ASUS P8P67 PRO owners - what BIOS version did yours come with

I received my P8P67 Pro with 0402 BIOS and first thing I did was update to 1053 beta.

The AutoOC does go through a number of posts where the mobo is tinkering with settings to get what it thinks is a good OC. If you let it run enough it eventually posts, it is however not very good in terms of what it achieves.

Mine was dieing but once I bumped the DIMM voltage from 1.5v to 1.65v I had no issues with my ram at 2133MHz.

I'm running my 2600k at 4.6GHz and 1.25 volts. It idles at 32deg C and on load circa 47 deg C which I'm happy with since the case needs quite a lot of cable management work yet. Not bad for an SLI setup crammed into a Lian-Li PC-A05nb.

Overall very happy with it. Lots of tinkering required still.

Hopefully Asus will keep BIOS updates coming to play with.
 
Just a quick update on my problem. It seems to be resolved.

I updated the BIOS to the latest full release one. I adjusted the memory voltage to 1.65 and set it at 1600. All other settings were correct.

Since doing this I haven't had any problems, thats been 5 hours use with no crashing or freezing.

If your getting this motherboard here are a couple of things to do and check:-

1) Go to Asus site and download latest BIOS - http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=HMMvTCuBcZLfu2YL

Extract the ROM file onto a USB stick and this way you can update the BIOS to latest version.

2) Check the DRAM voltage in the BIOS and make sure it is correct. The board seems to set all memory at 1066 or 1333. If you have faster RAM then you need to change this to correct setting and increase the DRAM voltage to 1.65 for most memory running higher than 1333.

As mentored above, the Auto Overclock didn't work for me either.

Hope this is of some use.

Cheers
John
 
*****FIXED - DAMAGED USB CONNECTOR ON KEYBOARD PLUG*


Out of curiosity are you guys with the pro's using USB keyboards and did you have any issues with it being detected during POST? also did you have to configure the board at all for it?

I'm having an issue with mine and is discussed in another Thread.
 
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Just a quick update on my problem. It seems to be resolved.

I updated the BIOS to the latest full release one. I adjusted the memory voltage to 1.65 and set it at 1600. All other settings were correct.

Glad to hear you got that sorted. Odd that it didn't recognise the correct voltage itself but at least its working!
 
The AutoOC does go through a number of posts where the mobo is tinkering with settings to get what it thinks is a good OC. If you let it run enough it eventually posts, it is however not very good in terms of what it achieves.

Perhaps then I've been too hasty in saying it doesn't work. I've left it for maybe ten reboots at most before getting worried and pulling the plug. I'm happy with what I've set up manually so I'm unlikely to go back and try it now.

Just to help others out - how many reboots should we expect though?
 
Thanks for that coney - I've just ordered the Asus as it seems to be the best board out there. Hopefully I'll not have any problems :)
 
How many reboots did you let it do? I think I may have been too impatient / worried to let it finish the cycle - it can only have done ten reboots at most.

About ten or so I believe. You do realise that the TPU jumper needs to be enabled for the AutoOC to work don't you?
 
Thanks for that coney - I've just ordered the Asus as it seems to be the best board out there. Hopefully I'll not have any problems :)

You probably will, but amongst us all we'll get there eventually.

Some new features on this board so here more than ever, RTFM springs to mind!

For instance the first 30mins where spent scratching heads about all the reboots until realising the default mem settings are too low a voltage.

Keep those BIOS's coming Asus.
 
I think once Monday/Tuesday hits we might need an "official" P8P67 Stock/Pro/Deluxe/etc thread to help keep everything together.

I think that's a pretty good idea tbh, I've got mine coming on Tuesday we should definitely keep all this helpful info in one thread.
 
How many reboots did you let it do? I think I may have been too impatient / worried to let it finish the cycle - it can only have done ten reboots at most.

Mine actually crashed. Got a blue screen and a reset. I didn't notice it in the manual saying anything about having to have the TPU switch on? I was using the Windows tool not the BIOS.
 
