Ah OK yeah that's going to be tight! Might have to put it somewhere else. Mine won't have the screen either.
One last thing about the fans. They don't make any ticking or annoying noises at low rpm do they?
Cheers mate.
Aqua Computer Aquaero Owners thread
- Thread starter DataVampire
- Start date
Ah OK yeah that's going to be tight! Might have to put it somewhere else. Mine won't have the screen either.
One last thing about the fans. They don't make any ticking or annoying noises at low rpm do they?
Cheers mate.
Yeah I had planned on putting it behind the acrylic panel. Got abot 30mm ish there. Got some decent space next to the power supply as that is offset to the front of the case.
Nothing I can hear and I'm obsessive about getting my PC quiet and cool.
Brilliant cheer's.
I think that the crimping is well above my level of ability.
I presume I can leave the pumps powered by the molex and connect the the other connector to th AE6 and control its speed by that?
I am able to hide the cables so that is not an issue
n.b would this work
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2345&XTCsid=uab5husmserramfk7kvve6ok9kng11ql
I presume I can leave the pumps powered by the molex and connect the the other connector to th AE6 and control its speed by that?
I am able to hide the cables so that is not an issue
n.b would this work
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2345&XTCsid=uab5husmserramfk7kvve6ok9kng11ql
Last edited:
Soldato
Don't sell yourself short; crimping is just stripping the wire, slotting the pin into the crimper, inserting the wire and pushing the handles.
That said, it's by no means a necessity, it just makes it look a bit tidier. If you run the power from a molex and plug the 'fan' plug into the Aquaero, it'll run fine...it just means you have two sets of wires to two different places from each of two pumps. Perfectly functional, just not pretty.
That lead would work for a non-PWM pump but it's not ideal for a PWM pump. There are only three pins in the fan connectors on it so that would be -,+,T (Ground, 12V, Tacho) whereas a 4-pin PWM fan plug would be -,+,T,P. It would work but it would only let you do voltage control rather than PWM. Again, that ought to work but you may not get as wide a range or control as with PWM - at least that's the theory.
That said, it's by no means a necessity, it just makes it look a bit tidier. If you run the power from a molex and plug the 'fan' plug into the Aquaero, it'll run fine...it just means you have two sets of wires to two different places from each of two pumps. Perfectly functional, just not pretty.
That lead would work for a non-PWM pump but it's not ideal for a PWM pump. There are only three pins in the fan connectors on it so that would be -,+,T (Ground, 12V, Tacho) whereas a 4-pin PWM fan plug would be -,+,T,P. It would work but it would only let you do voltage control rather than PWM. Again, that ought to work but you may not get as wide a range or control as with PWM - at least that's the theory.
Soldato
It comes with some - 4, I think - of the stick-on thermistor type. If you want to use those, you'll want to get a roll of Kapton tape (or a cheap Chinese knock-off). It's the yellow tape that looks bronze on a roll. Goes on, stays on, doesn't leave a residue and doesn't go goes and fall off when it gets hot.
If you're after a G1/4 screw in jobby the Aqua Computer ones are your best bet as they're definitely compatible. There is a pass-through one here: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua...-internal-external-thread-g1-4-wc-120-aq.html
They also do an end stop style one but OCUK don't seem to stock it. I believe they are a standard 10K ohm thermistor but the docs helpfully but unsurprisingly don't let on.
If you're after a G1/4 screw in jobby the Aqua Computer ones are your best bet as they're definitely compatible. There is a pass-through one here: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua...-internal-external-thread-g1-4-wc-120-aq.html
They also do an end stop style one but OCUK don't seem to stock it. I believe they are a standard 10K ohm thermistor but the docs helpfully but unsurprisingly don't let on.
And stick them to what? Was just going to hide one or 2 up inside the case for just case temps maybe 1 in the roof above the top rad. Surly to get the most accurate water temp I need a sensor that touches the water.
Yeah seen the pass through one but I want the end one instead. Seen the end one elsewhere but just though I'd order one from overclockers, free postage and all that
Soldato
Depends. I got paranoid initially and stuck them to loads of things before I realised they didn't get hot enough to worry about. The only thing I stick with is a probe attached to the pump's heatsink as I can then ramp up the front fan to cool it on a curve - can get quite toasty if you've got your fans set for quiet otherwise.
