can think of beyond weird case layouts would be a fully liquid cooled build. Also depending on your components and overclock you may find better performance having any radiators as intake rather than exhaust - system temps go up a few degrees but whatever is liquid cooled would go down. Its very much a per system thing as to which layout works best, it can even vary depending on what room your PC is in and what time of day you use it. I have 3 x 180mm intake on my rads and 1 x 120mm exhaust (though Im at sub 1000rpm and am using a TT X1 case with perforated side and floor panels so the positive pressure isn't as high as you would expect in reality).
I probably won't test in the short term as a Zen upgrade is imminent (from a Xeon x5650!!!), but I'll let you know when I get there. I've got a Tomahawk x570 sat next to me, so waiting for Thursday, though also need to get other bits. My GTX1070 will have to keep performing until gfx card stock gets sorted out.
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