When I got testing after build yesterday afternoon I jumped in quite quickly to overclock the CPU and since the various stability issues/crashed appeared I worked my way from scratch systematically.

A bit of background, all components are new.

PSU (750W) running ok, all rails look very good. x2 SSD's running very well in RAID 0 as system and apps drive. Scratch drive (x2 Samsung Spinpoints) running with no problem in RAID 0.

Both GTX460 running fine with SLI on or off, running stock at the mo. Some tinkering in Crysis, I'm on full HD with all maxed out and x4AA, 55fps.

CPU temps with NH-D14 are at 31 degC idle and on standard clock (3.8GHz boost) through Prime95 doesn't exceed 48 degC.

Now, the issues seem to lead to CPU, RAM, Mobo or a permutation of these.

I haven't mem tested the RAM (Patriot 2250Mhz 2 x 2Gb) but appears ok. The main issue is with BIOS picking out wrong voltage, on all tests set to 1.65v. The BIOS downclocks any RAM exceeding 2133MHz to this speed. Interestingly, if set to auto the speed is recognised as 535MHz (x4 ratio) with tighter timings than rated. If set to 2133 Mhz, it runs at 1066 (x2 ratio) at the rated timings. Outcome: on Auto it doesn't seem to have any stability issues. When defined as 2133 in the BIOS, it isn't fully stable. Testing ongoing. In all, the RAM seems to be ok but will mem test.

All of this in BIOS 1003. That is where my systematic analysis has got to at the mo.

Prior to that I tried 1053 and 1003, in a mix of tests overclocking the CPU. I've had 4.6GHz quite stable running various benches and Crysis. It has crashed randomly in various benches though and hence I started from scratch looking at detail.

Interestingly, depending on how it was clocked the speedstep (even though on) would not kick in at the chip would sit at idle on full multiplier.

The general feel is that these are BIOS issues. With everything on auto except DIMM voltage it's stable. The cpu is certainly very sensitive to voltage and current limits. Interestingly, when increasing the volts and multiplier, it seems to clock better with less volts above certain speeds. Only put 1.26 volts in at the mo. Still tinkering with DIGI VRM to see how it responds. I'll report further findings.

Also, is the fan speed management working for peeps? My CPU ones are stuck on full and can't get them to drop.
 
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Interesting development.

Some of the crashes / stability issues made the mouse drag and the system virtually unresponsive. Just did it after my previous post. Managed to kick task manager up and force shutdown and realised it was my old HDD's RAID 0 that Explorer was struggling with at the time of the event.

Prompted my memory to a year or so back when the same HDDs but in a x4 RAID 0 generated a similar problem, due to excess temp. Seems one of them may be on the way out. I've disconnected them now. Testing on going.
 
After a few more hours testing it is clear that rev. 1053 has lingering issues, I get lots of stability issues with it.

On rev. 1003 it seems to get confused as the turbo multiplier only kicks up to 3500Mhz under full load when left at Auto in the BIOS. Forced to 38 multiplier and all ok.

Ran lots of benches, fully stable. After some confusion with CPUz reporting of ratios, the memory does in fact default to 1066Mhz on Auto, but set at 2133Mhz it all works fine.

I'm going to leave it running some number crunching whilst I'm oot, see how things go.

Overall the message is BIOS is buggy still but board is good. I'll venture with overcloking again later on, now that I have a good base going forward.
 
After reading this thread, I may just stick to my current system until they have ironed out the issues you guys are having. Think i'll just leave the parts I ordered in their boxes until then.
 
Mine actually crashed. Got a blue screen and a reset. I didn't notice it in the manual saying anything about having to have the TPU switch on? I was using the Windows tool not the BIOS.

No I couldn't find anything in the manual about having the TPU switch on either. I think I tried most combinations, so it was certainly off for some attempts. On the whole it just seems easier and better to OC manually.
 
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