Frankly if you stuck one to the rad it wouldn't be that far off coolant temp. The pass through and bung types don't actually make direct contact with the coolant. The fitting part (pass through or bung) does and then there's essentially a stick on probe either wrapped around it or inserted into it (depending on type) with some thermal grease. So a probe taped to a rad isn't that far different. Also worth noting two things:
1. The temperature at different parts of the loop isn't going to be very different - it equalises out after a bit.
2. The accuracy of the probes is within a few degrees. Good for keeping an eye on things but two different sensors aren't going to tally up even on the same thing.
Frankly if you stuck one to the rad it wouldn't be that far off coolant temp. The pass through and bung types don't actually make direct contact with the coolant. The fitting part (pass through or bung) does and then there's essentially a stick on probe either wrapped around it or inserted into it (depending on type) with some thermal grease. So a probe taped to a rad isn't that far different. Also worth noting two things:
1. The temperature at different parts of the loop isn't going to be very different - it equalises out after a bit.
2. The accuracy of the probes is within a few degrees. Good for keeping an eye on things but two different sensors aren't going to tally up even on the same thing.
If you go into the Aquaero software, set up a profile for each fan or set of fans in the fan controller settings, you go into manual setup and plot a graph profile of fan speed against to a value - presumably a water temperature sensor reading input. This allows you to say 'when water temp hits x, put fan speed at y'. So I have a few banks of fans mounted to three different radiators, and they kick in at specific increases in water temp. The idea being to run as few fans as possible to minimise noise, at any given moment.
Need some help guys.
Just got it all running but my Industrial noctuas buzz when using a splitter.
3 on the top rad buzz with a 3 way splitter,
2 on the front rad buzz with a 2 way splitter,
The single airflow has no buzz at all.
There on separate channels. 3 on 1, 2 on 1 and 1 on 1.
Any ideas?
Edit: Just tested it with 2 of my bequiet silent wings 3 and there silent on a 2 way splitter. FFS
Just got it all running but my Industrial noctuas buzz when using a splitter.
3 on the top rad buzz with a 3 way splitter,
2 on the front rad buzz with a 2 way splitter,
The single airflow has no buzz at all.
There on separate channels. 3 on 1, 2 on 1 and 1 on 1.
Any ideas?
Edit: Just tested it with 2 of my bequiet silent wings 3 and there silent on a 2 way splitter. FFS
Last edited:
Soldato
Mcthommo: What R-Type said. No reason a fan curve has to be curved. You can have them stepped. You can even set the temperature the fans start at if you want them off below a certain temp. The one thing you've got to watch out for is that if the temperature settles around the step, it'll annoyingly change speed up and down. A small slope instead of a sharp step should sort that out.
Bone9: Check that one of the affected fans runs quietly without the splitter. Check what your channels are set as. They default to power control which is voltage control. You can change them to PWM if necessary.
Are they 3-pin or 4-pin fans and what are the splitters?
Have the splitters got all wires connected? If so, they shouldn't have (tacho wire should only be connected to one fan) but that shouldn't result in buzzing, just a randomly fluctuating speed reading - unless they're trying to react to a very rapidly changing speed (either voltage or PWM).
Bone9: Check that one of the affected fans runs quietly without the splitter. Check what your channels are set as. They default to power control which is voltage control. You can change them to PWM if necessary.
Are they 3-pin or 4-pin fans and what are the splitters?
Have the splitters got all wires connected? If so, they shouldn't have (tacho wire should only be connected to one fan) but that shouldn't result in buzzing, just a randomly fluctuating speed reading - unless they're trying to react to a very rapidly changing speed (either voltage or PWM).
With one fan connected the buzz is less I'm sure but it still buzzes. The channels are set up as pwm so I can run them at 500rpm.
The splitters are made by EK and have only one tacho wire connected. The speed readings are constant and perfect.
They are set up using the constant manual control so I could test.
Looks like the fans will have to go back
Soldato
Try setting them to 'Power Control' rather than PWM just to see if it's the PWM that's making them buzz. They shouldn't but I have heard of it before.
I've tried swapping between volts and pwm. It is quieter on volts but then I can only go down to 800 odd rpm.